The $250 was for a torque wrench.
How does that Torque-meister thingy work, anyway?
Lane, you can watch this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66PeguKXnds
He has braced the drum to keep it from turning.
But, that is not necessary if you keep the handle of the wrench pointing toward the center of the drum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66PeguKXnds
He has braced the drum to keep it from turning.
But, that is not necessary if you keep the handle of the wrench pointing toward the center of the drum.
EPILOGUE: Got it all back together yesterday - twice. Couldn't get the brake adjusters to work the first time, so I called Gordon to whine. He told me to take it back apart and disassemble the adjusters and lube them with anti-size. Once I did that I also made sure I noted which way made what adjustment: to move the shoes out it's lower left, raise right when looking at the backing plate from under the car. For the first time I have been able to successfully adjust my rear brakes. I've tweaked it a couple of times now, and it stops straight. I may tighten the rear up one more click as the fronts will still lock when you brake hard.
As for torquing the castelated nut on the drum, I used my neighbor's BFTW to get it to a measured 200lbs. Then I used a 2-foot breaker bar to rotate it further to get the cotter pin hole to line up with a slot. Yeah, I know that's kind of guessing, but I KNOW they are at least the prescribed 217lbs, and probably no more than 250lbs as I didn't have to go very far. Please let me know ASAP if that really sounds like I've made a mistake.
As for torquing the castelated nut on the drum, I used my neighbor's BFTW to get it to a measured 200lbs. Then I used a 2-foot breaker bar to rotate it further to get the cotter pin hole to line up with a slot. Yeah, I know that's kind of guessing, but I KNOW they are at least the prescribed 217lbs, and probably no more than 250lbs as I didn't have to go very far. Please let me know ASAP if that really sounds like I've made a mistake.
Sounds like that should be OK. Just check them after 50 miles or so.
~WB
~WB
Works for me....
Lane- If you have discs on the front and stock type 1 rear drums it may be diffucult to keep the fronts from locking up before the rears. Smaller diameter tires on the front only agravates the situation. For better rear braking, type 3 rear brakes work well; the shoes are wider and the drums are bigger. The only problem is they will push the drum/wheel mating surface out about 5/8". I believe you'll need everything from the backing plate out (it's been 25 years since I did that conversion). If you are using a newer transaxle, axles and tubes off of a '66 or earlier car are shorter. For those with IRS, the diagonal arms can be modified to move inner bearing/stub axle assembly inward about 1"
Don't have any extra space to move the rear wheels out. I have less than 1/4" between the tire and the fender as it is because I'm running 185s from and rear.. I'll tweak the brakes one more time and see if I can adjust them out just a touch. If not, I can live with what I have as it's pretty darn good.
HIPP HIPP WHOOO RAA!!!
Im glad you got it Lane
If your ajusters are in good condition just back up your car a few times while pumping the brakes a full stroke and the Ajusters will ajust themselves up perfect..
How's that for simple??
Im glad you got it Lane
If your ajusters are in good condition just back up your car a few times while pumping the brakes a full stroke and the Ajusters will ajust themselves up perfect..
How's that for simple??
Yeah, good one!
And don't worry about getting the rear nuts too tight. You can whomp 'em up to 300 ft lbs. with no harm done. Much better to be tighter than looser (as you already found out).
You driving the Speedster up to Asheville or wimping out with the Bimmer??
And don't worry about getting the rear nuts too tight. You can whomp 'em up to 300 ft lbs. with no harm done. Much better to be tighter than looser (as you already found out).
You driving the Speedster up to Asheville or wimping out with the Bimmer??
For those of you looking for more tire clearance with swing axles-
short axle/short spline- '66 and earlier bug- 26 11/16"
short axle/long spline- '67 bug- 27 13/16"
longaxle/longspline '68 & newer bug & type 3- 28 7/16"
You can swap axles and tubes on any 1 piece case (61 and newer) swing axle transaxle. There is 1 3/4" difference between the longest and shortest axles (and tubes). My apologies if this info is already somewhere else.
short axle/short spline- '66 and earlier bug- 26 11/16"
short axle/long spline- '67 bug- 27 13/16"
longaxle/longspline '68 & newer bug & type 3- 28 7/16"
You can swap axles and tubes on any 1 piece case (61 and newer) swing axle transaxle. There is 1 3/4" difference between the longest and shortest axles (and tubes). My apologies if this info is already somewhere else.
With Pam and luggage it'll definitely be the Bimmer. Besides, it's my first chance to take it on a road trip.
great thread here -- we can always count on Lane to put it all out there and get the cognosci gathered up to shed the light required. We'll make a grease monkey out of him yet. Good on ya.
Re: torqueing castle nuts: Get the right size socket and hefty driver, and put on a nice long cheater bar, more or less horizontal to the ground. Go inside the house and up to the bathroom, and get on the scale. Divide your weight into 217, and then go stand on the breaker bar that many feet from the hub. Works. Simple. If you wanna be sure, when you think you have it about right, just hop up and down a little on the bar -- might have to do that anyway to get the cotter pin in. Obviously, the reverse works too: just stand a bit farther out when you want to get that damn nut that's been on there for so many years loose.
Congrats on a job well done -- or at least done. You will not know how well it's done for a little while longer while you check every day for signs of leakage. But stopping in a straight line is always a good thing: necessary, but not sufficient, as we sometimes say.
PS: did you ever get the little washer thingy put in that would stop the rattle? That was why you went into the swamp in the first place, right??
And PPS: I am sure you checked your trans oil level when all was said and done, and after a few sporty turns in both directions . . .
Re: torqueing castle nuts: Get the right size socket and hefty driver, and put on a nice long cheater bar, more or less horizontal to the ground. Go inside the house and up to the bathroom, and get on the scale. Divide your weight into 217, and then go stand on the breaker bar that many feet from the hub. Works. Simple. If you wanna be sure, when you think you have it about right, just hop up and down a little on the bar -- might have to do that anyway to get the cotter pin in. Obviously, the reverse works too: just stand a bit farther out when you want to get that damn nut that's been on there for so many years loose.
Congrats on a job well done -- or at least done. You will not know how well it's done for a little while longer while you check every day for signs of leakage. But stopping in a straight line is always a good thing: necessary, but not sufficient, as we sometimes say.
PS: did you ever get the little washer thingy put in that would stop the rattle? That was why you went into the swamp in the first place, right??
And PPS: I am sure you checked your trans oil level when all was said and done, and after a few sporty turns in both directions . . .
A constant of 217? WTF is THAT?
Then I tried it and, WOW!.......it works.
Friggin Engineers. Ya can't understand them, but, dammit, they're usually right.
Just ask me. I married one of 'em..... And my son is one, too...
Thank God I didn't have to be one.....
Sheesh......
Happy Thanksgiving, Kelly!!
Then I tried it and, WOW!.......it works.
Friggin Engineers. Ya can't understand them, but, dammit, they're usually right.
Just ask me. I married one of 'em..... And my son is one, too...
Thank God I didn't have to be one.....
Sheesh......
Happy Thanksgiving, Kelly!!
Of course you have to balance on one foot to maintain the precise distance on the bar.
Yup, the rattle is now history. I probably lost no more than a tablespoon (or two) of trans oil, so I haven't checked it yet. Will do so next weekend.