VW pan shorting service instruction

I understand that VW published an official instruction on how to shorten a pan.

Anyone have a copy that they can post as this will be helpful with the Authorities at registration time

Posted elsewhere a few days ago, but here it is: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/1968_floorpan_dunebuggy.php
(could be others out there!?)

Good reference -- but cut dimensions seem to be for a MANX dune buggy - so measure twice before cutting for a Speedster or you'll end up with a too short frame. Gotta be more accurate than the 2 warped 2x4" I used IAW the CMC build guide.

Absolutely should measure and mock-up before doing any cutting. Too many miscalculated fits out there, esp. in the front wheel-well centering. (early professional jobs included)
I believe the VW tech-pub is aimed at being a pan-modification guide IAW the popularity of the Manx market. There are different ways to shorten a pan; VW, I'm sure, took an un-official interest in all this, in all likelihood to stem the flow of hatchet-jobs and bastardized pans. (VW published this as an internal document)
Can also refer to this (double-click the image): http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=333522

I use the sub-frame and shorten the pan to fit

Confirm and exact wheel base measurement i.e. center hub to center hub and triangulate the chassis to confirm square. ~Alan

I've been measuring my chassis and I can tell you, for my Fiberfab, the chassis from the centerline of the front crossmember to the centerline on the rear pan angled supports is 55.69"
Jeff

This topic has also been on my mind lately as vw wheelbase is 2400 and the 356 2100mm but most manuals dont use a cut of 300mm. What gives? I have compared the spedster body with an original car and the dimensings of the bodis are within 3mm which can be acounted for by the amount of paint on the original I measured.
The best way of shortening the pan I found to be cutting the central tunnel at a 45 degree angle to ensure that the tunnel shape is constant the angled wels also makes for a stronger weld join.
I use a hole saw just slightly larger than the handbrake tubes to cut them loose at the rear frame horns and then push the two halves together which makes for less welding in the end.
Armand

Dont forget it will vari from kit manufacturier VS, JPS< Fiber fab and so forth (MEASURE WHAT YOU HAVE)..

Also Check the forward pan arch section It may have to be moved forward or rearward to get the front wheels centered in the wheel wells. (BEFORE) you even cut the pan . I just bolted the new one , back on the old rusty floors, and welded the tunnel part .

I drilled my old one off and had to relocate a new one without the rusty mess. I almost didn't catch this during the build..

When I had finished the shorting part of the job, I then replaced the pans, (LAST)


ONE LAST TIP !
I left the rear old curve parts in on both sides and let the new floors end at the back edge, AND trimmed them in.

It kept the pan ribs uniform and neat to the rear of the floor. and made it look more factory