What about the new IM super 90 engine

Henry tells me the 2004 super 90 engine is 100 hp. Last year it was 90 hp. Has anyone driven the two cars to compare. How much difference does this make

What size is the super 90 (or super 100)?
Ron

I think 1776cc. The old 90 hp and the new 100 hp are both 1776cc.

Thanks Paul.
Ron

I could be mistaken, but isn't the difference between the two the new CB round port heads Henry is using now? Eddie

Is it built on a Magnesium or Aluminum case. Im told the alumium cases hold tourqe better???

I had chance to talk to Henry today and asked about the new 90.
- Bit higher compression
- Larger displacement (1776cc - old one is 1600cc)
- Better head from CB performance
- 110 lb-ft@4500, 100 hp@5000

What about chokes? Did the original 356's have manual chokes. I spoke with someone with a 2110 cc IM motor and he told me his car had a choke. Are they on all IM engines?

Barry, the case will be stock VW magnesium alloy unless you want to pay extra for the new aluminum case - no difference in torque.

Paul, if the carbs are idf's the chokes (enrichening circuits) are normally disabled.

George, Please excuse me but I am not up to speed with these terms. What is an IDF? Also, the person I spoke with had the large IM motor and it had a manual choke. He said he had a little trouble with it starting until he got the hang of it.

I'm running 44 IDFs on my 2110 and I have no problem starting the car when the temperature is one or two degrees above freezing. Takes a few minutes to warm the motor up, but after that its off I go. Can't see why you would need a choke.
Ron

Paul,
IDF is a type of Weber carburetor - 2 barrel, downdraft style.
The IDF is ideal for use on most opposed-cylinder engines, or on engines where the intake ports are nearly vertical.
They come in 3 sizes - 40, 44, & 48mm.
Do a google search for Weber carburetors to learn more.
I agree with Ron - you don't need chokes if the carbs are tuned properly.

Dave

I've had ICTs, and 40IDFs (currently IDFs) in Oklahoma where the temp range runs from -5 to -10 (extremes) to 110+. I've never had a cold start problem with the Webers. The ICTs and 40IDFs only seem to take a blip ot two to get them to settle into a cold idle on 20-30-40' days. The car sits in an attached 3 car garage and there is some protection there, so the temps aren't all that bad for starting.

Of course being from the Southwest I can't figure out why one would want to start and drive their Speedster when it's that cold out........;-)

Jim, mine is under wraps too, and I can't wait until the spring. It doesn't get really cold where I live (30 to 50 degrees F in the winter) and we usually only have a week or so of snow). But we get a sh#t load of rain and my car leaks when it really rains. I really don't like driving my IM when it's cold and rainning....it's noisy, with the top up, and the windows fog up. That's why I have my Ford Ranger 4 x 4 pickup.
Ron

By the way, if any of you have CD boxes you know how much easier your cars are to start, when it's cold out. Mine has an Aurora box, which also has a built in coil.

OK, you got me. What is a CD box? Also, the owner I spoke with had a new IM with the 2110cc engine and he told me he had a manual choke. I will learn more about the Weber carbs

You take and old portable CD player and connect it between your distributer cap and your coil. The electrical capacitance of the CD provides a stronger spark. I have found that Rock CDs work much better than say, Classical...

Thanks George,
I am still tormitting my self on my engine ordeal. T4 or T1

I have a friend preparing to build a high gas milage 1776 with nickies and I suggested the EMPI aluminum case.
It's a bunch cheaper than the TF-1 and since he is not building for power and It's not expected to run flat out like some of these cars can, or be stroked.

I felt I gave him sound advise.

I did want to suggest a good balanced crank and rod combo, and a good set of small valve flowed heads.

But alas I am not a race engine builder. I've only done stock stuff

But, I may yeat, follow in his footsteps. and build a spare engine.

Ron, serves me right for asking so many questions

Paul, I believe CD stands for capacitive discharge. The short answer is it makes a stronger spark and therefore can still get the fuel burning even when the conditions in the cylinder might not be ideal, like cold, maybe damp, plugs that are not gapped properly, or carbon build up or imperfect mixture.

Ron, I liked your first explanation better....hence my joke: I've noticed that with my CD box the car starts better and runs better when I play AC/DC discs. My wife put in a Barry Manalow disc and the damn car wouldn't start.
Ron

Barry, Talk your friend out of using those great cylinders with that case... He needs an old stand by AS 41 case.

Jake, I knew that would cause you to chime in.

PLEASE note that he will need a good reason, to up to a supercase, or the TF-1, which by the way The TF-1 would really be my first choice, its over $1,200 but I think its worth it. to have a all alumiun T-1 with a strong foundation.
I also suggested both of those to him, getting a, "that cost to much" reply. I also tolds him it was of a 356 class alloy and not as strong as the others, but it should hold torque better than a AS 41.
If he keeps very stock inside it should be bulit proof enough for a stock 61 bug and with the nickies he will be able to use the stock doghouse oil cooler. and run 87 octaine fuel.

I still am very determined to have THAT T-4 in my car,when it get's the final state DOT inspection.

Got a new AL case from Car Craft, no probs so far, 8K and going strong ! I'd never go back to a magnesium case when there's so many alternatives out now. Even 911's had problems with their mag cases.

J-P

oops; I mis priced the TF-1 It's closer to $1,500

The Car Craft case. is a super case unit with the separate timing cover.
It is a good case But I feel that the rear plate is just one more place you could have a leak.

I got a mail back from Todd Francis He said the TF-1 Is also 356 alloy .But so heavy casted and renforced ,it would not be a problem for the bigger builds. My concern is the studs working lose or other bolts. Which is way to common on mag cases and almost a never on aluminum.

That kinda torque George. The wrench type that keeps things together.

Yes, it has less oil capacity but with everything drilled for full flow and a 911 reserve tank plumbed in, even that can be cured. But I don't like the extra plumbing .

K.I.S.S.

(Keep it simple stupid), as I often remind myself