valve covers?

Aluminum, the gaskets block heat tranfer.

Yes, the gaskets block heat transfer, but the flung oil off the rockers running down the insides of the covers does allow them to radiate a fair amount of heat (enough that part of the "cold weather equipment kit" is a pair of triple chromed valve covers). I would think either material (stainless or aluminum) would do the job adequately, but since they're not built the same I don't know which would actually be more efficient. My first choice would be the old Scat stamped aluminum covers (they're the lightest of the bunch), but I haven't seen a pair at a swap meet in a while _{(if anyone has a pair in good shape I'll buy them off you)}.

I'm thinking if an engine runs hot with one type of valve cover, then another type ain't gonna make much difference and that the problem lies somewhere else.

Will, are you looking to replicate the 356 look this time around?

I had an epiphany this morning. I'm pretty sure I can pinpoint the exact point in time when my little choo-choo went around the bend regarding my Speedster.

That would be when I agonized over my own valve-cover decision. Valve-covers on a Speedster are buried so far down under the car as to be essentially invisible, so aesthetic considerations are moot.

A valve-cover has two functions-- keeping the oil in the engine, and not getting in the way of the rockers. There are opposing camps on each side of a great skirmish regarding everything related to valve-covers. Bales or bolts. Steel or Aluminum. Vented or not vented. All are presented as life and death decisions that must be made, so that the rest of the world wide web can determine just exactly what sort of man you are.

At the end of the day on which I lost my mind, I panicked and just bought the most expensive thing available (ahem, CSPs) and hoped for the best. They look kind've cool down there, under my blank-off plates, above my J-pipes. Sometimes I just jack my car up and lay under it, that I might gaze askance in awestruck wonder at the awesomeness of my very own  $150 chunks of aluminum which nobody can see unless they join me in repose, lying supine down there on the concrete.

They don't interfere with the valvetrain, and they don't leak (unless the bolt o-ring gets torn, which has never happened, except for every time I've ever changed the oil), so I guess they do their job.

You may make a different decision than I did, which is significant because it will tell the world exactly what kind of man you are, Will. Are you with us or against us? Lives hang in the balance.

There is no middle ground.

Well I opted for the custom valve cover thing but the nuts would continually loosen and they leaked. They were difficult to maneuver off for valve adjustments. I had to have my exhaust customized to get the passenger side to clear. But all that aside damn they looked so cool when I was under the car working on it! I say "looked" because I went back to stock covers.

Mitch, yeah, same everything other than heads, cam, lifters and rocker-arms...and valve covers.

Stan, exactly, who sees them once the engines in...only me when I'm changing the oil or adjusting the valves.

I had almost forgotten about hi-lift rocker arms hitting the stock steel valve covers!  So many choices for owners with the Madness and time for valve cover gazing. Don't forget the BIG cork vs rubber valve cover gasket debate.

WOLFGANG posted:

Don't forget the BIG cork vs rubber valve cover gasket debate.

I know, right?!?

And we cannot forget, chrome or no chrome. The fate of civilization rests in our hands.

Funny all the air cooled hype and lore over the years - guess folks wanting to make a buck.

This is good write up on VW making their territory-

http://www.vw-resource.com/oil_leakage.html

It states "we recommend that you stick with the stock black valve covers to help keep the engine cool. Oil temperature has been found to run 20-30 degrees cooler with the black valve covers." Some even debate flat vs shiny black paints impact - heaven forbid powder coating gets thrown into the fight. Chrome always seems to get a thumb down.

I've got a pair of T4 914 valve covers that must have 1/8" of rust on them - afraid to blast it off for fear they will then just strain the oil.  Now how does a valve cover (or oil pan on other cars) rust out?

Sacto Mitch posted:

 

I'm thinking if an engine runs hot with one type of valve cover, then another type ain't gonna make much difference and that the problem lies somewhere else.

Will, are you looking to replicate the 356 look this time around?

 

I don't think the fact that an engine has chrome valve covers on it is going to seal it's fate, but remember, chrome is a good insulator. Quite often chrome valve covers come with a chrome shroud, chrome cylinder covers (again, not in themselves engine killers, but they don't radiate heat like the stock pieces do, so the cooling air is now tasked with carrying more heat), a loose spark plug seal or 2, maybe a torn (or missing) engine compartment seal, unplugged holes in the rear breastplate when with dual carbs, missing sled and industrial tins, possibly restricted air intake into the engine compartment (and who knows what else). It's the attention to detail thing- it more often than not signals that the car owner is more concerned with how it looks rather than how it runs and isn't up on what it really takes for an aircooled VW engine (especially if it's making more than stock power) to survive.

BTW- Gene Berg once documented that a single torn spark plug seal on an otherwise proper engine install in a bug raised oil temps 8? 10? degrees; again, not in itself an engine killer, but if it's only 1 of several issues (and every little "thing" adds a few degrees) you can see why all these details are so important. Attention to detail can make or break an engine install...Al

PS- Yeah, Greg, I can never figure that one out either

It's safe to say, then, that Al falls in the "no chrome" camp.

Good thing, too-- chrome valve covers are proven to cause cancer, impotence, birth defects, mentally and physically delayed development, bursitis, gingivitis, diverticulitis, and arthritis.

They may look snappy, but they are death to your engines, your children, your women, and your way of life.

Commies like chrome. ISIS too. 

Don't be that guy.

Ok, Stan, that's the laugh of the day!

PS- You forgot STD's...

I'm considering going to plexiglass so I can see what's really going on in there. That, a camera connected to a small screen on the dash ought to keep me mesmerized for hours.

Panhandle Bob posted:

I'm considering going to plexiglass so I can see what's really going on in there. That, a camera connected to a small screen on the dash ought to keep me mesmerized for hours.

...as you rear-end Stan's car and totally ruin his beautiful valve covers...

To rear end Stan's car I'd have to be able to catch him. I'm fast, but I'm not that fast.

"That, and a camera connected to a small screen on the dash ought to keep me mesmerized for hours."

Nope, don't need that.  I've got this little roundy-round thing right behind the steering wheel that has a needle on it that whips around all over the place.  I just watch THAT instead.  (I wonder what it's for??)

Here goes my wisdom on this subject. The CSP are nice, the CB bolt on one with the grooved rubber seal work ok to. But the best set are the OE stamped steel ones. I am not talking about  new steel ones but some old ones that when holding in your hand you can feel the difference in comparison to a steel aftermarket replacement steel one. Stock wire bale rather than some cheap aftermarket chrome one. 

I use the Revmaster C-channel valve covers:

http://www.revmasterautomotive.com/valve-train-parts 

You must smooth and slightly round the edges or they will cut the gaskets.

Also, I use a very small, 1/4 drive, torque wrench so I don't over tighten them.

The bolts are drilled so you can safety wire them on.