I am looking to reinforce the outer longitudinal edges of my VW floor pan after I shorten it. Any suggestions out there ? I have been thinking about either 1/8" or 3/16" channel or angle, 1-1/4" wide into the existing mounting channel. Any and all suggestions welcome, thanks in advance.
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Near all the fiberglass Speedster bodies (FF/CMC/IM/VS/JPS) come with a substantial steel sub-frame usually bonded to the body. It is plenty strong. Is yours just the fiberglass body? Some manf (RustyTubs) sell the subframe separately.
For what reason? A Speedster doesn't normally need it; a buggy, otoh, can be a different story. Al
I bought a wrecked speedster that had vehicular intercourse with an Escalade and the Speedster held up quite well. The 2 x 4 box steel is strong.
RustyTubs (below) and Kitman have te subframe available separately -
I remember Bob-Z's car now - an unfinished one out of Mexico - might explain whey there is no sub-frame. EMPI does make a 3" dune buggy lift kit -SKU:320-486 $260. The CMC subframe adds 3 " if not 4"s. It doesn't appear to be very thick steel though - looks like primarily for adding wheel clearance.
https://www.renooffroad.com/bo...vw-beetle-dunebuggy/
Hi
I welded some 30mm x 50mm x3mm steel on the outer floor edges, according to Finnish regulations.
I have a dune buggy (on full-size pan) that I plan to do a similar perimeter frame on. The dune buggy is a one-piece body with no door openings. It has no steel subframe so a perimeter frame is needed.
The CMC subframe also features a channel (the 2x4" steel) for hot heated air to get to the front of the car (a lot is probably lost since it was not insulated but it has feeds for defrosting too), a steel cross beam under the dash to hold front hood hinges plus support for the rear of the chassis. Plus the 2x4" frame raises the fiberglass body above the floor pan - not sure how the body would mate to the pan without it? Wouldn't wheel wells be lowered?
Here's what the CMC frame looks like from the inside vehicle.
Wow, I keep finding Bob Z's posts are about 3-6 months ahead of my questions...
Wolfgang, my pan does not match up as well as yours in the photo...looking along the foot-well where the heater openings are. I'm looking to close this up. I believe I saw something on another thread about it but not finding it now. This could also be why Bob Z was asking.
i'll keep looking through but if you guys could post links to the other threads or photos of pan meets body (sub-frame) I'd really appreciate the idea help. My issue is there is barely any overlap along the frame tube where the heater is. photo shown from first test fitting. you can see bolt hole in pan where it attaches to the "body" of bug and it is completely exposed inside the frame of the CMC body.
Please forgive the threadjack and thanks in advance for advice.
Apparently early CMC/FF's came without the inner body panels installed nor the heavy steel subframe installed. My 1988 invoice says I got the "deluxe kit" with the inner panels bonded to the steel subframe and the doors hung (albeit poorly). If those front kick panels don't line up - cut the sides, pop rivet (bolt/liquid nails) so they mate up and re-fiberglass the cut seams. Here's drawing from an early CMC build manual (showing both front and rear inner panel installation).
My take is that after it is bolted all around the pan will stiffen up; just like on a regular VW Type I or III. I always suggest using the heaviest gage possible when replacing floor pans (I believe OEM gage is 18); considering all this hard work, the difference in cost between the lighter and heavier gages is negligible and you'll be glad you did. Wlofsburg West, CIP1 and a couple of other outfits carry the good stuff. Also; like the previous posters have said, most of the bodies nowadays come with that steel subframe glassed in. You should be good.
