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I have one of the original Magna Spark systems, with the coil mounted off of the fan shroud - I mounted it in the driver's rear inner fender wall to eliminate any heat on the coil and just run the coil spark wire a bit longer.  I support it in the middle with a clamp on the unused fan outlet for the heater box on that side - handy.  The system has been bullet-proof since 1998.

CB's supplier has refined the design a few times in the past 20 or so years and the latest billet distributor is supposed to be pretty good with a decent advance curve.

I think it would work well for you

First of all I want to thank everyone for all their comments and advice. I have learned a LOT about the car through all this and found that I can sync carbs, set the timing and do a valve job. Although everything I tried  didn't resolve the issue I'm sort of glad I went through it, even though it did cost me a few $'s. 

I'm happy to report that I'm back on the road, it turned out to be the power circuit nozzle had worked loose. I put it back in and it runs like a champ, I can really tell that all the tuning has paid off.  I do have a question about the nozzle it seems to just rest in the notch on top of the carburetor without anything really keep it in place. Am I missing something or is this how its supposed to be? 

Thanks again! 

The OEM Solex carbs on 40 horse VWs had a press fit for that tube.....  After a rebuild or two they were known to take a leap into the engine during operation.....  Usually they went through ( VERY NOISILY) without causing major damage, as they were "small brass thingies"....  I would reccommend  a VERY small amount of locktite and an appropriate cure time....   Hope this helps.....

So what is loose?

The fitting on the end of the tube hanging down into the venturi, or the other end of the brass tube (where-ever it goes)?

I've read about some brass tube on some Solex carbs coming loose after a while (it is supposedly a press fit and just loosens over time) and most folks just epoxy it in.  Locktite relys on not getting any air after the parts are assembled.  The lack of air (aneorobic, I think the term is) causes the stuff to congeal and harden (like between the threads of a bolt and nut).  

If you are unsure that it will harden on a press fit part, then use some 2-part epoxy that has a good gasoline rating.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

I've never seen that style tube before.....  Like Gordon, I'm curious as to where it connects with the carb...An "exploded" snap shot would help if the unit is still on the bench....

You could use a dab of epoxy at the loose connection, but you must clean it thoroughly with alcohol or lacquer thinner type solvent first....  Watch out for discharge ports...

Good luck...

I found out there is an inset screw and spring that hold it in place. I thought the hole was for an air circuit. It was so deep I couldn't see it. I knew there had to be something holding it in place, and was sure whatever it is had fallen through into the engine. See 19, 20 & 21 below. 

The good news is I'm back on the road and can sleep better knowing that there isn't a screw or spring in my engine! 

 

Annular Discharge

 

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  • Annular Discharge

Glad you found it and have everything ship-shape.  We were close to sending in our resident expert on "flying brass thingies" to help.

Looking at that exploded drawing and a few other images I found when trying to understand your problem, I began to have the same thought I've had with some other designs for things I've seen in the past, and their designers - "What were they thinking?"

There's a lot going on in those old carburetors, for sure.

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