Valve covers

Check this for some tips:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/for...ewtopic.php?t=428961

And check this on PP 3:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/for...hp?p=5183796#5183796

Good tips in there..

hey todd you dont change the oil through the valve covers....... gotcha!!! I dont use anything, but depending on the valvecovers I may take a sharp center punch and add a few divots to the valve cover to hold the gasket better, a smooth serface on both sides can leed to a gasket slide, the punch marks will raise up a portion and give it some teeth to hold the gadgets in place. I have the "c" channell valve covers on my stuff(CB perf& empi.rev masters has them now too and bugpoop gets thiers they just started carrying from revmasters.) those bolt on not cips, Ive never used the clip on style.

How would one change to bolt on?  What would they bolt on to?  

Oh and btw that does read funny.  Changed my oil AND did a valve adjustment at the same time!  Sorry, yes Mark I understand I don't change the oil through the valve covers!

Super easy, they use the bolts that are in the heads now holding the rockers down. there is a long nut you replace the standard nut with, which leaves the new taller nut open on the top now for the valve cover bolts to go in from the outside.

If you have a crank case breather system, they sell them with the breathers installed too.

Cheers, THOM

http://i154.photobucket.com/al..._bucket/DSC01292.jpg

This shows the long nuts installed, they line up with the rocker bolts....

There have been several folks that have switched to bolt on only to regret it.  My builder says stick with the stock.

IF I HAD TO PICK. aluminum with fins and bails No bolts..  Simply spray the gasket with  3M  sticky glue and stick them to the valve covers wait 15 mins. while you proceed to adjust valves and or change oil..  no slippage ( Normal procedure)

I'll second that.

why because  they didnt install them corectly.Ive seen way more oe ones leek&seep than most others.the "C" chanels ones are real nice but you need to do a little work to the valve cover to be sure there isant a sharp edge that can cut into the gasket& dont over tighten them either. the only drips mine have is from a watter leek, not oil.

Todd, I have been using CB C channel valve covers for 8 years now:

http://www.cbperformance.com/P...sp?ProductCode=1702d

I couldn't use stock covers due to high-lift rockers. Seems that the biggest complaint against them is leakage but it's usually because of over tightening. That and, as Mark said, uneven surfaces from casting. I tighten them by hand to snug then a half turn with a wrench. I finish up by race-wiring the bolts. No leaks and I have been on the same set of gaskets for four years and 8 or so valve adjustments.

Ive never changed my gaskets. If you serface the valve covers on something flat with 180 then 320 grit to get the serface even then raidus the edge si it dosent have a sharp edge on the inside & the outside edges you will mhave no sealing or cutting gasket issues. the cb covers dont have places for the vents, but the empi valve covers do and the empi ones are just a bit taller, other than that you cant tell the differeance between either if you dont read the name in the oval. I do remachine the outsides of mine to make them look better and give them a brushed aluminum look then alodine them&add a coat of clear.(OCD kicken in)

Had a local vw guy come over today.  It's not the valve covers...it's the push rod tubes.  New set coming this week and will have them installed...  Working with Roland Rascon who is always available to chat and he is sending me some Jaycee spring loaded ones...  should be fairly quick and painless...car is still for sale so I can get moving on my spyder!

"It's not the valve covers...it's the push rod tubes..."

---BWAAA!

Life's a dance ain't it

yup, thats why I will not use the vw type pushrod tubes.(and there a real pain in the ass)

  hopefuly he will adjust the valves corectly when he does it..or you can.

He checked the valves and they were good to go.  

Now what's involved in changing out faulty push rod tubes ?

Get the repair type  that have a spring and only fix the leaky one.

 I would not pull a  engine and a head . If I did not have to  find a shop with a lift  and a mechanic that has done it before  or some one that will let do it on their shop lift.    It pretty easy to put on. but you have to be careful around the others.   loosen up the rocker on that push rod so you can remove it     stick a 12 inch 3/8 drive extension into the pushrod hole and pry upward so the tube kinks in the middle and it should fall out.   Assemble the spring loaded compression type tube   put new seals on the ends.. the tricky part is compressing  it while you set it in place  again be careful around the others  they are pretty fragile and easy to bend or puncture  ether could make them leak.