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Ok, to simplify the process, here are some ways of accomplishing the task..

A type IV with a DTM upright fan (Down the Middle) available from Jake Raby. Type IV with a Porsche style fan shroud. Fuel injection or if you want the look, twin Weber's or Delorto's Either way, you'll have an engine (in stock form) that usually out perform most Type 1 engines. Modified, they can be made to produce outrageous torque/horsepower.

Naturally, modification will have to be made but nothing outlandish.
George, you might have good luck with a call to IM.
To put a Type IV in a CMC didn't have to be a whole lot of work, but the fan shroud I chose meant I needed to re-think my decklid.
The Raby shroud (DTM) seems to have been made to put a Type IV in a Beetle, so since Henry's cars come with Type I engines in them ... It should mean you'd have to find a place to put a remote cooler (I'd go with two; a bus cooler AND an 11" or bigger remote) and make sure your decklid will close.
Tinwork around the engine comes with Jake's shroud kit as an option; we used half of it for my car and made the other stuff as we went.
Other stuff came up here and there, like using a spin-on filter, a sandwich plate, braided oil lines and mounting all that hardware.
Pictures are in my folder.
George, I'm not a "D" guy, but the body from the seats back looks pretty similar to me. To my knowledge, there are a few folks here who have used off-the-shelf exhaust parts on their Type IV engines, but I don't have any idea where to get them or from whom.
I had no choice but to go with a scratch-built custom set of pipes; my car is unique.
JPS uses a "RaceAir" fan shroud, which fits quite nicely under the decklid for upright T4 conversions. Runs very cool - I have a cylinder head temp gauge. For exhaust look at BAS, either the 4-1 header or the whole BAS system. Good quality. It works. Probably have to design/fab your own rear engine support if you run a merged header. Not hard to do, plenty of room, just plan it out.

Other option is to use an old bus rear support bar, and fab your own exhaust. Given that choice, I'd rather have an engineered merged header and fab my own support bar.
First off,
200HP today isn't hard to achieve and doing so reliably only takes a tad more effort and expense than doing it the wrong way..

There are many ways you can attain 200HP, but one must remember that peak HP numbers are only effective for bragging rights and the average HP of the engine is what separates the men from the boys as its harder to create, but offers benefits that you'll se EVERY time you drive the car, peak numbers are only seen 5% of the time at maximum- so don't even worry about them unless you have a small penis and need to feel more like a man by bragging about peak power!!!

That being said, most every engine we build today is near or just over 200HP, most of these are built from the same displacements that we have used for years and through development have taken from just over 140HP to 195HP in the past 7 years and have increased reliability and longevity along with power, thus creating the perfect engine program.

Remember that EVERY component within the engine combination and every sub system of the engine will effect your experience with it and how it functions.

BTW_ The capabilities of the TIV engine above are being SERIOUSLY compromised with that exhaust system! The Type 4 is totally exhaust system dependant and I have seen 50% increases as wel asengine faiures come from inadequate TIV exhaust. It is by far the most critical sub system of the engine and can't be skimped on.

Do it once, do it right or you'll be redoing it every weekend.
OK, not that I finally got the move over with and I landed down in San Antonio, TX. I am getting ready for the change. I am leaning toward the Subaru engine. Can you recommend me to an engine or vehicle to look for that would be easier to find and swap? After searching on some swaps it seems like some people use the subaru 5 speed and some use the 915 trans. What are the pros and cons of both?

Keep in mind this would be my first fab. I have a few people at work I will be drawing from for help.
Legacy, Imprezza, WRK, Forester etc. (2.0, 2.2 or 2.5 displacement0

The Subaru transaxle is great but for the most part, it's 4 wheel drive and you have to convert the transaxle to make it work as a 2 wheeld drive unit. I know a man on the spyderclub board that has a 2 wheel drive Subaru transaxle for sale. 915 transaxles are very expensive.

Most Spyder and Speedster owners with Subaru power are using a built VW transaxle either swing or IRS. IF it's built well, it will handle a 150 HP Subaru without any problems.
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