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It's the start of the drivin' season, it was in the 80's for the last 2 days. When I started the car a few weeks ago the battery needed charging. So I charged it.

When I turn off the car after about 40 minutes it has a hard time turning (slow)

So I hooked up the charger again, 15A and the needle on the charger goes from 15......then you can watch the needle move to CHARGED and the green light goes on, then back to 15A (charging) and you can watch the needle again.

...symptom..... battery dead? I put the multi on the battery and can watch the V drop from 13.5.....12.5...........11.........(2 hours later [now] and it's at 7.5V)

Also replaced my 100mm fan belt and played with the spacers in the upper wheel... the deflection is about 1/4" now but I am thinking there will be a little stretch? (Supposed to be 1/2" to 3/4")I am not using 3 spacers now.

1957 Porsche(Speedster)

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It's the start of the drivin' season, it was in the 80's for the last 2 days. When I started the car a few weeks ago the battery needed charging. So I charged it.

When I turn off the car after about 40 minutes it has a hard time turning (slow)

So I hooked up the charger again, 15A and the needle on the charger goes from 15......then you can watch the needle move to CHARGED and the green light goes on, then back to 15A (charging) and you can watch the needle again.

...symptom..... battery dead? I put the multi on the battery and can watch the V drop from 13.5.....12.5...........11.........(2 hours later [now] and it's at 7.5V)

Also replaced my 100mm fan belt and played with the spacers in the upper wheel... the deflection is about 1/4" now but I am thinking there will be a little stretch? (Supposed to be 1/2" to 3/4")I am not using 3 spacers now.

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  • bob
Alan is correct about the "spark" however if you have a radio in the car and it has electronic memory for a clock, pre-set radio channels etc, it will cause a tiny spark to appear. The bottom line is to determine if any component in your car needs to be powered when the ignition is in the off position and disconnect that component before doing the "spark" test.

A better way is to install an Amp meter (usually part of a multimeter) between the battery negative post and the removed battery negative cable. Note the reading then start pulling fuses and check the meter each time you pull a fuse and re-insert it. If the amp's drop then that component protected by the fuse is drawing power.

All of the above is probably TMI (too much information) as your battery is probably just "bad"

Extreme hot and cold weather severely shortens batter life. Since the car was in winter storage and doing nothing for several months, that's prime time for it to develop a bad cell or cells.
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