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Work has accelerated at VMC over the Spring, and it looks like my 2332 powered speedster will be done this month!  I’m so excited!  I will be picking it up in person next week or the week after and driving it back up to the Bay Area.  I am looking for practical guidance about pickup, first break in and what to expect.

I want to pick it up and drive the 300 miles immediately.  Greg will drive it 100 miles before I arrive, so I will have the burden of cruising 200 after pickup.  Then, 300 mile service and Hwy 1 home with my sweetheart.  Poor me.  What kind of revs?  Speed?  Route in Orange County?  Do I need a kit?  Maybe fan belt and wrench?  I had a ‘69 911S for many years, and a ‘64 Deluxe bus, so I have some experience in this.    But, I’m so excited, I am needing reminders!

Then what else to expect at home over the first dozen mille?  I plan to drive this car a lot.  I’m decent with a wrench, having had a ‘67 Morris Minor Traveller with a 1275 as a first car.  Haha.  Very familiar with wrenches, and especially electronics!  I used to keep a box of electronics in the Morris and plan an extra hour for any trip over 20 miles.  I would coast to the side and start replacing stuff.  Points and capacitor first, then wires if that didn’t work, cap, plugs, regulator. I would put it all back in the box, and magically it would work the next time.  Fun car.  Loved that thing!

I carried the same habits to the VW, but it was usually clutch cables or a fuse.  One fan belt.

I didn’t need anything on the road EVER for the 911S.  I ended up working on everything, including MFI, over time.  I’ve never had a car that was more of a pleasure to work on.  That thing was engineered to a T.  Truly amazing, and a joy to maintain.

My RS America is completely bulletproof.  It rarely needs anything at all.  Normal maintenance.  One alternator, and one fuel pump.  That’s it in 100,000 miles.  Porsches are truly amazing machines.

But I digress.  Any thoughts, advice or war stories about pickup of my new bundle of joy?

Randy

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Sounds exciting Randy ! I picked mine up last week and drove it home to San Jose. Greg made it simple and I had the paperwork done ahead of time. I drove it up the PCH in stop and go traffic to see how the Subaru did in traffic. There were no over heating problems and ran great. My turn signal switch failed in Santa Monica so I turned around and took the freeway back to Greg's, but that was it. I had Greg change the oil and filter and drove it home the following day. My wife followed me home in the stocker just incase something went wrong. The varied my speed between 55mph and 75mph all the way with 3 stops to cycle the motor to cool down. That was the info I got from John the motor builder at Outfront Motors. The motor purred at 3000rpm at 75 mph, perfect. I have close to 1000 miles on the car. Greg sent me a new gas tank sending unit that was failing. All in all I'm happy with my build and it's been a fun car to drive. Wish you the best on your drive home. I did have tools with me but never need them. Enjoy !!

Just pick a route home that will vary your speed a lot.  If you do a freeway, then just vary your speed there between 55 and 75 (shouldn’t be too hard in typical California traffic).  If Greg changes the oil at 300 miles, then change oil and filter again at 1,000 miles and then at 3,000-5,000 mile intervals and you should be fine for a loooong time.

Spares for a Suby are beyond my experience.  We’ve had a Subaru Outback for 8 years now, and the only thing I’ve had to replace was a headlight bulb and cabin air filters (we get a lot of spring pollen, here).

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Glad to hear that your subies ….  do not use any oil but it is a common issue and some have lost their engine due to oil usage I know of two people personally that did have a major failure due to oil usage and subie manu says it’s normal so go figure

My vw and Hondàs previously had no oil consumption issues but it seems boxer engines have that in common.

Last edited by IaM-Ray

IaM-Ray you are certainly correct about Subaru oil consumption. I was advised by the shop that built my turbo Subaru engine to check my oil level every gas fill up. Having said that, when the engine was installed an IAG air oil separator was also fitted. 2400 km and zero oil consumption.

Good for you Ken I will have to look that up… I did and it seems that it works for turbo setups

Last edited by IaM-Ray

Let’s not get too far off topic yet guys. Teammccalla needs his questions answered first regarding the break-in miles on his AIR-COOLED Speedster. Don’t be distracted by the shiny Suby Dave just picked up.

@MusbJim might be able to give you some driving recommendations as he’s a local. But I would book a couple nights nearby, pick up the car, get some miles in along the coast or in the coastal mountain range, get the oil changed and valves adjusted, then head on home. Vary the speed, vary the RPMs, keep it away from redline, no short trips; let it heat up fully before stopping to heat cycle it properly and enjoy the drive.

