I'm going to my off-site garage soon where I keep my VMC Speedster and will photograph the parking brake and post here today.
Jason
Thanks, @JasonC I really appreciate it.
@JoelP - suit yourself.
I'd not leave the hose clamps, but it would be a proof of concept thing for me. It wouldn't require any disassembly, and would be done in 30 minutes, but you do you.
It's a hobby, after all.
I think maybe you've pulled it a little too hard so the shaft has travelled too far. That allowed the end of the shaft to pull out of the tube at the bottom and jam the end of the shaft on that tube. If you can't pull it even one more quarter inch inch to release the tension, there's your sign. Using the hose clamp as Stan suggested might spring the shaft back down into the tube. Then we can release the parking brake fully and adjust the cable a tad tighter to prevent that much travel.
Alternatively one could try loosening the emergency brake cables to introduce some slack. Then the handle could be pulled a tiny bit to free it and place it back into the center hole through the floorboard. Then we can tighten the cables as above.
I meant the regular tension on the cables. I pulled it gently today for jacking it up. No hard pulling whatsoever. That’s the frustrating part. It’s not locked out. The point now is to fix once and for all. So I want to disassemble it to identify the point of failure to fix conclusively. After all, I will never trust it on a hill or jacking it up if I don’t conclusively set eyes on the point of failure, fashion a solution, then implement it. Anything less will effectively render my parking brake a moot item because I’ll be afraid it will fail at any moment. Honestly, I doubt anyone here would park a car on an incline or decline with a parking brake that isn’t 💯. That’s where I’m at.
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@JoelP posted:....I doubt anyone here would park a car on an incline or decline with a parking brake that isn’t...(100 per cent). That’s where I’m at...
Frankly, Joel, that's about where I was at about 10 years ago when I first got my VS (a somewhat less nicely finished machine than what's currently rolling out of the shops of VMC.)
I had spent some time under the car, inspecting and repairing sundry mechanical bits and was beginning to lose confidence in the mechanical integrity of various vital systems.
In a manual transmission car, I've always used the gearbox as my first weapon against the forces of gravity when parking on a grade. Just choose any gear but neutral and you've got beefier mechanicals working on your behalf than those in most brakes (but especially than those in EMPI brakes).
My handbrake does seem able to hold the car on a hill — but that's always while I'm present and keeping an eye on things. I know how ornery EMPI products can be.
So, shortly after I got the car, I took to carrying a set of these as my real insurance should the transmission somehow pop out of gear on a really steep hill:
These are available at any NAPA store, fold up to nothing, and store on the floor in the back, tucked half under the driver's seat. I have hardly ever actually used them, but just knowing they are there gives me the confidence to park practically anywhere.
Driving the Speedster has taught me a new respect for and fascination with the low-tech path to solving mechanical problems. The less refined solution is often more elegant, the simple more reliable.
Plus, it usually costs a lot less.
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@Sacto Mitch Those are awesome! My small airplane chocks I use currently definitely aren’t “on the go” friendly.
Thanks for the pics @JasonC I think my alignment may have always been the issue. Unless I got into a serious head-on collision and broke my knee on the handbrake bracket and don’t remember it, I think the hole in the firewall may be a centimeter or two low.
In preparing to simply tackle my transmission fluid change this weekend, I've decided to do the following:
- Drive for 40 minutes to warm the fluid thoroughly (thanks to @DannyP for the tip)
- Raise the car of 4 jack stands to ensure it's level
- Remove the driver's side rear wheel to gain access to the transmission filler plug
- Use an 11" wobble extension so more easily gain access to the plug
- Use a 17mm hex socket to remove the plug
- Use the same 17mm socket to then remove the drain plug
- Wait 20 minutes to ensure every drop possible is out
- Clean plug, replace, then fill transmission with AMSOIL 75W-90 synthetic fluid (I bought the bag-version with special caps for easy filling)
- To fill, I will be using a 3' piece of 1/2" aluminum pipe inserted into the filler hole because that will allow me to avoid any spillage due to crowding around the filler hole
- After the transmission is full (likely, after 2.75 quarts ), I will cap it off
That's the plan. If I must deviate, so be it. Let's hope it works!
