Vintage Speedster Alternator Removal

Wasn't familiar with whether that had an internal or external regulator.  It's internal. Since alternator is a name brand and new - I wonder if its just the regulator that's FUBAR?  Appears they are easy to change compared to entire alternator and only $25.

 

Here's info from link I found:

 

from: http://www.volksparts.com/ 

"Alternators which fit the 1975-'79 VW BEETLE and SUPER BEETLE (AL82N) are of Bosch Germany and Brazilian manufacturing origin, as well as Motorola USA. While these three styles of units are totally interchangeable on the car, the Voltage Regulators are not interchangeable between the three. Until this point in time (back in 2003) only a replacement Voltage Regulator for the German production alternators has been available (p/n 0 192 052 007). Now Bosch is introducing Voltage Regulator p/n 9 190 087 003 which is a direct replacement for the Brazilian produced units. Retail price for this regulator is $23.60." 

They can be replaced with the alternator installed, just a little interference with the field brush wiring as I recall but no big deal. Finding one will probably be the only problem, but at least now you have the P/N.

I agree with Wolfgang, regulator first and running with a bad battery connection would certainly be detrimental to the regulator.

 

 

Well there's a coincidence. My alternator died last weekend and I pulled it without removing engine.....( https://www.speedsterowners.com/topic/saving-gas )

 

On a single carb engine it goes like this:

 

Take off decklid

remove coil

take out throttle cable guide

Loosten 2 bolts low down on sides of fanhousing

undo doghouse shroud

one bolt from base of doghouse

release vent flap link arm if fitted

undo alternator clamp and electrical connections

undo fan belt

wriggle out the housing

 

Its a bit of a faff but easier than pulling engine....

 

Proof:

 

 

 

Ger- What the cowling around the air intake hole in the firewall made of?

I'm going to guess, sheet metal.

 

Ted

Ger - I have the dual Kadron set-up on my VS and have replaced the alternator a couple of times without too much problem.

 

1. Remove fan belt and alternator pulley (make note of number of washers on inside of pulley halves). Be careful not to lose the woodruff key (half-moon wedge) on alternator shaft.

 

2. Loosen the alternator strap that secures the alternator to alternator/oil-filler stand. No need to remove strap after loosening, you can simply slide strap away from Alt/oil stand.

 

3. At bottom of fan shroud on both sides, remove 10mm screws that attach shroud to upper engine tins.

 

4. Remove the four (4) 10mm bolts that attach generator/fan assembly to shroud. The upper left 10mm will also allow you to move the center throttle linkage assembly away from shroud. You may need to also remove the 13mm nut that attaches the bottom of throttle linkage assembly to engine case.

 

5. You should now be able to lift the doghouse a few inches just enough to tilt and work the alternator/fan assembly from the fan shroud (doghouse).

 

6. When you remove alternator/fan assembly, check fan for trueness (doesn't wobble when you spin it), any cracks (particularly around bolt attaching fan to alternator) or broken welds and replace fan if needed.

 

7. Reverse process for re-installing.

 

Hope this is helpful  

 

Short answer is - yes.

 

I literally *Just* did this three weeks ago.

 

 

Granted, mine isn't a vintage, but what we're talking about here is really the alternator mount, the 36hp shroud, the linkage and the decklid opening. Right?

 

Follow any manner of the instructions above and you'll be golden.  It's worth noting that I've managed this even without removing the shroud see above...

 

Ted

1.5 mm rubber sheet ! The alum strip, (which is level though the pic makes it look off kilter !), holds it to the firewall sealing up any openings, and around the air intake its secured with a few self tapping screws.

 

Originally installed while the engine was in place, I'll tidy it up a little while I have access.

You twin carb guys have it easy With the  single carb you can't get to all of the alternator/fan retaining bolts, (unless you remove the carb obviously....)

You single carb guys have it easy, tune it 10 minutes or less

Dellorto guys have it pretty easy too---I haven't touched mine in 15,000 miles.

BAZINGA !

Doug:  Good and bad news for ya:

 

I just pulled my alternator/fan out because I had something rattling around in the fan shroud after I pulled the engine and turned it upside down on an engine stand.  Turned out it was a flat washer from somewhere (haven't found it's home yet).

 

I found, at least on mine, that I could NOT get the alternator/fan out easily.  After I removed the four screws holding the fan to the shroud, there was interference between the rear of the alternator and the pedestal it sits upon as you try to slide it out and up, preventing it's removal.  That's the bad news.  Maybe there is a way around this that I haven't seen, but I only found the following

 

The good news is that there are two ways to get around this:

1.  Remove the alternator pedestal and the alternator/fan as a unit.  Once you get the pedestal up off of the studs it should swing right out.  You'll need a new, louvered bottom gasket for the pedestal when you replace it.

