What am I doing wrong?

Maybe a "fluid lock" try punching a hole in the old filter, messy but might work to break the lock. My guess.

Gordon, I have the same problem. I use the NAPA 1515 and a JayCee filter adapter. It's difficult to break them loose, my adapter is bolted to the firewall and the glass flexes a bit with the force.

Mine is bolted to the frame, which is good because I have to lean into mine also.

With my 54 f 100 I used to drive a screwdriver through the filter and turn it off.  Worked every time.

It's probably an organ rejection issue.  Sound like you use the new oil on the rubber seal before installing.  Try using the old oil on the rubber seal.  It will help the engine accept the new oil filter transplant with less complications.
-=theron

@Theron posted:

It's probably an organ rejection issue.  Sound like you use the new oil on the rubber seal before installing.  Try using the old oil on the rubber seal.  It will help the engine accept the new oil filter transplant with less complications.
-=theron

Bwaaaahaaaaaaa   That there is way funny ~

my harleys do the same thing, I always assumed it might be from the vibrations ??? they can be a royal PITA.

I just use a oil filter plier type wrench to take mine off but I have plenty of room to do that.

I had a Fram PH 1 filter on a street rod that wouldn't come off no matter what I did and I ended up crushing it in the process.   Thought about it for a minute and looking at the new replacement filter i now had a plan.  Decided to cut the filter and 3/4" from the top. There are 1/4" holes in a circle on the top of the thicker horizontal portion of the filter, I fabricated a  round 1/4" thick plate with 1/4" stainless bolts and nuts secured to the plate that lined u with four holes on the filter top. Used a breaker bar to go between two of the 1/4" stainless bolts and still had to use a foot long pipe extension over the bar , that finally did the job w/o causing any damage.

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Gordon and Danny, I assume you guys must know about the left-hand thread on the MOCAL?

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@IndianBob- Wouldn't it be a lot easier (and cleaner) if the filter was in the fenderwell?

And @Gordon Nichols- On almost every vehicle I've ever owned the filters have always needed a wrench to come off.

After trying just about every type, I’ve found the best oil filter tools are those pressed tin ones that work like a big socket with a 3/8” drive hole in the end. Between all my cars and bikes I think I have every size there is. Fortunately, they nest inside one another like Russian dolls.

@Sacto Mitch posted:

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Gordon and Danny, I assume you guys must know about the left-hand thread on the MOCAL?

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Talk about left handed humour... 

Hell, I never had a problem removing my oil filter.

(1) SLUDGE! 13 Year Late Oil Change & First Start - Daihatsu Cuore Avanzato TR-XX R4 Project Episode 2 - Bing video

Actually, @Theron's response makes the most sense, so I'll try that first.  Thanks!

It hasn't been an issue of not getting the old one off - I have wrenches for that.  It's more about it not being that "glued on" in the first place.  I always thought that smearing the O-ring with oil (new or old) should keep it from sticking later on - guess not.

@ALB - It mounts to the inside of the frame, inboard of the wheel well, with a piece of 3" X 3" Angle stock.  That used to be aluminum but it got torn apart on the last filter replacement so I replaced the aluminum angle with a piece of 3/16" 3" X 3" steel.  THAT should handle it!  Everything - Filter, MOCAL sandwich, fan switch, etc, is inboard of the wheel well for protection.

i have some 16" channel locks that open to 6", fits every filter Iv ever come across

What about a thin smear of grease on the gasket?

@barncobob posted:

i have some 16" channel locks that open to 6", fits every filter Iv ever come across

That's ok if there's room- my first Toyota 4x4 truck (an '86) and later the '94 4Runner didn't have nearly enough room for anything like that though (you're reaching up from underneath to the bottom of the engine, through the front suspension), neither does my son's Honda and the filter on my wife's Mazda CX5 isn't all that accessible either.  The filter removal tools that fit over the end that   @dlearl476 talks about are the answer for a lot of cars.  Funny how we're starting to amass quite the collection here as well...

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Have you tried using a branded Wix instead? Maybe NAPA uses a different gasket material?

Have been using Wix with no problem on a Setrab mount.

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@Sacto Mitch the NAPA Gold is made by WIX, but it can certainly be possible that they have a different material for the O-ring.  Certainly easy to ask for a WIX instead of a NAPA Gold, so I'll try that, too.  At least it sounds like I'm not alone in this.

My filter is easily accessible and I can fit an end-cap filter socket and a 24" breaker bar on it.  That's how I destroyed the aluminum mount last Spring.  Once that was replaced with a steel mount I got the filter off with a bit of grunting.  Just trying to make the whole process a bit closer to "easier".

So I now have a short list of things to try.  Gotta love the spring wake-up tasks.  At least when I checked for mice I didn't find anything (this year)!

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Have never had to use anything more than this crappy thing (but it is easy to work in cramped spaces):

Also handy for opening pickle jars.

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@Sacto Mitch posted:

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Have never had to use anything more than this crappy thing (but it is easy to work in cramped spaces):

Also handy for opening pickle jars.

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And jars of bronzer.

I have a remote filter head and use a MAHLE OC 25 filter and a three jaw puller with the twisting moment at the center of the filter.

https://www.amazon.com/Wittywa...6654575115&psc=1

Mahle is the OEM manufacturer of most Porsche filters and just reboxed