Vintage Speed Exhaust

I like their exhaust system a lot, but I'm not sure it fits easily under a replica body.  A while back someone on this forum ordered one and could not get it to fit.  He ended up selling it.  

If I didn't want a merged system, with heat, I'd purchase one of their exhaust systems.

I recently ordered one of their shifters, with a couple of custom modifications.  They were awesome to deal with.

 

Here's a photo of their merged system.  I'd order one if they came with heater boxes.

 

I have the one that fits stock heater boxes.  It is well made and went in without any problems.

Is that the one specially made for 356 replicas?

As far as I know it's not made for a specific model.

So yours is the one pictured but not the one I put the link to in my post? Vintage Speed does advertise one specifically made for 356 replicas.

I took "356 Replica Exhaust" to mean that it was a replica of the 356 exhaust, not that it was for 356 replicas.  Anyway, it fit just fine.

Cole, what size/hp is your engine? 

It's a 1915 from VS.  I've had an oil overheating problem and asked Kirk who built it and he didn't know.  He said that around that time (2/2010) they were changing suppliers and he was not sure.

 

Make sure you increase intake of cool fresh air to the engine compartment and that the compartment is sealed towards the back. You don't want any of the hot air expelled to be recirculated. Some people open up holes in the firewall while some others (like I do) scoop fresh air from the torsion bar area and direct it with a duct to the engine compartment by opening up a hole in the front engine tin and conecting it to the hose coming from the scoop below. Also try to keep your compression ratio on the conservative side and don't lean out your gas/air mixture on your carb(s). Also, using a vacuum advance distributor (like the ones that came originally on VW engines) helps keep temperatures down as compared to centrifugal advance such as the Bosch .009 or its modern day copies. Another suggestion is to use genuine OEM VW dog house fan housing and engine tin and the OEM thermostat/vane system.

Also forgot; make sure you use a good oil; I use monograde 40W because I have the car in tropical weather and that's what the VW manual recommends. The recommendation changes depending on your location.

Remember that when VW made those recommendations multi-grade was considered "unnecessary" and didn't fit in with the "economy car" persona the VW had. Until 40w gets close to operating temperature it may be producing great pressure, but it's not flowing through the bearings properly. A multi-grade (5 or 10w-30 or 10w40) will be lubricating bearings and carrying away heat much sooner than 40w. I'm not saying it doesn't work, there's just a better product available these days.

I use Rotella (for Diesel motors); it was recommended a few years ago because it had the zinc needed for flat tappet cams. I believe they have changed the formula to make it cleaner but unfortunately taking away from those additives. I have two bottles left of the STP four cylinder oil treatment (the red bottle; don't think it's made anymore for probably the same reasons) and I add it to the Rotella when I do my oil changes. When those bottles get used up I'll have to find an alternative.

Switched over a year ago from Brad Penn 20w-50 to Joe Gibbs DT50 15w-50 (both High Zinc) engine runs about ten degrees cooler with the DT50

Impala- You are right, Rotella has changed; with catalytic converters going on new diesels the zddp had to go. There are still a number of different oils out there that are flat tappet friendly; Valvoline, Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, Royal Purple and a number of others all have zinc rich formulations. Some are more expensive and/or harder to get than others.

That one looks nice on the outside but it looks like a stock VW muffler with bigger tailpipes. Might be a little restrictive for higher performance motors.

I used one of these, Had to modify the tailpipes a bit to fit them under the valance. Been happy with the sound and performance, If I was to use them again, I would go for ceramic coated.. I used stock heat exchangers..

 

http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDeta...roductCode=C23-35171

 

Just curious - what modifications did you make to the tailpipes?

The tail pipes came straight out the back of the pipe, I cut them off and welded a small curved pipe to drop the tailpipes down and under the rear valance. the alternative was to cut a semi circle in the bottom of the valance under the bumper.

Tell them it's for a speedster replica and they will adjust the pipes for you.

Really?  CIP1 would do that?

 

I've heard that Vintage Speed will customize their exhausts for you but didn't think that CIP1 was that kind of an outfit (not to disparage CIP1 - I've ordered a few things from them and what I received was decent quality).

 

SHRSpeedster - I noticed that the picture of CIP1's sebring exhaust on their website shows the tubes for the heat riser.  I take it you used a heat riser block-off kit or did you just clip the tubes and weld them shut?

 

Thanks guys!

Paul, perhaps the next time you display your slammed speedster you should rope it off so spectators don't stand around drooling on it.

 

Some of that spittle is corrosive!

Yes they were cut off and welded shut..  As far as the previous comment goes I dont believe CIP would do any fabrication, perhaps Vintage Speed would..

There is still zinc in Rotella but in less quanity than before

 

Alan,

Rotella is comparable cheap at WalMart. Is there such a thing as a zinc emulsion that can be added to it?

If you do a search on the net you'll find zinc additives, just how good they are I can't say...

Zinc: an engine with heavy blow-by could accumulate zinc deposits in the combustion chamber, becoming a  detonation problem.  There used to be 1,400-1,500 zinc  ppm in passenger-car motor oils, about where Rotella oil is now.  Zinc accumulation can affect ox sensors and catalytic converters.

I was referring to Vintage speed

Like I said before, the STP 4 cylinder oil treatment (the red bottle not the blue one) had it but I believe it's not made anymore. GM also had an oil supplement but I believe it suffered the same fate.

I went to Advance Auto Parts today to get some car implements and I found that the blue bottle STP Oil Additive as well as Rislone Oil Additive both have ZDDP additives (zinc) so it looks like they're easily available. Also, I believe Harley Davidson 50W oil has the ZDDP in it but I've heard it's fairly expensive. Since it's designed for air cooled motors it might just be what we need for ours.

For information on amounts to use and costs of dosing SM/SN rated oils with different zddp additives http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=220755&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=1580

 

More info on flat tappet friendly oils. The post is dated (2009) but still valuable.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1572367505-post1.html

I haven't followed this thread exactly, but it looks like the CIP exhaust (prior to the thread drift) is a little on the expensive side and maybe this is an option if you can't afford a Sidewider header, but want a little bling under your car.

 

The dual tip exhaust that is used on Vintage cars (Tri-Mill) bolts right up to the stock heater boxes and is available in black paint with chrome tips for about $130 and full silver ceramic coated with chrome tips for $170 from SoCal Imports in Long Beach.

 

I don't see it on their website, but I was just there on Friday and bought one.  They are on display in their showroom on the right wall as you walk through the front doors.  Be sure they understand that you are buying it for a Speedster replica, because the exhaust tips are lower (to clear the valence) than the one they sell for a bug.  They are also made without the heat risers.

 

FYI, SoCal Imports owns Tri-Mill as well as Engle Cams and AC Industries (the disk brake manufacturer) and they supply all the Speedster builders.

 

You can also get a pair of ceramic coated heat exchangers for $320.00.

http://www.socalautoparts.com/...-coated-p-16157.html

 

Also, I understand that SoCal is going to release their version of a Sidewinder in December, but I don't have any information on the pricing.