 

2.  Remove the fan shroud (a more difficult proposition, but it can be done without pulling the engine) then remove the alternator/fan.  Don't forget to remove the thermostat bellows below the cylinders and THEN remove the shroud.

 

If you really can't get the fan out by leaving the shroud in place, I would go for option #1.

 

******EDIT******

 

I just read MUSBJIM's post up above.

 

Ignore my drivel and do what he says.  Looks like it should work better than what I suggested.

 

gn

Someone stole one of your carbs...

Wow! What great replies! Thanks to you guys, this is exactly the way a site like this is supposed to work. I am truly grateful for the time, thought and effort you guys spent with your posts. It is almost like you are there in the garage helping me. I hope I can reciprocate in some way in future posts.

Doug

Just promise lotsa beer next time and maybe the locals will show up.....

 

I'm jus' sayin'.....

Okay guys, I got the alternator off by following the tips and directions you gave. Thanks!

I do need some tips on removing the fan and the hub though. I put the unit in a vise, hub nose down, padded with some cardboard so as not to mar the hub. I gave it as much torque as I dared with a  36mm socket (which seemed a little loose) and a breaker bar. I was afraid any more and I would damage the hub and/or the keyway.

Again, thanks in advance for any advice you might give. If there was a good VW shop around I would go to them, but I am afraid they would just muck it up worse than me. Even if I get the fan off I have a feeling the hub and cooling ring behind it may be a problem.

Thanks again.

Doug

Easiest thing to do is take it to a shop and let them use their pneumatic tool(s) on it....   Just my .02...

What Leon said x2 

You know,  it's interesting after all that was said (and it turned out successful for Doug), I got all my stuff painted and decided to put the engine back together this afternoon.  Everything went well - I even eliminated the gaps I had between tin pieces....I was proud of that.

 

Then I sat back and after all the tin was assembled to the engine, I noticed that I had never assembled the fan to the shroud.  Gorammit!  

 

Now I have to take everything apart again to put it back together the right way.

 

Screw that.......Left the garage and went for a ride on my bike, instead.  Feel much better after a 30 mile ride.  It's supposed to rain tomorrow - a good time to take things apart just to put them back together again.

 

Doug:  I'll check mine after dinner and a couple of glasses of wine and let you know what the nut size is and how to get it off.  You won't need an impact wrench (although that would make it easy) but I'll give you the "Auld School" way.

 

Stay tuned.......

Doug:

 

It's a 36mm nut, for sure.

 

There should be a slot on the inside pulley half on the alternator.  Line that slot up with 12 o'clock and you should be able to look down inside of the back of the pulley and see a metal tab cast into the case of the alternator.  It's there to act as a stop for the pulley.  

 

Put a substantial phillips screwdriver blade all the way down into that slot so that it can keep the pulley from turning, then you should be able to remove the nut on the fan.  If it won't loosen, then put a 4 foot piece of pipe on the ratchet arm to increase your torque and that should loosen it.

 

gn

Question..... I just picked a CMC speedster with a 1600 and it runs great, but has a knocking noise. I feel it's coming from the alternator/fan box, is that possible? 

Anything is certainly possible.

 

To eliminate the fan/housing as a source of a locking noise, simply remove the fan belt and start the engine.  If the knock is gone, then it's the fan.  If it's still there it's somewhere inside of the engine.  

 

Next place to look would be to listen at the valve covers and if it seems louder on one side then pull that valve cover and start it again - be aware that it'll spew out some oil while running so put a big rag on the floor and don't run it more than 30 seconds or so.  

 

Sooner or later you'll find it or isolate it to inside of the case and THAT becomes a bigger deal.

I had a knock and that turned out to be a loose flywheel that managed to elongate the flywheel bolt holes.

I had a knock in a 1963 VW with a 1967 1500 engine that I had just bought and got started for the first time. I was depressed at the sound and thinking I had a main bearing problem requiring a tear down. As I squatted in front of the motor my knee covered one of the tail pipes. They were original style (with the perforation/baffles in the twin pipes blown out). When I did this the knock went away. It was completely a resonance in the exhaust system. One of the few times things had a simple solution.

Rare? Probably. But my Speedster replica has a chirping sound that I am convinced is coming from the exhaust and not from a reciprocating source.

That makes sense! I'll try removing the belt and running it. I'll let ya know what I find! Thanks