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Hi all,  my VS accelerator cable broke today and I've ordered a new one based on the chassis.  I have a few questions before I get my hands dirty and replace it if anyone can help please?

1) Is there a YouTube video anyone would recommend for an early 70a vw bug accelerator clutch replacement?  I've seen several and some are conflicting.

2) do the VS accelerator cables also need to be shortened like the clutch cable does?  I ask because the end of the existing cable looks to have been modified at the end which meets the engine.  The new cable has an S shaped bend at the pedal end and a straight part at the other.  Whereas the existing cable looks to have the end clipped off and tightened with a clamp.  I'm not sure if the new cable will need the clamp.  I'm not sure what to call the part which cable end fits into and gets clamped into under the current (broken) set up.

Thanks,
A
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If the new cable proves to be too long it's not a big deal to modify it. You would have to cut the rear end of the cable to a suitable length ( cut off the swaged steel rod ) and use a kit like this to install a new "rod" fitting at that suitable length.

 

I've found that a good way to cut that cable is to wrap it tightly with a minimum amount of masking tape, mark it to the correct length, get a very sharp cold chisel and whack it one time with a heavy hammer. Another easy method is to wrap the cable as above and make the cut with a fine cut off wheel in a Dremel tool.

 

http://www.mgmagicclassicmotor...e-shortening-kit-vw/

Last edited by David Stroud IM Roadster D

Alessio:

 

Remember that a Vintage Speedster is built upon an old Volkswagen chassis, using many of the same old parts.  The throttle cable is one of those parts.  Everyone just buys a VW sedan throttle cable for somewhere around 1970.  The cable is slipped, peg end first, into a tube right beside the gas pedal and simply pushed to the rear through the tube.  It's a very good idea to lube the cable with automotive grease (any type) as you're feeding it through.  Once it's all pushed through (you may have to reach behind the fan shroud on the engine to retrieve it back there as it comes through the firewall) then the "S" bend goes into the 1/8" hole on the gas peadal actuator lever - pull a little cable back out for a bending loop and just push the S end into the hole.

 

Now, on the rear and beside the transmission, the throttle cable goes through a flexible vinyl tube between the chassis and a hard metal tube that runs through the fan shroud.  Once assembled, the flexible vinyl tube should be held in place because it's slightly longer than the distance it spans and that bend keeps it in place.  The metal tube through the fan shroud is angled to point the throttle cable right towards the carburetor linkage.  When everything is assembled, pull the cable towards the rear of the car as far as possible (make sure that it pulls the gas pedal all the way back) - you should see that the cable is about a foot too long (Because a Speedster is about a foot shorter than a VW sedan).  Using the cable end adapter that David shows just above (they work great!), figure out where that end should go to mate with your throttle linkage, and then cut the cable to fit into the adapter to get you to the right length.

 

Tighten the adapter onto the cable with the set screw, tighten the adapter to the throttle linkage and you're done.

 

Should take about 30 minutes for you to finish and, yes, this is what we all have to do.

I think you can use almost any cable that has the right size loop on the pedal end. When I put my new engine in last year ,I found that the old cable was too short for the new engine. I ordered a new one, but I didn't want to wait for it so I could drive the car.  I had just replaced my garage door opener and the old one was in the corner with the chain and cable that opened the 16 foot door for 15 years. It was about 1/16 inch and 14 feet long with the right size loop on one end. It slid through the tube like a rocket and was about a foot too long, so I cut it with pliers and put a dab of JB Weld on the end. Worked fine.  The new one came eventually and it's in the tool kit as a spare, but I don't think I'll ever use it.

 

I think you could use bailing wire for a thousand miles if you had to.

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