Anyone out there with knowledge of how a Vintage Speedster is wired? Unfortunately Vintage’s supplied wiring diagrams are vague about the wiring to the fuse panel. I have a recent factory-wired car and want to make sure that the fuse panel has been done correctly as I’m having issues with the turn signals.
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Hello Wambat,
What issues are you having with your turn signals? Let me know and I can most likely walk you through it. The turn signals really don't go through the fuse box. The main power does to the turn signal but then it splits to each corner.
Let me know and we'll do out best to get you signalling again.
Alex
Plus, there was a recent thread on here (in the past three months) that showed, in detail, what each fuse did on the Vintage fuse panel.
I don't have it handy, but there is a search function on this site...........The little spyglass at the top of this window.
90% of the electrical faults on a Vintage build are poor wire connections.
Vintage Motorcars - Alex posted:Hello Wambat,
What issues are you having with your turn signals? Let me know and I can most likely walk you through it. The turn signals really don't go through the fuse box. The main power does to the turn signal but then it splits to each corner.
Let me know and we'll do out best to get you signalling again.
Alex
Alex,
Thank you so much for your kind offer.
If I understand you correctly, the turn signals are not fused at the main fuse box. Which explains why with all six fuses removed and the ignition “ON” the signals still work. However, there must be a fuse somewhere to protect this circuit--but where is it?
I also noticed that with fuse #4 removed the dashboard turn-signal indicator lights up dimly when the ignition switch is turned “ON” and the turn signals are not in use.
And, to make things interesting, fuse #4 has a hanging and unused yellow wire with a female bullet connector. Any idea what this might be for?
As a side note here is how my fuse box is wired. Does this sound right?
Top Row (hard to see so might not be correct)
#1) red
#2) red jumped from #1
#3) two blacks
#4) one black
#5) two blues
#6) two blues
Bottom row (easy to see so definitely correct)
#1) red
#2) red
#3) two blacks
#4) blue, green, and yellow (unused)
#5) blue
#6) two whites
Thanks again!
The #4 fuse is the one that runs power to the turn signal switch (that is the fuse for the turn signal, they are not individually fused like a Beetle).
There are a few things you need to check.
Check with a test light to see if the flasher relay has power. Should be from #3 fuse box.
Make sure all the bulbs are good and connected in each light. One bad bulb or connection or loos ground to an individual light will could cause none of them to work as it does not have enough power draw to activate the flasher relay.
There is one wire from the relay that goes to the back of the gauge (usually Blue) that is attached/piggy backed with a black wire that goes to the turn signal switch.
Check that and get back to me.
The yellow wire that has a butt connector could have been for a radio or other accessory.
This is what I have on my 2013 Kirk built VS for wiring/fuse box-- from left to right:
#1 Brake lights
#2 Lights
#3 turn signal flasher
#4 Horn & Wipers
#5 High beam
#6 Low beam
... My radio and lighter were also wired by VS .. But can't figure out if they go to the fuse box, ... I found line fuses for both... I just have not tracked down what power source they are spliced into,
i have been thinking of updating my wiring/ fuse box - during my headlight relay upgrade to try to replicate the "piece of art" fuse box/panel Seduction Motorsports builds...
It's so pretty!!!... I like how all the relays are centralized... Wished someone sold the blank fuse box like theirs which could be easily transplanted into my VS... I have bren looking at fabricating one out of aluminum & tracking down the various components... But I suck at electrical work! My fear is being able to get the wiring right once I take it apart.
I need some garage time to get this sorted. But kids have been keeping me busy!
Cheers,
luis
Vintage Motorcars - Alex posted:The #4 fuse is the one that runs power to the turn signal switch (that is the fuse for the turn signal, they are not individually fused like a Beetle).
There are a few things you need to check.
Check with a test light to see if the flasher relay has power. Should be from #3 fuse box.
