so is there an issue with bumping your head?hmm...so thats whats rong with ME.
ALB, I had a couple of nice oatmeal stouts in your stead. They were brewed in one of my favorite towns (Asheville, NC) by the Highland Brewing Co., and were very tasty.
Mark- When your head hits something hard enough that it bounces around in it's casing it's not so good...
Lane- Sound delicious! If I ever get out that way you'll have to introduce me.
try to kep something nice soft &warm pressed up agnist it instead.take care.
Like a puppy? 
or 2
UPDATE: Had the wheels Road Force balanced today. I haven't felt the vibration, but haven't spent much time at expressway speeds. I was told that they couldn't completely solve the problem because my sweet looking red wheels (at least some of them) are out of true. Lovely. We'll see if it's improved enough to ignore.
Haven't looked into the other issues yet. Maybe tomorrow if it's not too chilly in the garage.
The weather kept me from a decent try out of the balancing until today (sunny, low 60s). Despite the wheels apparently being out of round, it is much better - not perfect, but better. Got it up close to 80, and I never did feel anything beyond the vibration you'll see with a light car on an imperfect surface.
I'm still tweaking the brakes, and they're still pulling left. I can't swap the calipers as that would put the bleeders at the bottom, making a good bleed all but impossible. I'll keep working on it.
Originally Posted by Lane Anderson - Mt. Pleasant, SC:
I'm still tweaking the brakes, and they're still pulling left. I can't swap the calipers as that would put the bleeders at the bottom, making a good bleed all but impossible. I'll keep working on it.
Just unbolt the caliper from the bracket, hang it with the bleeder pointing up with some wire (or just have a helper hold it), and then just put some 1/4 to 3/16" thick plywood between the brake pads so you don't pop the pistons out when you step on the pedal. You may need to pry the pads apart a bit to get it back on the disk if you used plywood thinner than the disk.
Hmmm... Didn't think of that. Doh!
UPDATE 10 March: Did some adjusting and think I have the rears about as good as I can get them, but it still pulls left a bit. I verified that it's still in the rear brakes by slowing the car from ~15 with the e-brake. I know the e-brake adjustment could give me false data, but it's the best I can do. While adjusting, I noticed some grease or something on the right backing plate below the junction with the axle, indicating possible some seepage. I also thought the adjusting stars looked a bit shiny. I really, really, REALLY hope I don't have yet another leak inside the drum.
Can I remove the drum and re-install it after checking without having to replace seals and O-rings? That seal on both sides has been the bane of my existence for over a year now.
I'm really thinking about giving rear disks another try, but I'll have to get some exhaust work done to get them to fit.
"Can I remove the drum and re-install it after checking without having to replace seals and O-rings?"
Sure - no problem. Even if you got a complete axle seal kit (o-rings, paper gasket and seal) the whole replacement process can't take more than 45 minutes including moving the shoes around to get at it. Just to check what's going on, though, all you'll need is a 36mm socket, a 2-foot bat handle and a 4-6 foot piece of pipe to get the castle nut off. I have a 4-foot long piece of 3/8" thick by 2-1/2" wide steel with holes drilled for the lug bolts to use as leverage to get the castle nut off and back on. Don't forget - 250 foot pounds or better.
Get the discs, Lane. They're just easier.
Gordon - I've done the whole deal before, and I couldn't get it to stop leaking. I wound up having to get my local VW mechanic (who is now semi-retired) to re-do it for me. I really, really, REALLY don't want to have to do it a third time within a year.
Stan - I'd love the disks, but had to go back to drums because of a conflict between the Sidewinder muffler and the caliper. I didn't have time to re-engineer the exhaust before Carlisle last year. Doing it again requires me to spend more money - not an easy thing with my wife and finance manager currently not working.
Good luck getting that castle nut loose. I split a craftsman 36mm socket try to break one loose, I'm glad the socket split before my breaker bar busted. 
Lane, I stick a feeler gauge into the shoe adjuster hole and adjust the star wheel until it grabs the feeler gauge, I then adjust the star wheel until the feeler gauge lets loose then move to the next shoe on that wheel. Use a gauge that when adjusted, allows the drum the to spin free, its not any particular size rather the fact that you are setting up both sides of the system equally.
I bought a very nice torque wrench the length of a baseball from Harbor Freight. It's important to get those 36mm castle nuts tigtened to 250 Ft lbs. Not expensive and nice to have on hand.
Nolan wrote: " Good luck getting that castle nut loose. I split a craftsman 36mm socket try to break one loose, I'm glad the socket split before my breaker bar busted. "
Many years ago, I, too, broke a Craftsman 36mm 1/2" drive socket trying to get a rear axle nut off. I took it back to Sears and this nice, retired guy was at the counter when I asked for a replacement. He got me a new one and then asked how I broke mine. I told him we had a 24" breaker bar on it with a 6 foot piece of pipe on that and my 245 pound brother was jumping up and down on the bar end and the socket just let go.
He then tells me to wait a second and goes and gets a 36mm impact socket and gives me that instead. I still have that socket, after forty years, and used it on a LOT of cars. That old guy really got it. Now that I'm an old guy, I'm passing that sort of stuff on to my kids and younger neighbors.