Just looking for info on what are the better valve covers to use on my Speedster.... Thanks
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Just looking for info on what are the better valve covers to use on my Speedster.... Thanks
Survey says... STOCK!
May not be pretty, but they work the best so I am told. Besides, pretty doesn't count since you can't see 'em anyway.
May not be pretty, but they work the best so I am told. Besides, pretty doesn't count since you can't see 'em anyway.
Was just wondering about the aluminum finned, if they would run cooler??
Nope.
and they leak.
and they leak.
You can always paint up the stock ones real purty, basic black isn't in stone. Check out Cory's nice job.
I've been running the finnned aluminum covers for 20+ years - never leaked - other things do but they don't. Just need to seal them well.
do you just use the cork gasket Bruce - or do you add some sort of sealant (like Permatex)?
For years and years, I used aluminum valve covers without leaks. It's not a secret but it works, clean the cylinder head, valve cover mounting area thoroughly. Clean the valve cover mating surface thoroughly. Apply a thin coat of contact cement to the gasket area on the valve cover and to one side of the cork gasket.
Let them sit for about 5 minutes then glue the gasket to the valve cover and mount the cover.
Let them sit for about 5 minutes then glue the gasket to the valve cover and mount the cover.
Stock Valve Covers are the Best!!! No leaks!!!
Aloha, Kawika
Aloha, Kawika
Notice that Larry mentions the use of CORK valve cover gaskets.
They seem to work a bit better than the black, composite (rubberized) versions.
And even though above I recommend stock covers and bale wires to others, I, too, use the finned aluminum bolt-on covers (ah-HA! He doth not do what he preacheth! - - No, this time I don't.)
It took me a couple of years to find peaceful co-existance with them, and I went through about a dozen rubberized cover gaskets before I ran out and went back to those so-called "inferior" cork ones. I don't glue them on, as Larry does, but simply put a thin film of thick automotive grease on them, stick them into the cover and put them on. Most of the time, they don't leak a whit. If they do, it's probably because I missed some crud on the mating surfaces when half-fast cleaning them. the brown cork gaskets seem to crush better than the black rubber ones and seal better. I usually grab a set of 10 at a whack whenever I go to a VW show or swap meet.
For the hold-down bolts (which are 5/16" diameter) I use a piece of 5/16" ID fuel hose and carefully cut a couple of pieces about 1/4"-3/8" thick to make big O-rings, slip them onto the bolt and tighten them down. The hose squishes and makes a big, mushy o-ring seal and they don't leak, either.
Still, for the occasional, weekend wrench-puller who is horrified at any drips on his/her floor, I still think stock covers and bales is the way to go.
They seem to work a bit better than the black, composite (rubberized) versions.
And even though above I recommend stock covers and bale wires to others, I, too, use the finned aluminum bolt-on covers (ah-HA! He doth not do what he preacheth! - - No, this time I don't.)
It took me a couple of years to find peaceful co-existance with them, and I went through about a dozen rubberized cover gaskets before I ran out and went back to those so-called "inferior" cork ones. I don't glue them on, as Larry does, but simply put a thin film of thick automotive grease on them, stick them into the cover and put them on. Most of the time, they don't leak a whit. If they do, it's probably because I missed some crud on the mating surfaces when half-fast cleaning them. the brown cork gaskets seem to crush better than the black rubber ones and seal better. I usually grab a set of 10 at a whack whenever I go to a VW show or swap meet.
For the hold-down bolts (which are 5/16" diameter) I use a piece of 5/16" ID fuel hose and carefully cut a couple of pieces about 1/4"-3/8" thick to make big O-rings, slip them onto the bolt and tighten them down. The hose squishes and makes a big, mushy o-ring seal and they don't leak, either.
Still, for the occasional, weekend wrench-puller who is horrified at any drips on his/her floor, I still think stock covers and bales is the way to go.
I see no value in screwing with the valve covers on these cars. It's not like a V8 where you open the hood and the valve covers are the first thing you see. Unless you are Cory, or driving a Spyder, no one will see them unless your car is on a lift or your lying on the ground. There's plenty to fiddle with on these cars as it is. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
With all my aircooled stuff have had every type of valve cover and as the German's designed it, stock... rocks !
Mango,
Anything similar to Permatex will work, follow the steps Larry suggests above. The o-rings for the bolts are available at the hardware store, i.e. ACE Hardware, etc. Cork gaskets are cheap so I have a few extra sets available if needed.
Anything similar to Permatex will work, follow the steps Larry suggests above. The o-rings for the bolts are available at the hardware store, i.e. ACE Hardware, etc. Cork gaskets are cheap so I have a few extra sets available if needed.
Thanks for all the info, I was curious if the alum finned would run a bit cooler, guess not, thanks again
Here's some FYI,,, Rough aluminum valve covers DO provide some oil cooling primarily because aluminum transfer heat better than steel (the degree of cooling is minimal) In addition, the rough aluminum has more surface area than polished covers. Therefore, polished aluminum valve covers generally retain heat. Prepared properly, aluminum covers won't leak. The biggest mistake most make is over tightening them.
Heavy paint on stock VW valve covers retain heat. A thin coat of flat black paint helps to dissipate heat whereas enamal tends to retain heat.
As has been beaten to death, since you can't see them, why bother changing them to aluminum unless you're looking for every degree of heat dissipation you can get.
Heavy paint on stock VW valve covers retain heat. A thin coat of flat black paint helps to dissipate heat whereas enamal tends to retain heat.
As has been beaten to death, since you can't see them, why bother changing them to aluminum unless you're looking for every degree of heat dissipation you can get.
Gordon -- I like your idea of using pieces of hose for o-rings on the valve cover bolts. I'm in the middle of replacing my heads right now and I'll try your trick when the valve covers go back on.