Make sure all the bulbs are good and connected in each light. One bad bulb or connection or loos ground to an individual light will could cause none of them to work as it does not have enough power draw to activate the flasher relay.
There is one wire from the relay that goes to the back of the gauge (usually Blue) that is attached/piggy backed with a black wire that goes to the turn signal switch.
Check that and get back to me.
The yellow wire that has a butt connector could have been for a radio or other accessory.
Alex,
The turn signals work just fine. The relay has power and all the connections are okay. But that's not my problem.
The issue is that I can't find the fuse that powers and protects the turn-signal circuit. As you suggest, the #4 fuse should be the one. But it isn't. I can remove the #4 fuse, or all six fuses, and the signals still work just fine. I can't find an inline fuse either.
The one odd thing about the #4 fuse is that when it is removed the dashboard turn-signal indicator glows dimly when the ignition switch is turned “ON”--but without the turn-signals being used.
It's puzzling. Thanks again
Lfepardo posted:This is what I have on my 2013 Kirk built VS for wiring/fuse box-- from left to right:
#1 Brake lights
#2 Lights
#3 turn signal flasher
#4 Horn & Wipers
#5 High beam
#6 Low beam... My radio and lighter were also wired by VS .. But can't figure out if they go to the fuse box, ... I found line fuses for both... I just have not tracked down what power source they are spliced into,
i have been thinking of updating my wiring/ fuse box - during my headlight relay upgrade to try to replicate the "piece of art" fuse box/panel Seduction Motorsports builds...
It's so pretty!!!... I like how all the relays are centralized... Wished someone sold the blank fuse box like theirs which could be easily transplanted into my VS... I have bren looking at fabricating one out of aluminum & tracking down the various components... But I suck at electrical work! My fear is being able to get the wiring right once I take it apart.
I need some garage time to get this sorted. But kids have been keeping me busy!
Cheers,
luis
Now that's the way it should be. You can find most of the components at a boat supply outfit such as West Marine or through waytekwire.com
Wombat, I did some quick checks on my 2013 VS and found pretty much what you did.
The wire colors for the bottom row of fusebox leads match yours. I also have a short, unused lead from #4. My flashers work with any of the fuses pulled, and pulling #4 makes the turn signal dash indicator light.
My fuses control mainly what Luis (LFEPARDO) explains, although my horn is on #3, not #4.
I couldn't easily examine the top side of the fusebox. If the flasher takes its power from #3, it must be from the 'battery' side, not the fused side, as, again, the flashers work with the fuse pulled.
It wouldn't surprise me if the flashers were unfused.
VS cuts a number of corners in their builds, including failing to wire the headlights through proper relays. That, combined with cheap, replica headlight switches has caused failures for many folks here, myself included. If you're looking to fix something that will likely cause trouble down the road, you might start there.
Some fun wriggling into position to check all those wires, huh? No problem for an anorexic midget, but a normal American male...
Anyway, I’m not sure if I’m glad that your similar results mean that I’m not crazy and that mine isn’t the only car that is screwed up, or that I’m pissed that Vintage knowingly builds them this way.
Now the question is do we leave the wiring as it is with the signal circuit unprotected (and who knows what else done incorrectly)? Yours has gotten by without catching fire so maybe things are just fine the way they are. Or do we rewire and play it safe?
To start, do you know of anyone with a real wiring diagram? The ones that Kirk sent me would be filed under "fiction" in a library.
Wombat, a wise man once said, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", but I don't think he ever owned a Vintage Speedster.
I have, in fact, experienced fire in the course of my ownership. At least, I think it was fire. By the time I got my head under the dash, only smoke was curling out of the headlight switch. Being the cautious sort, I replaced the switch and did some rewiring anyway.
While I'm surprised to discover the turn signals aren't fused (and you're right, they should be), I don't know of anyone here who's had them fail. But headlight switch failure is common.
