VS fuse block, need amp/location

http://www.the12volt.com/ 

 

The best resource for auto electrical info.

Fuses used should be based on wire size and/or electric load.

IIRC, my car came with all 20 amp from Vintage Spyders........but not any longer!

"WE" need to use the VS Owner's Manual as a base and modify it to include such info like this and the 4 page wiring diagram.  Would probably cover 90% of speedsters out there.

as in 'WE' need to mow the lawn?  or 'WE' need to wash the car? 

 

i agree - this q comes up on a regular basis.

Yeah and I didn't find the answer after I tried not to ask this ubiquitous question.

Gremlinx--I would have thought you would have this answered by now anyway here's the scoop on the VS fuses.  As you likely know, in a Vintage the fuses are located above the driver's left knee.

 

Going from the left (fuse #1 to the left, fuse #6 to the right:

 

#1, Brake lights, 15 amp

#2, Lights: dash, parking and tail, 20 amp

#3, Turn signals, ignition, radio, 15 amp

#4, Horn & wipers, 15 amp

#5, Headlight high beams, 15 amp

#6, Headlight low beams, 15 amp

 

There are certain things you might want to have on board all the time such as this list of fuse values and spare fuses. Also some tools and parts to perform certain fixes such as;

 

a. Spare fanbelt & tools to replace it plus a spare fanbelt and adjustment washers.

b. Small sissors jack, tire tool, and tool to raise and lower the jack.  Hubcap removal tool too

c. Muir book

d. A few basic tools; screwdrivers, pliers, monkey wrench, volt-ohm meter, duct tape, qt of oil

e. Tire pressure gauge  

 

For long trips I carry an extensive list of tools and parts but for just going for ice cream I carry at least these basic things.

 

Good luck with sorting your fuse situation.

If someone will send me the VS manual I would be glad to go over it and make  notes suggestions and simple upgrades  from the builds I've done.  Alan   drclockATpa.net

Alan--email me your address and I'll get a cpy in the mail to you right away.

 

hsbroker AT aol dot com

 

Jack

Ok, I'm trying to figure this one out. The gauge lights came on, I had to do some unplugging of wires and reroute. Now, my brake lights, dash lights, and so forth won't come on, but they will in the start position! Not run, but start... What have I hooked up wrong? It's a VS wire harness

Energizing those circuits in the Start position so I would assume thta you have one wire that powers these going to the start lug on the ignition switch(?), might be something else but without seeing it, tough to guess..

So you think I've somehow moved one of my big 14 gauge wires tht was on accessory to start. I could have. Should the brake lights be able to be hot with the key off? I've driven race cars with it both ways.

On the VS harness the brake lights are keyed "on" to be hot.

 A bigger AMP can pull a lot a power I use at least 10 gauge wire.and As a rule when I add a AMP. I go straight to the battery and add a 30 amp.  a 60 amp relay for any amp over 500 watts to power it on. I normally put the fuse and the relay at the Amp. but many now come with a fuse and relay built in the amp. Many new radios have a amp on circuit lead,, or you can use the antenna up lead to power on your AMP. from the radio..  Im putting one in now tha even has Blue tooth and USB.links

 This is my first Retosound radio  so I'm a little anxious about its functions and programming

 It's pretty good so far . BUT! will need a 12 ft Dual RCA cable for the rear AMP.

    The rear  impedance is  to low. with this conventional harness. The radio is smart enough to tell you when things aren't  right.. WHO"ED DA THUNK!

    I need a shielded cable to get it up to smirf. and maybe dido on the front. I will fix the rear and see what it tells me..

 

 Yelp that was it a better cable for the audio.  I also used Marine  grade 6x9s and 4 speaker from Crutchfields.