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Rusty Tubs has just the external door skin for $325.  I think they sell the entire door but suspect the 2 pieces are unbonded.  I've not seen any complete doors advertised - even on the few burned cars the doors always seem to be singed very badly.  There is a SOCer here in Tampa/Sarasota area with original CMC  Wide Body molds who could flash the outer piece but you'd still have to bond it all around.  Fixing old might be simpler.

Last edited by WOLFGANG
WOLFGANG posted:

I 'll try to find his name - he contacted me awhile back.  I noticed in an old MG MAGIC list of parts still available, it has outer door skins for $245 - but says call for info. MG MAGIC bought up NOS CMC parts for speedster, Gazelles and MGTD years ago.

http://www.mgmagicclassicmotorparts.com/

The guy is in FL.  He posted here very recently about someone's inquiry about louvered engine lids as I recall.

Well I called Vintage speedsters, and they hooked me up with a door skin for under $100 bucks. The best news thus far. Im going to use my frame and just replace the skin. Ill fit it first then bond it to the frame. A little more fitting and sanding, primer, paint, wet sand and buff. I hope its like it never happened

 

The good news is I have some of the original paint, and the mixing info. Ill just have some matched and mixed and go at it

Last edited by Tab Tanner

"Ill just have a pint matched and mixed and go at it"

A "Pint" ??  Even with an equal amount of "fixer", that doesn't sound like enough for several coats, and no place around here (Massachusetts) will custom mix less than a quart, which is about what you might need (plus a quart of fixer).  

Add to that the potential for fading over time and your paint "formula" for the original might not still match (I know mine doesn't).  Take the door off and before you get too far, take it to either a good, fiberglass body shop or a paint supply house with a chromatic paint-matching computer and get something mixed to match your door as it is now, not what it was when it was new.

Also, if your fiberglassing skills are lacking a few finer points, as mentioned above, either find a local shop good at fixing Corvettes or where local boat marinas send their damaged boats to - Those folks both know their fiberglass stuff and might help with tips.  

Alan Merklin posted:

Use the right adhesive bonding material or you'll be redoing it in short time.... "Corvette glue" as it is called, covers a number of correct products for the actual bonding , be sure to clean and prep both mating surfaces. If I still had the shop I would have been glad to do this for you with a quick turn around.

Over/under on Al being shopless:

1 year.

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