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I'm replacing an ignition switch, and checked the output of the alternator at 14+v off the unit and then into the battery.  I guy who was helping me said that was way low, and not enough to run the car and charge the battery.  Is that correct...I've never heard that before?  I know others have have issues with grounds and alt lights, etc., but I wrote it off as perhaps a short in the switch, and I'm checking the grounds, including the battery.  Out of my element here.  Web says output same as we measured.  Idaho

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@Idaho  Good thing you checked in here - Your guy is a Putz.

I'm good with 13.8 - 14.2 as well.

Much above 14.2 will overcharge your battery and cause it to (a.) heat up un-necessarily and (b.) shorten it's life (along with some of the incandescent bulbs in the car).

If your alternator was undercharging, then your alternator light in the Tach would be lit.  No Alt light when running? - Things are charging just fine.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Thank you gentlemen.  Alt light was coming on very dim, then sometimes getting brighter when rpms went up, an intemittent problem sometimes. It seemed related to he headlights/fog lights, too.  A post a year or so ago addressed the issue (sounded the same) and the owner addressed it by cleaning and the grounds for the negative battery cable: one to the top of the steering box, other to the top of of the beam in front of the gas tank.  He said it seemed to be a fix, and would report if it was, but didn't check in again.  Then it just stopped, but the ignition switch went goofy and wouldn't return to the run position after turning it to start.  Had to manually turn back.  So...I'm attacking the ignition switch first, the grounds at the same time, and then, if necessary, the alternator.  Hate electrical issues.  Idaho

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