After that every 3K miles adjust the valves when stone cold (loose zero IIRC) warm it up a little and change the oil. Ask Greg about the valves but I believe the motors are built with Chromoly pushrods and they expand a negligible amount when hot which is why you adjust to loose zero.

The 2332 Pat is building for Greg is the new cornerstone of reliability. Not real high on horsepower but it has high torque. And it has it in the lower rpm range so it’s available sooner which makes it feel like it has more hp. It also runs cooler so the motor will be more reliable for a longer period of time. Enjoy the ride.

@Teammccalla

Randy, Congratulations on getting your new ride. If you're like many of us, I'm guessing you'll be sitting in your garage for hours just staring at your new pride & joy!

Here's wishing you many miles of top-down cruising. Safe travels on your way home.

BTW - On the Central Coast, I believe Hwy 1 is still closed for landslide repair just north of Ragged Point, 20 miles north of San Simeon / Hearst Castle. The ride on Hwy 1 to that point is fun but you'll have to back-track back to Hwy 46 (just South of Cambria) and head East to Hwy 101.   

@Robert M posted:

The 2332 Pat is building for Greg is the new cornerstone of reliability. Not real high on horsepower but it has high torque. And it has it in the lower rpm range so it’s available sooner which makes it feel like it has more hp. It also runs cooler so the motor will be more reliable for a longer period of time. Enjoy the ride.

That’s exactly the kind of engine I’d like. I got spoiled to it by my 968. Not a ton of HP, but it’s got torque out the ying-yang.  So much so that until you have to come to a complete stop, you can drive it like an automatic in 3rd gear. From 25-60 mph.

Last edited by dlearl476

It’s getting close now. I will post photos as soon as I get them. I’m curious how it will drive. I drive a 1915 in Maui and it was sporty. I haven’t had a brand new car for 25 years. I am thinking of joining PCA to get some touring events.

By the way, does anyone have an extra set of the headlight bar grills that fit over the glass lenses?  Greg says the sources for them have dried up. They can’t even get the mesh ones. I found some on the web at Aircooled Accessories. Does anyone know their work?

@MusbJim posted:

BTW - On the Central Coast, I believe Hwy 1 is still closed for landslide repair just north of Ragged Point, 20 miles north of San Simeon / Hearst Castle. The ride on Hwy 1 to that point is fun but you'll have to back-track back to Hwy 46 (just South of Cambria) and head East to Hwy 101.  

In my head that sounded like an episode of "The Californians"

The Californians, SNL

Glass covers are inexpensive BUT if you break one you may have to buy 2 if you want them to match.  I have old OEM VW HELLA clear ones- new ones are TAIWAN. So like $18 to $80 (for old OEM ones). You want ones for a '54-66 bug (buses too) -- same with stone guards.

TheSamba.com :: VW Classifieds - Vintage Headlamp Grille Rally Race mesh grills

The EMPI stone guards are available - but not sure of fitment-

Code: 18-1112
$139.95 $132.95
Last edited by WOLFGANG

I’ve been driving my black 911 with concours paint around and don’t have any rock chips.  IDK whether to get the clear stuff or skip it.  I love the look of plain paint.  Maybe I’ll just play by ear on that too.

What color cocomats for oatmeal square weave carpet?  My seats are tan with red piping.  Red with white dots might be a bit much.  Is there a tan that will match?  I don’t trust the website colors and figure you all have already been through this.

Everyone who drives a 356 gets stone chips…..  It’s not like you have a metal grill out front to absorb the impacts.

Except for those who spring for a nose bra, either removable or a clear film version.  Those really work, whether you have “Concours Paint” or something from Maaco.

I put my car on the road in 2001 and have never broken a headlight lens in 30,000+ miles.  I did break a Marchal driving light lens (no idea how) and had to buy two on eBay Motors to get a pair that matched, but never a headlight lens.  They’re just VW lenses, after all, so relatively cheap.  That said, I have had a pair of mesh headlight stone guards that are OEM antiques for the past 15 years, too.  

I cannot offer suggestions on Coco mats, sorry.

@Teammccalla If you can narrow your choices from their website, the Coco Mats folks will send you a couple of samples.  Don’t fret about getting them in-hand before you drive your car home, Greg lays down clear plastic protection film in the footwell areas.  You can drive the car with the film in place if you wish.

