Weber 48 IDF on 2276

For the best driveability in a street engine, most people will tell you the venturis should be 2-4mm smaller than the intake valve, so 37's are the right size for an engine with 40mm intakes. Bigger may give a few more very top end hp but will wash out lower rpm throttle response (where you will spend most of your time driving). Talk to ACN for jetting recommendations and be prepared to "play" with the jets a bit to get it right. Know what emulsion tubes the carbs have as they will influence things as well. Al

I think the 44's are actually a better match for what you have, and the engine may be happier throughout the rpm range with the smaller carburetors. What vents are in the 44's? 

The 44 HPMX has the following

Idle Jet .55

Main Jet .135

Air Correction 200

Venturi 36mm

Emulsion tube F11

The Webers have a F2 emulsion tube

The 44 HPMX says good for engines up to 2100cc

I would think the jets it came with will do well for you overall. I think CB's specs will drown it.

Bobby, call Randy Resetar at Redline in Torrance, CA. His number is: 1-800-733-2277 extension 7237

Randy's a VW guy, has lots of experience with built motors and can help dial you in.

John at Powerhaus VW Parts, also in Torrance, has a wealth of Weber knowledge as well: 1-310-328-2746

 Mike Pierce, owner of Pierce Manifolds in Gilroy, CA knows Webers inside and out his number is: 1-408-842-6667

Thanks Will

Bobby, good luck dialing them. It takes some trial and error (mostly error for me) but once dialed, they work great!  (I'm running 44 IDF's on my 2110)

Also, 

Before I bought the 48idf I purchased some jetting for the new 44 HPMX carb based on looking at the Bob Tomlinson's  guide for dual 44 idfs.  The guide recommends the following for up to 2234cc.

36mm Venturi's, Main Jet 1.60,  A/C 2.00,  E.Tube F11, Idle jet .60 and Pump jet .50

So basically increasing the Main jet and Idle jet.

Bobby,

Generally the books and VW guys you contact are going to recommend big honkin' vents, idles, and mains, because most books (Tomlinson's included) and VW guys think that everybody wants to drag-race their car every weekend.

For a street car, Al's (ALB's) recommendations should be heeded. A 2275 with Panchitos would be really, really happy with 40s. 44s will be fine. 48s will be huge. You don't have enough head to support what they will flow. All the drag-race guys will want you to go bigger. I wouldn't.

Thanks Stan

I will stick with the 44's and save the 48 for another build.  Do you think I should keep the jets stock in the 44's?

It's a good place to start. You may end up bumping up both the idles and mains, but starting a bit small and working up will make you happier than the other way around.

The best investment you can make (after a snail-style air-flow meter) is a wideband O2 sensor. You can see a lot with that. The next purchase I'd make would be a set of jet guides and reamers.

You'll do great.

What Stan said X-2 Welding a bung into your exhaust and hooking up an exhaust gas anylizer will go a long way in getting the result you want.....Also...get the reamers...Bruce

If you can't find the proper reamers, then a set of gas welding torch tip drills will do the same thing if you're only going up 1/2 to one size or so.  Beyond that, you should spring for the larger jet as they tend to countersink the entry hole and you'll be eating up too much of the countersunk hole.

Thanks guys.  I appreciate all the input.

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:

It's a good place to start. You may end up bumping up both the idles and mains, but starting a bit small and working up will make you happier than the other way around.

The best investment you can make (after a snail-style air-flow meter) is a wideband O2 sensor. You can see a lot with that. The next purchase I'd make would be a set of jet guides and reamers.

You'll do great.

Bobby, you could purchase a Vintage Speed (Taiwanese) stainless exhaust system which comes with O2 sensor bungs/plugs on either side of the exhaust canister. Plus, they sound great and look extremely close to the stock Speedster exhaust. Sacto Mitch and I are both running them (possibly others on here, I don't know).

My Porsche guru Jim Ansite has a portable O2 meter which we used as we were jetting my 44's, it was super-helpful and when I pull my spark plugs now, they're caramel brown, running right where they should be.

I ended up with 34 venturis, 60 idles, 135 mains and 185 air correction jets. I also set the floats at 10 mm closed, 32 mm open. My electric fuel pump supplies a steady 3 psi.

Stick with it and you'll reap the benefits.

Will

Hey Will

I am definitely going to change my exhaust.  Do you have a picture of the one you purchased.   I was thinking of going with A1-sidewinder with the center exit.  I think I need at  least 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 to get good flow.  I was also debating on the A1-Sidewinder with the bottom exit so I can drop the car lower.  I have a spot on my driveway that my current pipes hit if I am not super careful.  I had to raise the car up to clear the driveway.  I think the speedster would look better lower to the ground.  What muffler are you guys liking?