Joel, first of all, it's gear oil, not "transmission fluid". Yes, gear oil is a fluid LOL!
I let mine drain overnight as long as I have the time.
Have fun.
@jncspyder The 5-gallon bucket idea is AMAZING!!!!!! Never would’ve thought of it. Will do it.
@DannyP Shut up! Hahahah 🤣 You make a great point, and it’s much appreciated. I can definitely do over night, to drain my gear oil. Good idea.
Thanks guys.
The little quart sized pumps will change your life at gear lube service time.
Thanks, Stan. I’ll definitely pick one up just in case.
I use my power bleeder. Just replace the brake fluid reservoir cap with a bit of copper tubing I bent into a hook to hang in the filler hole.
Put the capacity + 3-4 ozs and watch the filler hole when it gets close to empty.
Looks like Motive stole my idea with their “Power Fill.” 
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You. CAn do the same thing with a hose and a funnel inserted in it to pour into … you have to McGuiver it so it stays stilll with the funnel holding up … so I tie it to my garage door metal guides,
and then you stick the other end into the side fill hole of the tranny. At least that’s what I do to fill my tranny but On my subie. I am using the dip stick hole instead but the logic works.
but the pumps are the cats meow
I like it because it’s “set it and forget it.” The first couple of times I did it I wasted some lube because I put in “just the right amount” and didn’t take into account the fluid that was stuck to the walls and in the hose, then had to add more. A couple extra ozs takes care of that and I can pretty much ignore it and do something else until I hear it blowing bubbles.
@dlearl476 posted:I like it because it’s “set it and forget it.” The first couple of times I did it I wasted some lube because I put in “just the right amount” and didn’t take into account the fluid that was stuck to the walls and in the hose, then had to add more. A couple extra ozs takes care of that and I can pretty much ignore it and do something else until I hear it blowing bubbles.
I replaced the stock brake lines on my wife's Macan with the stainless braided hoses, new front rotors and pads, and did a complete brake fluid flush with the Motiv unit. Made sure I had more than enough fluid and made sure I flushed more than enough through each caliper. worked like a champ and was very easy to use. Just made sure to keep the pressure up in the tank to keep the fluid flowing.
@dlearl476, what are you using to clean the brake fluid or gear oil out of you pressure bleeder? Do you have any concern of cross contamination between the different fluid?
@LI-Rick posted:@dlearl476, what are you using to clean the brake fluid or gear oil out of you pressure bleeder? Do you have any concern of cross contamination between the different fluid?
I would wonder what the pump can handle as far as solvents so. I use my pump for brake fluid and my funnel contraption for tranny but my guess is a wash with 99% isopropyl alcohol should clean it fairly well and it evaporates away.
Update: Transmission is done and the car drives smoothly. Better yet, ZERO LEAKS!!!!! All the planning helped. In the end, I couldn’t get a filler pump in time and Home Deport refused to sell me anything but a 10' piece of pipe, so I had to fill the gear oil by hand (don't do this if you can help it). Nonetheless, it is done.
And to all of you who didn't do an initial transmission gear oil change after your initial 300 miles, please do so; your car will thank you. I was amazed at how dirty and how much gritty gunk was on the magnetic plug. If for no other reason, it will give you peace of mind.
Tomorrow morning will be the last of the first service, in that I will be doing a front to back check of all the fasteners and ensuring all wires/connections are still in their correct routing/places.
IMO Break in oil needs a flush out for sure.
@IaM-Ray posted:I would wonder what the pump can handle as far as solvents so. I use my pump for brake fluid and my funnel contraption for tranny but my guess is a wash with 99% isopropyl alcohol should clean it fairly well and it evaporates away.
I rarely use it for brake fluid, actually. When I do, I have a gallon of Wurth parts/brake cleaner devoted to cleaning it. After letting the gear lube or brake fluid drain overnight I dump about half of it in and pump it back out, swishing it around several time during the process. I finish off with about a half pint of clean solvent which then goes in the can with the used solvent.