(Do you plan to drive up the 5, or take a coastal route, or the 101?  Depending on the day you drive home, and the city and time you plan to stop and stretch your legs, eat and refuel, maybe a member nearby would want to briefly meet you and check out your car.)

Thanks, Jon.  I will probably take Hwy 1 up through Malibu, lunch in Cambria, then east over 46 to 101.  I-5 is just too boring.  Maybe I will cut over Hwy 68 at Salinas to Monterey and back up 1.  If time is short I can just cut over Hwy 183 to Castroville and up.  I live between Los Gatos and Santa Cruz so the coast road is good.

There is the Saturday Night Live skit for @JMM (Michael) 

On mats I will have them sent to my home because they wouldn’t get to Greg in time anyway.  I was pretty sure I wanted beige anyway, and the other thread helped steer me clear of red.  

Overall, oatmeal wool carpet scares me, so I appreciate the guidance regarding the plastic on the carpet!  But, I’ll probably just go raw and risk it.  You only live once!

@Teammccalla

- Grille set (2 grilles, $114 for both):  https://sierramadrecollection....4&pr_seq=uniform

- Required Gasket (sold individually, $192 each): https://sierramadrecollection....eal-all-356-s-p17421



Yeah. You’re looking at $498, before tax.

And yes, they require removing the glass. If you’re using them for breakage protection, you’d be better off just buying new glass if it ever breaks - you’ll likely never get your money back. I have a set waiting to put in my car, but it’s 100% for aesthetics.

As for fitment, I’m willing to make any modifications because I like the look so much.

@Teammccalla posted:

I’ve been driving my black 911 with concours paint around and don’t have any rock chips.  IDK whether to get the clear stuff or skip it.  I love the look of plain paint.  Maybe I’ll just play by ear on that too.

What color cocomats for oatmeal square weave carpet?  My seats are tan with red piping.  Red with white dots might be a bit much.  Is there a tan that will match?  I don’t trust the website colors and figure you all have already been through this.

Personally, I wouldn’t go with light colored mats. Red/Tan? I’d probably go with a brown. If they make brown with red flecks, all the better.



eta: they don’t. I think these would be my top choice.


FWIW, after negative experiences with cheap coco mats in my youth, I’d never do coco. I prefer sisal mats. (Although I realize “coco mats” is kind of a generic term like Kleenex and KoolAid) It’s a much tighter/finer weave, and a much more durable fiber.

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Last edited by dlearl476
@JoelP posted:

@Teammccalla

- Grille set (2 grilles, $114 for both):  https://sierramadrecollection....4&pr_seq=uniform

- Required Gasket (sold individually, $192 each): https://sierramadrecollection....eal-all-356-s-p17421



Yeah. You’re looking at $498, before tax.

And yes, they require removing the glass. If you’re using them for breakage protection, you’d be better off just buying new glass if it ever breaks - you’ll likely never get your money back. I have a set waiting to put in my car, but it’s 100% for aesthetics.

As for fitment, I’m willing to make any modifications because I like the look so much.

I prefer the wire mesh style. Cheaper and you don’t have to remove the glass.

@JoelP posted:

@Teammccalla

- Grille set (2 grilles, $114 for both):  https://sierramadrecollection....4&pr_seq=uniform

- Required Gasket (sold individually, $192 each): https://sierramadrecollection....eal-all-356-s-p17421



Yeah. You’re looking at $498, before tax.

And yes, they require removing the glass. If you’re using them for breakage protection, you’d be better off just buying new glass if it ever breaks - you’ll likely never get your money back. I have a set waiting to put in my car, but it’s 100% for aesthetics.

As for fitment, I’m willing to make any modifications because I like the look so much.

Thank you. This is helpful. I will just replace them as I break them!  I like the look without any protection better anyway.

@dlearl476 posted:

Personally, I wouldn’t go with light colored mats. Red/Tan? I’d probably go with a brown. If they make brown with red flecks, all the better.



eta: they don’t. I think these would be my top choice.


FWIW, after negative experiences with cheap coco mats in my youth, I’d never do coco. I prefer sisal mats. (Although I realize “coco mats” is kind of a generic term like Kleenex and KoolAid) It’s a much tighter/finer weave, and a much more durable fiber.

Thank you for the help. I like the brown, and the sisal looks nice. Those really do look good. I’ve gotten used to the coco look as a kind of standard, but it’s not necessarily. I’ll think about it some more.

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