I’m currently using the hex bar linkage but I’m sure there is something better out there, any thoughts?
Mike
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There are always arguments that it's unneeded and unnecessarily, but the Sync-link linkage is the absolute best you can do.
Whether or not it's worth $300 is a subject for discussion. If it works or not is not really debatable. I run one, and love it... as does every last person I know who has used one (Jake Raby, etc. included).
Stan,
Is it difficult to install? I like the way it cleans up the engine bay.
Mike
A somewhat less expensive alternative is a CSP bellcrank linkage. It cleans things up as well, doesn’t wear out and get sloppy, and is also a reasonably easy install. Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures.
Or, at the bottom of the food chain, you could simply convert your existing hex bar linkage to Heim joint bearing ends to take all of the slop out of the linkage. Total cost around $50-60 bucks and an afternoon’s time.
Vintage Speed has the next best one to the one Stan has. I junked out the one I had like yours. They aren't precision enough to do what you want and IF you get it adjusted to your satisfaction, it just doesn't stay that way very long. I'm not bashing what you have by any means but there are definitely better ones out there. Your on the right track by checking what's available.............Bruce
I'm using the Vintage Speed Linkage and like it very much. It's paired with a set of Weber 44 IDF's.
@Stan Galat, it seems like I read that the Sync-Link can't be used with a stock doghouse shroud with the heater hoses coming out of the shroud. Is that the case?
Michael McKelvey posted:@Stan Galat, it seems like I read that the Sync-Link can't be used with a stock doghouse shroud with the heater hoses coming out of the shroud. Is that the case?
Last time I checked, no, though I believe it will work with the more period correct shroud with heater hoses.
Six years using the SyncLink system, zero adjustments needed after initial set-up. Zero issues with idle, acceleration...no surging or hesitation. Prior to SyncLink I had the CB hex bar with Gordon's upgrade, CSP bellcrank and Gene Berg's linkage...no comparison. @DannyP will weigh in here soon and tell you that you can achieve stellar results with the hex bar linkage for far less money and I'm happy for him, but everyone I know who has made the change to SyncLink have had the same results that I have, including my friend and mechanic, @Anthony.
If you're going to spend what appears to be an exorbitant amount of money on a 'trinket' for your beloved plastic potato you should know that you are buying a quality, handmade piece of engineering produced by a true acvw enthusiast. It's a beautiful piece. Next to my 5-speed it's the best mechanical improvement that I've done on Penny in her 15 years.
Terry Nuckels posted:If you're going to spend what appears to be an exorbitant amount of money on a 'trinket' for your beloved plastic potato you should know that you are buying a quality, handmade piece of engineering produced by a true acvw enthusiast. It's a beautiful piece. Next to my 5-speed it's the best mechanical improvement that I've done on Penny in her 15 years.
Don't forget the Vintage Speed shifter. That's got to be in the top 3 as well.
Stan Galat posted:Terry Nuckels posted:If you're going to spend what appears to be an exorbitant amount of money on a 'trinket' for your beloved plastic potato you should know that you are buying a quality, handmade piece of engineering produced by a true acvw enthusiast. It's a beautiful piece. Next to my 5-speed it's the best mechanical improvement that I've done on Penny in her 15 years.
Don't forget the Vintage Speed shifter. That's got to be in the top 3 as well.
True dat. Even more exceptional with the Emory Outlaw shift knob.
Robert:
X2 to what Stan says about your engine.
That is truly a lovely sight.
Bob: IM S6 posted:Robert:
X2 to what Stan says about your engine.
That is truly a lovely sight.
Thank you Bob.
I replaced my CSP shifter with a Vintage Speed. It is indeed very nice but I don't like that the rubber boot is detached at the bottom. I recently replaced the knob with a 356A knob. It was pricey but looks and feels nice.
I will cast another vote for the Vintage Speed linkage. I love it, along with my Vintage Speed shifter and exhaust. Well-made items IMHO.
@Terry Nuckels I don't dispute that the Sync Link works, and works well.
I think I spent $20 on my hexbar conversion, drove 40,000 miles, and replaced the heims(which were not worn) and the soft steel pins that rode in the heims(which were worn). Two grade-8 bolts(5/16"-18), a tap for those, and two heims. Another $20. Ready for another 40k or more.
Quite honestly I'd have to do more fabrication to go from the Morse cable to the Sync-Link cable, due to the Spyder not having a "regular" throttle cable.
I believe that besides the slack from the hexbar ends, a lot of folks have a problem with angles on the downlinks. The length of the downlinks must be exactly the same from the linkage to the carbs AND at the exact same angle in all three axes. I admit this is probably difficult at best in that tight Speedster engine compartment. It is probably best set up on an engine stand.
Or spend $300 and don't concern yourself.
P.S. I have had the same results as y'all with your Sync Links. Some of you have seen my car run and some have driven it. It speaks for itself.
Thanks for response @DannyP! You're right about the difficulty of doing micro adjustments in the engine bay of a speedster - unless it's @Cory Drake's hoopty...
Yeah, he and all us Spyder guys are spoiled.
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