After setting it in the sun for a bit to let the solvent evaporate, I reach in and check the sides and examine the pump to verify there’s no residue left.
ps: I don’t let anything sit in it for long, so I doubt any part of the process is detrimental to the pump/tank. The only thing I’ve noticed is that the brake cleaner turns the o-ring in the top gooey, but after wiping it off and letting it dry out it’s fine. I’ve been meaning to stop by the industrial rubber joint and buy a Viton o-ring for it, but I never remember when I’m out that way.
The little pumps are $7 at your FLAPS, but you do you.
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@Stan Galat posted:The little pumps are $7 at your FLAPS, but you do you.
Exactly. I have three. One for the special Pentosin trans fluid for the Audi Tiptronic I had, one for brake fluid, and one for plain old gear oil. I like to keep them separated(sing along if you like LOL!).
I also have an empty small brake fluid bottle. I drilled a hole in the top and have a 2" long 1/8" pipe thread nipple screwed into it. It's to fill the Spyder clutch master, and is the only easy way I have found to add the brake fluid. Take the LF wheel off and get right in there, but put a rag under the reservoir in case of spillage.
@DannyP posted:Exactly. I have three. One for the special Pentosin trans fluid for the Audi Tiptronic I had, one for brake fluid, and one for plain old gear oil. I like to keep them separated(sing along if you like LOL!). That's a nod to The Offspring for those that don't know
I also have an empty small brake fluid bottle. I drilled a hole in the top and have a 2" long 1/8" pipe thread nipple screwed into it. It's to fill the Spyder clutch master, and is the only easy way I have found to add the brake fluid. Take the LF wheel off and get right in there, but put a rag under the reservoir in case of spillage.
I bought something similar for doing the PDK service on my wife's Macan. I left all the filled PDK bottles in a box to keep them upright, pumped the bottles into the PDK case until it spilled out, ran the car until the PDK fluid got to 104*F, filled it up again until fluid spilled out, pulled out the tube, plugged it up, and saved $1K on a PDK fluid service. I did buy the MOTIVE unit for doing the brake flush service and it made the job very easy. I didn't ask the dealership how much the job was since I combined it with a full brake service on the front axle and an upgrade on the brake lines. It'll come in handy when I do the service on my 718 Boxster so I didn't mind the investment.
@Robert M That's EXACTLY the procedure for the Audi. I bought the special ECU reader that displayed live data, specifically trans temp. I would guess the reader, the fluid, and the pump cost maybe a little more than $150 but less than $200.
I love saving a boatload on "dealer only" procedures.
@Robert M posted:I bought something similar for doing the PDK service on my wife's Macan. I left all the filled PDK bottles in a box to keep them upright, pumped the bottles into the PDK case until it spilled out, ran the car until the PDK fluid got to 104*F, filled it up again until fluid spilled out, pulled out the tube, plugged it up, and saved $1K on a PDK fluid service. I did buy the MOTIVE unit for doing the brake flush service and it made the job very easy. I didn't ask the dealership how much the job was since I combined it with a full brake service on the front axle and an upgrade on the brake lines. It'll come in handy when I do the service on my 718 Boxster so I didn't mind the investment.
I did a pdk…dsg service on my 2019 vw sportswagen essentially R&R by gravity add extra 10% for loss. Easy peazy and I also did the Haldex with my Quickjack without taking the whole thing apart and even cleaned the plastic filter with a touch of brake cleaner and just refilled …. We are now due to do it again … it is quite the saving in labour costs during the last three years we have seen a 50% increase in shop, labor, hourly rate.
I love German engineering but at this point if I could find older cars, I might be more interested in the BMW or Porsche brands It is becoming harder and harder to do work on cars where the manufacturer is locking out the end-user.
The dealer will also charge you for a highbeam fluid refill.
@DannyP posted:@Robert M That's EXACTLY the procedure for the Audi. I bought the special ECU reader that displayed live data, specifically trans temp. I would guess the reader, the fluid, and the pump cost maybe a little more than $150 but less than $200.
