I have a 2367 cc type IV, with dual 44 Webers. Like many of you, the hex bar carb linkage is between the cooling shroud and the firewall. The issue is access to the idle speed screw, what I would charitably describe as
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I have a 2367 cc type IV, with dual 44 Webers. Like many of you, the hex bar carb linkage is between the cooling shroud and the firewall. The issue is access to the idle speed screw, what I would charitably describe as
OOPS! Just re-read and realized that you have a Type IV, and that your hex bar is on the front. I see your problem. I had what I thought was a helpful post entered until after I hit "Send". How can I delete this post?
The shaft is solid and the idle adjustment screw is attached to the linkage. I've done this procedure in the past and it is possible.
You'll need to remove the idle adjuster and swap it 180 degree's provided it lines up with the idle adjustment boss on the other side of the carb. Sometimes, it requires that you swap the adjusters from one carb to the other. When you reinstall the vertical arms that attaches the carb's control arm to the hex bar, you'll have to totally resyncronize your carbs and make sure the carb's open evenly and smoothly.
Send some photo's
Forgot to mention, I do a lot of work for people that own replica Spyders and Speedsters. I'm about 100 miles north of you in Ontario, Calif.
You'll need to remove the idle adjuster and swap it 180 degree's provided it lines up with the idle adjustment boss on the other side of the carb. Sometimes, it requires that you swap the adjusters from one carb to the other. When you reinstall the vertical arms that attaches the carb's control arm to the hex bar, you'll have to totally resyncronize your carbs and make sure the carb's open evenly and smoothly.
Send some photo's
Forgot to mention, I do a lot of work for people that own replica Spyders and Speedsters. I'm about 100 miles north of you in Ontario, Calif.
Lane - you can run but you can't hide. Or in your case, you can edit a bad post but you can't delete it. Just use the "edit key" and delete the words. The post remains, but it will be blank. Been there - done that. I think it's Theron's incentive to refrain from those "knee jerk reaction" posts.
Larry - thanks for the input. On my carbs, I all ready have a complete set of bracketry and such on BOTH ends of the throttle shaft, so all I have to do is swap the screw itself and the local return spring. As for being in Ontario - that is 100 miles of good road - and 100 miles of BAD traffic, to get there! Thanks.
Larry - thanks for the input. On my carbs, I all ready have a complete set of bracketry and such on BOTH ends of the throttle shaft, so all I have to do is swap the screw itself and the local return spring. As for being in Ontario - that is 100 miles of good road - and 100 miles of BAD traffic, to get there! Thanks.
you can do this, but you should be aware that the throttle shaft will twist as you put miles on the car. The idle speed screw and linkage should be on the same end of the carb for this reason.
John
Aircooled.Net Inc.
John
Aircooled.Net Inc.
Thanks John, looks like the old tolerance stackup gets me. I was thinkin' alongs those lines, bu with a bad back I was hsitant to experiment as it gets painful in a hurry. Thanks again.