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They put out a nice little JPG pic on that flyer with OEM all over it, showing various parts, a doghouse and a piece of tin (UFT). And a little speech next to it saying they had sourced all sorts of OEM stuff.

Looks like they were not so heavy on the tin part of that ad. I'll check a guy in OKC and see if he can help & let you know.

Jim
"Chrome don't get ya home"

The main reason the original German tin is so nice is because the fit is so nice. The aftermarket stuff works fine. The fit and finish are not the best, but as long as you have all the parts, you should be fine.

I personally don't like the chrome aftermarket only because the quality is usually lousy. I have painted many aftermarket tin parts and never had a problem with cooling.

All the parts have to be there. The holes filled and the seals on. Keep that lower heat out and the cool air in. If you feel the aftermarket stuff is the culprit then switch, but chances are it is working fine.

"Chrome don't get ya home" What you yell at the guys stuck on the side of the road because they spent all there money on cheap chrome accesories instead of spending money on quality parts that make the car run correctly. I'll include flouresent ignition wires, and clear distributor caps.

Wow, that was a vent.
I can't endorse the aftermarket parts from SoCal Imports (or whatever their current name is).

I tried a few Taiwanese cooling tins from them (rear deck plate, upper head tins, front plate) and NOTHING fit properly. I quickly got tired of making spacers and adjustments to the sheetmetal and visited a local "old timer" who had a bunch of older, German tins taken off of donor engines. Got pretty much everything I needed as "Old, old stock" and built my engine up with that. I still believe that black painted German tin cools better than chromed, newer tin, but it's probably because it just fits better and has far fewer air leaks.

gn

BTW, Dave: Have you tried looking in Salvage yards near your location? I've come up with a LOT of early VW stuff really cheap going that route.

Ouch! You guys are brutal!
I got all those things: chrome, clear, colored wires...
The chrome was same price as black and you can always paint when chrome gets too nasty.
And a doghouse 36hp fanshrowd shure is nice when you have dual carbs crammed in there.
And... I agree,the tin from china, tiwan, or anywhere but genuine VW is TERRIBLE! I never appreciated the genuine stuff when it was just a matter of bolting motors together. I wish I could find genuine 36 hp shrowds with or without doghouses.
As terrible as it was to rework and make fit, once I got it all happy, it does all work. The motor runs at same temps as it did when it had VW sheetmetal and lived in my 73Bug.

Greg

PS ( the real reason I started this reply)
Dave D:
where do you live. I'll look through my stash tomorrow. I probably have the tin you need.



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There are numerous advertizers for parts like engine tins in Hot VW's Magazine. Most of the advertisers are mail order guys. I believe for most of us this is a good resource for most drive train realted parts and good articles on the mechanical nature of Type 1 engines.

Here's a link to HotVW's
> www.hotvws.com/issue_preview.html

Also, Mid America Auto Parts is a good source.

And SCAT sells powdercoated or painted engine tins.

> www.scatvw.com/vwhome.html
Thanks to all who responded.

The reason I needed OEM was to fit the new DTM T1 shroud I bought from Jake Raby.
One of the nice touches Jake incorporates in the shroud is where the T4 oil cooler is located (separate fiberglass piece) - a rubber seal is utilized to make it virtually air tight.
I'm thinking or using the same seal around all the tin joints.

I checked out the parts on Samba, but the guy hasn't returned my emails.

I found an "old school" VW mechanic in my area who has made templates of the OEM tin, then cuts the cheap Taiwan crap to fit perfectly.

Thanks again.

Dave
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