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I purchased an '08 VS with 2,100 miles in November. It is beautiful and reminds me of my youth (yikes). Went to VS and talked to Kirk (through the cigarette smoke) about the history of my Speedster. Couldn't find it. However, Kirk suggested that it has a 1915 engine with dual carbs, and probably has a 3.88 final drive transmission. Any information you can give me. Pardon the lack of review of the website for answers, but I am old and impatient.

PS This is a great website.

Alan Henderson
1958 Vintage Speedsters(Speedster)
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Members:

I purchased an '08 VS with 2,100 miles in November. It is beautiful and reminds me of my youth (yikes). Went to VS and talked to Kirk (through the cigarette smoke) about the history of my Speedster. Couldn't find it. However, Kirk suggested that it has a 1915 engine with dual carbs, and probably has a 3.88 final drive transmission. Any information you can give me. Pardon the lack of review of the website for answers, but I am old and impatient.

PS This is a great website.

Alan Henderson
Alan--hook up with Roland Rascon---I believe you wil find that he built your eengine and can tell you a lot if he can see it. He is a super guy and always helpful to the folks on this site. He builds many, if not all the Vintage engnes plus has a business on the side building custom engines.

That 1915 is a fine engine and the Kadrons I believe you have are pretty reliable and trouble free.

I made three trips from AR to Carlisle without a single issue with the same engine you have.
I'm new to the Speedster forum, but without knowing the bore and stroke, how can you assume it's a 1915? Unless VS only put 1915s
in that year. I'm in the same boat, I've got a great running motor with my old Intermecca with only a guess (and I mean a guess) on what it is. If it's really important to you, I'd try to find the original owner and the original paperwork, otherwise, unless the builder put a code on it or marks for him to identify it, I would think anything would be a guess. But like I said, I'm new, maybe you guys know more about this that I.
Alan - what Warren said x2, who by-the-way lives only 10 minutes south of your location.

If the engine is running great without any issues I wouldn't be too concerned about the engine size until it needs to be rebuilt, OR if you're really jonesing for a hot-rod Speedster. During a rebuild you could use the engine info you learn during the tear-down to re-build accordingly, for a bigger power-configuration for speed, or the same configuration for efficiency & reliability you've experienced to date.

Hope to see you at the SOC June 2011 event in Pismo (see under "Events' thread; West coast gathering).

Peace - Out!
Hi Alan, Bot a 2005 JPS last march. 2110 with weber 40's. maybe 115 to 120 hp, I'm told by builder. Have put about 4500 miles on since then. Changed oil once. Due for valve adjustment. No problems of any kind. Guys on this site have been very helpful about how hard to push.. Recomended around 3500 to 4000 rpms. seems to run smoother following those recommendations. Other than initial carb adjustment original owner had no problems with build and or engine from new. No cooling problems. Even in summer (fresno heat). Don't have external oil cooler, but do have external filter. Never get above half on temp gauge. Just wanted to offer experience of non-mechanical owner with mild 2110. Have acquaintances on this site with 1915's who have no problems. Sometimes, it seems to be nothing more than the luck of the draw. The builder of my engine is no longer in business and has less than stellar reputation amongst long timers on this site. I was expecting some issues, but as I said, I have had none. Just jawing a little here to provide additional info. Not in any way suggesting 2110 is better. Hope to see you and your ride in Pismo.

Bob and Luftig

Bob--to respond to your question---I had a 1915 in my Vintage Speedster and never had a moment's trouble from it. I did install the C.B. Performance Thin Line Sump which made the engine run cooler.
I have read pretty knowlegable folks say that all that sump does is reduce the time for the oil to get just as hot as without the sump but in my experience that was just not true. That sump has many raised heat sink and the air running over it does cool the oil.

A well built 1915 engine is ok in my book.

Thanks, that rig is set up perfectly for what I do with a 3126 CAT and bullit proof Allison 6 speed auto trans.
I run dedicated between W. Virginia, PA MD and the Ports in NJ
Most of what I haul is higher end insurance company owned vehicles that are than exported through out the world. Today's three cars load will ship out to: United Arab Emirates, Germany and Belgium via Port Newark, NJ. ....Interesting business to say the least.
The brown car in the middle is a '39 Mercedes SS-100 replica I built 15 years ago for a friend in NJ and I somehow ended up buying it last summer. That one went to Denmark. ~Alan
To all who replied to my message: Thank you.

I am aiming to drive the Speedster when the rain stops here in SLO. The advice about the engine and its carbs is very helpful. I plan on going to the Pismo event as it is just down the highway from me.

Getting an almost new replica with a history is a bit foreign, but I am going to get used to it. Whatever will happen will be OK, given my past experiences with an Alfa Romeo.

PS I chose "Ecurie Ecosse" because of Jim Clark, and my grandparents moved from Scotland to Alberta, and parents came to California in 1946 (for the second time). I was privileged to see Clark race at Riverside Raceway on two occasions: (1) a Lotus 23B, and (2) in a Gearhart (sp?) offset chassis Indy car (a piece of crap). He won with the 23B and was leading before the Gearhart broke-- Dan Gurney was chasing but couldn't get ahead).
I have a question; when did Roland start building engines for VS? Mine is a 2004 and came with a 1915 cc. Just curious as to who built it. I was under the impression that for the basic 1600 cc Kirk got VW Mexico longblocks; and when people asked for bigger displacements he just took those apart and bored block and heads, put larger pistons and put them back together.
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