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Eddy, No actualy when you do not need to be a pro welder. We also took that into account when designing the kits. We have made so many points of contact, that you can be a novice welder and as long as you put some type of weld in the areas we ask you to, it will be three times as strong as it needs to be.....

As for us doing the job, we do them all the time and would be glad to assist you in installing one for you.
More pictures... Please ask any questions you may have...

The shifter base is for a Porsche 915 shifter, and the brackets to mount the 915 gear box....

Also the notches to the frame horns are to clear the cv's, and the "Garage" under the pan is for the 915 shift rod.

Other then that the shock towers are just to show how much needs to be trimmed.

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By all means don't take my comments personal. The point is that you are trying to achieve a better handling car . So it appears you are going to push it more with the engineered hardware you are installing. Your traction bar system is nice. The frame horns are questionable.Though you used 1/8" plate for the inserts the weak link will be where you joined it together. The frame horns will still see a torque transfer even with you stiffy. So over time the frame horns metal will fatigue and schnnnappp!!! And when you snap a frame horn get ready for a potential snapped axle and a sudden turn of the back end.
It my earlier years of building sprint car chassis you would never notch a chassis tube.
Joe,

While I understand your concerns with the frame horn notches, I disagree with your comments. Yes I agree with the fact you should never notch a race car chassis tubing unless you done something to reinforce the notched area. On a street car I disagree. With the "stiffy" our computer models show that is will take more then 6 tons to bend the rear end to the point of failure. We have spent a great deal of time in development on our chassis system, and given the weight or the car, tire size, and forces that can be made by the standard power plants that can be installed in this vehicle. We are more then confident that it will not fail.

As far as offending, none taken. I thank you for making your comments and welcome any others.

6 ton bending stress is impressive. I assume you are only calulating the bending stress of your hardware based on angles,tubing thickness/ diameter, tensile strength and material grade. I would be interested in what factors you used for the vw engine support horns, your insert materal and the weld electrode used. Will you modeling software do a fatigue cycling analysis? Sorry if I ask alot of questions. I tend to do that at work especially when it involves any sort of structure that may see external forces.
Joe,

I whish I could answer your detailed questions in complete detail, however I am not one of the engineers that worked on this project, nor am I familar with the programs they used. I'm not even if I did I could go into details on a public forum. Sorry I could not be more help. I will say this our test vehicle has logged more then 30,000 miles to date and at the last inspection there were no signs of frame horn cracking. Also notching frame horns on VWs has been done for decades by the off road guys. They actualy have high impact stress going on on landing and just basic moving at speed across off road terain, and they do not have frame horns failing on them.
We notch frames all the time on pickup trucks (as well as body-on-frame cars). Even on 1 ton dually pickups.

Notch them, reinforce the notch - they work well, even for vehicles that tow trailers. The towing is a big point because if you take a ton dually and notch 4 or 5 inches out of the frame over the axles, then 3 or 4 feet further back, put a full sized trailer, you have a tremendous load in the frame area over the axle.

We've also notched uni-body cars for suspension, engine mods, etc.

We've never had one fail. Not even a crack, even when towing 30 foot trailers. Do it right and you'll be fine. Conversely - if you can't do it well - don't do it at all...

angela
I went down to pick up Kevins old Speedy seats I bought from him at Mendeola's where he runs the suspension side and the car building operation last night,WOW!

He was very kind to show me their suspension front and back as well as kafer systems, I also got to go for a ride in an awesome 57 oval called "Speedwell Oval" he built from the ground up. It was like being shot out of a canon!
He drove it down a beat up truck road and the suspension tho low in stance and both of us in it (I go in the upper 200's) it rode smooth and like it was on rails. Turning was unbelievable and when we got on a good stretch of road, I've never had a ride like that in even the Porsches I've driven.

It's really worth a trip down there to talk with Kevin, he's the real deal, very informed and for a change doesn't talk down to you as he explains the technology and science behind it although with his knowledge and experience he could.

When he is finished with his Speedster, sitting on that dream chassis,it will be a work of art like his many other builds,very detailed ,very unique and a driving experience like no other.

Thanks Kevin! I'll be down again for sure!
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