Here's a simple test. Sitting in the driver's seat with the headlights off, put a finger on the back of the headlight switch (under the dash). Turn the headlights on and see if the switch gets too hot to touch. If it does, it will likely fail pretty soon. You might first see if it gets too hot with just the parking lights on. The problem with my switch was the circuit that dims the instrument lights. In any case, it's a good idea to add relays to handle the heavy current to the headlights, moving that load off of the switch.
And no, I don't know of any reliable wiring diagram for the VS. It's pretty simple, though, and you can figure most things out without one.
Wombat,
Did VS send you a wiring diagram? If so, would you mind sharing... Even as a starting point that would be great!
many thanks
I have a set, but it's primitive and not all that accurate--hence my issues with the fuses.
Where should I send it?
Could you post it on this forum? Just take a picture with your phone/iPad and add as an attachment.
any reference would be great... I have just been making my own diagrams... But any reference could help. I'm horrible at electrical!
million thanks.
I'd like to post the wiring diagram in the "library" section under "Resources" but not sure how. While I'm trying to figure this out, which may take a while, give me your email and I'll get the files to you asap.
Also, where did you buy your replacement non-Chinese light switch and what was the model number?
Wombat: Send me the files and I'll get them posted, too.
Lord knows - they have to be better than the 8 pages of hand scribbled notes I have on my "custom" wiring job 
gn
Wombat,
I sent you a private message. I can put them in the library for you.
Thanks!!
I purchased my replacement switch at Wolfsburg West... Less plastic than the Chinese one that came installed... But I'm sure everything is now made in China.
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/c...st.cfm?ID=211941531E
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/c...st.cfm?ID=113941531C
I ordered both... Used the second one, looked just like to the old Chinese one, and I didn't have to think about what connected to what.
my email is Lfepardo at gmail dot com
cheers
Luis, did the dash knob and escutcheon from your VS thread onto the new switch OK, or did you have to replace them, too?
Luis,
I'll email you the diagrams. For others, they should appear in the "Library" sometime next week.
Yes, I was able to recycle the knob/escucheron...
Thank you again for the email.
Cheers
Glad you got the diagrams. All I ask in return is that you make available the final "real" wiring diagram that you eventually come up with. Good Luck!
Will do. It may take a few weeks... I just need some garage time around the kids schedule. Need to get the car back on the road... Currently gauges and headlights are out waiting for some love.
cheers
Someone here posted a fuse/relay panel that was top notch. I searched but could not find it.
TR may have been the one, my memory fails me...
I use either the color coded VS, requires your own relay(s) and flasher at $150.00 or a universal harness with relay and flasher installed that has wiring designation every 7" on each wire at $64.00
Both do require that you fabricate your own gauge & switch wiring and some grounds.
crhemi (Bill) posted:Someone here posted a fuse/relay panel that was top notch. I searched but could not find it.
TR may have been the one, my memory fails me...
You may mean this one:
Kind of overkill, but a nice piece of work.
And someone else (maybe Gordon?) pulled the relay panel from a late model car in a junkyard and just used what he needed on that. Most automotive relays (for horn, headlights, etc.) are electrically identical (usually rated at 20 or 30 amps).
The junkyard relay panel had top quality components, was compact and neatly laid out, and was dirt cheap.
I'll have to post up our Version 2 fuse panel we use now. I see someone posted Version 1. Makes it super easy to navigate and clean under the dash. I'll try to remember to take some pictures tomorrow.
Did Alex get you all sorted out?
-Daniel
Daniel,
Didn't hear from Alex, but no big deal. Can't find the photo of the Version #1 panel; please send what you can about Version #2. Are you selling the panel? If so please send info.
wombat posted:Daniel,
Didn't hear from Alex, but no big deal. Can't find the photo of the Version #1 panel; please send what you can about Version #2. Are you selling the panel? If so please send info.
The photo of the Version 1 panel is 3 posts up under Sacto Mitch's post. But I'll put it here for you as well:
