Wanted: P' stick on wheel emblem

Wanted: One Porsche crest stick on wheel emblem ( black & red )to use as a horn button overlay ...anyone ? ~Alan

I have some of the medium sized plastic "bubble resin" style and a few metal ones both for the nipple caps, but the metal ones only have the crest, no lettering, I also have one or two of the smaller crests that fit in the center of shift knobs and LeCarra/Moto-Lita horn buttons.

These are all with the full color crest, not the simpler red and black colors, although I could easily make you a red and black style one on my computer and coat it with bubble resin and it would look perfect. Easy. Any other crest or whatever can also be done. LeCarra, MOMO, Mota-Lita, Carrera, whatever. I just did up a set of Abarth wheel crests, horn button and shift knob emblem for the Fiat.

Lemme know the size and style you need, OK?

Got a Momo style P-emblem horn button on fleabay for less than $20 delivered. Been running it for two years and adapted it to my Nardi in minutes.

I found a nice key fob logo with plenty of detail and color and applied it to my Momo horn button...I think it cost me $18. Beats the $75 variety.

A key fob medallion like this. It has the same curvature of a horn button and epoxys on nicely. I found one on eBay for about $18 as I recall.

Very clever indeed!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSCHE-WHEEL-EMBLEMS-356-911-928-914-924-944-speedster-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aaa21c495QQitemZ320681919637QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Alan,
I have one of the above. It's 1.750 dia.
Let me know if you can use it and I'll pop it in the mail for you.

Greg

Tnx for the ideas guys.

Greg that's what I prefer tnx pm sent.

Alan , I went through the same thing as I used a "Grant" wheel. I made my own horn button using some clear epoxy I got at the local plastic shop. The advantage is it didn't really matter the diameter as you can just print it out using your printer then epoxy over it. Cost me $15 and I was able to use it for a number of different badges etc.

http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm

Interesting, great results-found a source here too: http://www.dickblick.com/products/envirotex-lite/

That's some amazing stuff.

A Pub I used to haunt in Ballencolig, Ireland, was renovated (total make-over over a weekend) and they had that stuff poured onto the bar surface as well as the tables. Cured overnight, wore like iron and lasted (seemingly) forever.

If it'll stand up the J.K. Scrumpy's Hard Cider, it'll stand up to anything!

It IS amazing ! ! ! I use it on almost everything, from computer printed emblems to refurbishing grill badges. Great for doing over the Porsche crest on the hood handle, and amazing for coating light lenses.

Especially neat on wooden shift knobs and steering wheels, you just need to put it on in several light coats.

Love it ! ! ! !

And it fun to use. The final step, after putting it over the piece being covered is to exhale hard several times over it. The carbon dioxide causes tons of tiny bubbles in it to rise to the top, break, and leave a PERFECT surface to cure and harden up over night.

It's fun and it fizzles . . .

This button was made using an old trophy plaque covered with several coats of EnviroTex:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/button1-1.jpg

This one, using a Porsche hub cap crest covered with it:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/button1.jpg

This air cleaner top was coated with it entirely:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/eyefilter3.jpg

We used to use a similar product back inj the day called "Build 50" don't recall the maker though.

~WB

Behr, but it's NLA now

Team Evil, love the air cleaner..

Works for all kinds of emblems, I edited this in Photoshop, to the untrained eye everthing looks as it should.

I like your editing job, Simon.

I like what you guys are doing with the Envirotex epoxy stuff on the horn buttons etc. But, tell me how you achieve the convex shape? Are you pouring it into a concave mold? If so, how is it released from the mold?

In addition, I've got a set of Fuchs center caps...the cloisonn

No mold required, the curved edges is a result of its consistency and surface tension, sort of the same way that a few drops of water won't roll off the edge of a penny.

I also used it to make some center caps for some "Empi" hubcaps I picked up

So Simon, how high of a "bubble" can you create before it collapses?

So I'm guessing if this stuff would hold up to summertime rain, I could get my center hubs back to looking like new for plenty less than $100 per

Speakinng of rehabbing these center hub caps...does anyone know of a source for getting them replated gold/brass? I could easily (easy for me to say) handle the paint and epoxy part after that was done.

I have put a few layers over top of one another, to build it up, just have to give them a little bit of time to cure then add another layer. its pretty inexpensive so you could experiment a bit. I think it would probably work well to restore you crests. I made mine from scratch, downloaded the logo then printed them onto photo paper using a high en laser printer.

On the horn button that I made from an old trophy crest, I wrapped some masking tape around the crest and poured in about a quarter inch of EnviroTex, let it harden up and sanded it to a nice dome shape, then gave it another coat to gloss it back up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/button1-1.jpg
Very easy and effective.

On some paper computer printed emblems, I've adhered the paper to aluminum discs and built up about 1/16 of "dome" on top through repeated coatings.

As mentioned, the surface tension creates the dome all on it's own. Just wonderful stuff, really ! ! ! Great for shift knobs, dash knobs, switch plates, emblems, everything you can think of that would carry an emblem, design, crest or need a highly polished surface. Even does a good job of "healing" cracked and crazed lenses and filling in pitted glass surfaces.

Obviously, I can't praise it high enough.

"... does anyone know of a source for getting them re-plated gold/brass?"

On something that small and easy, you could hit the crafts store and grab up a gold or brass leafing kit. Tape the background and spray the crest with adhesive, lay on a gold leaf and lightly brush it into the hollows and grooves, blow off the remainder, A light coat or two with wheel clear, paint in the colors, then coat the whole crest with EnviroTex. When it cures, tape of the crest and spray the rest of the cap with a good semi-gloss (like the trim paint from SEM) pull the tape and done ! ! You could do them all in two sittings over a weekend, easily.

Luck-

TC

Thanks TC, thanks for the tips. The gold leafing sounds interesting. I've done plenty of fiberglass work and know my way around that stuff pretty good. Glad to know that this product can be built up in layers and polished. Maybe next winter I'll try to fully encapsulate the horn button on my Momo 911 wheel, though my exposed crest works out pretty good as it is. Being relatively new to you group of guys, I appreciate everyone's help. Am I reading your messages correctly here...you are or are not going to be at Carlisle?
It will be my first foray with this group and I'm looking forward to putting faces with the names. I made a comment last night about the TVR you're coveting...I'm still regretting I didn't buy that new 3000M back in the early 80's. I remember that car as being very cool.

Carlisle still looks like a go for me, sure hope so ! !

When you get around to playing with your horn button, you might want to try heating the emblem up a bit on the back side and letting it melt into the plastic button top. Pull it back out and finish the button surface a bit, tidy up the edges, and maybe do some dremel work to the pocket that was formed. Then pop the crest back on and see where you stand with it.

Could be a neat that way, or would make encapsulating it fully a little easier.

Maybe?

Here's part two of the wheel center hub rehab option: A few months ago I found these on eBay and couldn't resist buying them for a total of $30 or so. Thinking that if they weren't that good I wouldn't be out too badly and could still probably turn them around again. I was hoping they had the same peg placement and it would be a simple swap out. Well, the pegs are in a different location and the casting of the logo not quite as exquisite as my originals, but overall not bad. Size seems to be dead-on. So, for a quick, as in this summer fix, I thought I might pop these out of the actual chrome cap, knock off the pegs and marine epoxy them onto my (I would paint them anew first) my center caps. Then this winter (I'm already planning for another miserable winter ahead), I could do the rehab to these original crests. The chrome center caps I'm really not interested in, and they are just a little too snug to fit into my Fuchs 911 wheels, though some grinding would make them fit. The concern I have with this whole plan is marine epoxy...I sure would hate to have them flinging off the hub at speed. Finally, if anyone is interested in the chrome hubs, let me know. Maybe someone wants to seal in a paper logo with some of this casting material. Maybe I should bring them along to Carlisle.

I could be TOTALLY interested in the remaining chromed caps once the crests have been pulled. They have a neat sort look to them similar to the ones that came on the later Morgans.

Lemme know, OK?

Thanks !

TC

TC, I e-mailed you back. They are a nice quality item, so let me know if my price is o.k.

Just got the pics and these suckers are SO BEAUTIFUL ! ! ! I was gonna scoop them up just in case, but I have to break that habit. They're too big for one set and too small for another, so I won't be getting 'em, but SOMEONE grab these things. They're four little works of art, seriously ! ! And the price is sensational. Really.

Thanks,

TC