I love saving a boatload on "dealer only" procedures.
I didn't get too crazy with the reader I bought. I got the iCarSoft PRO. It reads a lot of data, such as the PDK fluid temp as well as many others, and it allows me to reset the service interval information and input and reset the battery information when I have to buy a new AGM battery someday. My wife's car is approaching 5 years so unless they put one in when they certified it as a CPO car it will be sooner rather than later. And like yours, mine wasn't too expensive.
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PDK service kits, dealer-only procedures, special ECU readers.
Thanks, guys, for reminding me why I put up with a car that requires cardboard on the garage floor.
I change out the cardboard myself, once a year, whether it needs it or not.
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^ That.
^^ Yup.
^Yup
@IaM-Ray posted:it is quite the saving in labour costs during the last three years we have seen a 50% increase in shop, labor, hourly rate.
I love German engineering but at this point if I could find older cars, I might be more interested in the BMW or Porsche brands It is becoming harder and harder to do work on cars where the manufacturer is locking out the end-user.
^That... and it is not just the German brands... the closest Jeep/Chrysler/Ram/Dodge dealership is charging $199/hr. My dad's closest Jeep/Chrysler/Ram/Dodge is charging $135/hr... what a difference Zip Code makes.
Yep, I'm getting nostalgic for cars I can maintain & fix without a dealer. I once replaced a timing belt in a guys yard literally "under his shade tree". I was VERY lucky that was a clearance engine. Car was '83 Mazda 626 2.0L 4cyl. 5sp, 25+ mpg. Sure it only had 85hp w/ 12sec 0-60 and new 2.0L engines provide us 200+hp w/ 7-8 sec 0-60 tradeoffs of the modern world I guess.
@Wrenn Smith posted:^That... and it is not just the German brands... the closest Jeep/Chrysler/Ram/Dodge dealership is charging $199/hr. My dad's closest Jeep/Chrysler/Ram/Dodge is charging $135/hr... what a difference Zip Code makes.
Yep, I'm getting nostalgic for cars I can maintain & fix without a dealer. I once replaced a timing belt in a guys yard literally "under his shade tree". I was VERY lucky that was a clearance engine. Car was '83 Mazda 626 2.0L 4cyl. 5sp, 25+ mpg. Sure it only had 85hp w/ 12sec 0-60 and new 2.0L engines provide us 200+hp w/ 7-8 sec 0-60 tradeoffs of the modern world I guess.
There is something wrong with the database it only allows ONE like 
I was having that same discussion yesterday and started looking for an older car that is simple to fix.
My 87 535i 5 speed 3.5L was a bomb of simplicity, ecu box, valves and suspension ... did i say suspension and brakes.
Everything else or rather nothing else.
I am starting to think when I saw a yard of the same car being kept for spare parts there was some logic there. More to the point I am sure the sniff agents will want to remove all CO2 producers by fiat anyway. But we might escape it this lifetime but our children will have to push back.
@JoelP posted:VMC PARKING BRAKE STRIKES AGAIN!
Since the first day I got this car this has been an issue and everyone I spoke to assumed I was too incompetant to work a parking brake. Not anymore. I gently pulled the parking break to jack up my car for my service today, and this is what happened (see pic below).
This is the second time in six weeks. I will be contacting VMC to find a fix, as it's still under warranty. Just wanted to give an update because what's the F*CKING point of doing a careful service if I don't get to drive the damn thing! I honestly believe these types of 100% avoidable issues are what cause car owner to neglect their cars: they get worn down by little things and start avoiding important things because they hope to avoid encountering yet another problem.
On a diagnostic note, it appears that the bracket holding the handle and the shaft are not aligned; hence, the "bolt" isn't being fully inserted into the firewall. This is so frustrating because it's such a simple mechanism and I've avoided using the parking brake because of my first day delivery issues with it.
Absolutely understand how these things can happen; these are modifications that can take some time and work to get ironed out.
The umbrella handbrake is hard to adjust to say the least.