From what I've read, the Vintage Speed exhaust starts giving up hp at somewhere around 4500-5,000rpm compared to the A1 Sidewinder. Jim Beahm's header size chart (published in Hot VW's in 2012?) has 1 5/8" primaries good from 2600 to 6450rpm on a 2276, while 1 3/4" is good from 3,000 to 7500rpm. With what you're building, go with the smaller tubing for better throttle response in the lower rpm's (where we do spend most of our time driving). To get the best of both worlds you could have it built as a step header ($60 extra, I think, and I don't get why more people don't have this done), although I would ask Tiger at A1 if this would be worthwhile for you. Al 

Exhaust needs to be no bigger than 1-5/8".  If you have low compression go with 1-1/2". Your running a engle 120?  Is it straight up or advanced?   Straight up works but the power band comes on strong in upper rpms. Advancing it a couple degrees gives you more low end.  My logic is that normally 48 IDF out of box are a pain to tune do to the large Venturi. The 36 or 37 venturi will be fine. Or step up to the 40 but no bigger.   Start with the 55 idle jets. F11 tubes, air either 190-200. And 140-145 main jet.  You call five different tuners and will get five different suggestions. All should be close.  Before you start making adjustments the linkage needs to be adjusted properly, engine warm!  Several issues fall back on the carbs not being sync!  I would work with the Venturi you have then once to have it dialed in and some miles on it then buy a set of 40mm Venturi    Don't buy the 42 or 44   Difficult to work on a street motor  they will give you a flat spot that will drive you nuts!      That's my 2 sense!

If your in NorCal contact me.    

As for exhaust I have a 1-1/2 you could try. It's a A1

For anyone with a Beck, Vintage Speed makes a Beck Specific version of their exhaust for me.  I am sure they'd sell it directly if asked (and I don't mind and the 2 I have in stock are going on builds)  Anyway, we changed the muffler to sit 12mm lower than their stock, allowing for better clearance of the rear valence.  We also extended the tips by 50mm so they protrude just slightly past the bumpers like the originals...

I do not have any dyno testing done on this muffler, however I recently replaced a  sidewinder with a  VSpeed and felt no difference...

I plan on shipping one to Pat as he completes my next batch of engines and will follow up with actual dyno results.

Hey Carey

As you know I have a Beck with the Trillmill peashooter exhaust with heater boxes.  Not sure the size.  Do you have any picture of the vintage one  they build specific for you guys?  I think I will get rid of the heater boxes

Does anyone have an email address for Tiger at A1?

Tigerperformance (AT) aol (DOT) com

I have pics of the lowered muffler but not the longer tips.  The first batch with longer tips was a more recent change and we just test fit them and put them back in boxes while we wait for the engines.  

excuse the washed out iPhone pics...

this shows the lowered muffler but still the shorter tips

Carey

I actually like the shorter tips.  What size are the primaries?

You have to make the muffler lower, but you don't have to extend the tips.  

1 1/2" primaries on everything I have here, but they have been very receptive to any change I've needed, so I assume they'd make 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" if needed.

With the shorter tips do you not get more exhaust smell in the cockpit?

no, just more crap on the back of the car/bumper

lol good one

Does it take flanged heater boxes or regular?

Bobby, here's a shot of mine, before install. The tips sometimes hit, barely. I wouldn't want the exhaust can any lower, it would probably hit often.

Thanks Will

That is almost exactly what my Trillmill looks like, except my has the heater boxes.

I don't know if this is an A-1 Exhaust, but I really like the looks of it.

I just read the body of the writeup for that image.  It is an A-1

@Bobby D, looking forward to seeing your car this Spring when the weather gets warm and we can have fun in them again!

We should attend a few cars & coffee together

mine has heater boxes, Vintage makes them either way, with or without

http://shop.vintagespeed.com.t.../sc.12/category.2/.f

Sure thing JETHRO.

Bobby D posted:

I just read the body of the writeup for that image.  It is an A-1

Confirmed.   It's an A1 Sidewinder and it's on the car that is sitting in my garage waiting for slightly warmer weather before I put it back on eBay.   It seems that everyone who has inquired about it wants a car with heat.

That's a good looking car Troy.  I like that look without the bumper guards.

A 2275 with 9.5-1 compression is going to be tough to cool in a Speedster. Better have a heck of an oil cooler with a big fan, a deeper oil sump and even better a Carrera deck lid with louvres.  Also make sure you have all the right tins on the motor.  If you don't believe me, search some of the posts by Pat downs about engine sizes, compression and cooling.