As no two Spyders seem
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Looks like a cowl brace.
With our fiberglass bodies would that piece mainly be for cosmetic nostalgia (so it looks like I'll have to have it!)... not really adding any structural reinforcement?
My guess is that it's a scuff shield. I think a scuff shield may be a good idea in front of the drivers seat on that oval body brace. Since some drivers say that the best way to get out of a Spyder is to push yourself back and up out of the seat far enough to then stand up in thew seat and jump out with out opening the door. That little brace across there is perfect to push against with your feet. It's been on my mind to make and sell these as another accessory to my growing little inventory of folding foot rests, door pulls, wind wings, sun visors, and quick change license plate brackets. Soon there will be my "Transformer" cup holders (at the anodizer now) ! They will come in natural and black. Another cup holder is also in the mill. So far I have made 6 different cup holders. All but 2 are in my fireplace ! luckily I make them out of wood first !
If I don't attend the West Coast Cruise this year, I will make sure one of the "Transformers" is available for the raffle
Andrew Hosking of Type550.com helped.
"...which is both structural integrity of the cockpit area and also for the door to seal properly."
Thanks
That last one.
I'll bet that little gusset prevented the aluminum sill from cracking, being thin aluminum and a slightly flexy ladder frame.
And being that I've driven top-down in pouring rain, that little traingle would prevent water intrusion somewhat. Water does get in the door gap, but worse it goes in from the top. The water goes around the windshield edge then over the edge dripping on your leg, and also running down inside the door gap.
I made a "wind-wing" out of a styrofoam plate from a rest stop, secured with tape(blue 2" of course).
@aircooled I'd recommend some type of anti-scuff there on the bulkhead by your knees. I personally don't step on the bulkhead, nor do I step on the seat unless I'm barefoot. I step NEXT to the seat on the carpet to get in and get out.
I think it's to keep the wind out of the cockpit. But maybe Danny's closer to right.
Yeah wind too. Did original Spyders even bother with door seals? Both my cars had them, and they do work.
Don't be like me. Drive when it ISN'T raining on your 235 mile drive to Carlisle!
You've heard of "Stupid Stan"? Well, sometimes "Stupid Dan" is around/
I recall reading somewhere* that it was to keep water out of the cockpit in the rain. Perhaps it was a low pressure area that sucked water in.
* Could have sworn it was in Ed’s build thread. I guess not.
@aircooled I really like this look, although the price is on the steep side.
https://fibersteel.com/collect...e-hoop-and-bezel-kit
I have ZERO desire for the chassis rail stuff, but the "chassis hoop" or "bulkhead protector" as I call it looks really nice. I'm 150% sure you could make these yourself, charge WAY less, and still make a few dollars!
Wow Danny ! $225 for that ? It's just a strip of aluminum and a little flat plate ! The orbital sanding marks really enhance the finish too !
Stainless would be better. To look right, it should be "L" shaped to cover the top and side of the hoop all in one piece. If done correctly, a left piece should fit the right too. Hmmmm.......Bruce
I think it's one piece, Bruce.
Danny....Yeah, it does look like one piece up close. I was thinking two pieces would be easier to make and also to fit in a car. It would allow for some variance in the curve profile of the chassis hoops. The boxing/packing/shipping would be less too........Bruce
The original spyder had very little for door sealing. It had a thick piece of windlace attached to the front of the door with an aluminum hold down bolted through the door, and the pictured triangle "wind deflector". The3 door seal lip on most replicas gets in the way ope using this piece, and although I have deleted the seal lip on a few cars now, in order to do more period correct trim like pictured, the down side is that you introduce a LOT more wind noise and now the door rattles without the modern seal.
The same goes for things like the functional key latches. they are "neat" but a pain in the a$$ to use and they are a metal on metal hold down that makes a lot of noise.
A lot of people don't realize how much some of these little changes can change all sorts of things...
@chines1 posted:...The same goes for things like the functional key latches. they are "neat" but a pain in the a$$ to use and they are a metal on metal hold down that makes a lot of noise.
A lot of people don't realize how much some of these little changes can change all sorts of things...
I at least have to have functional key latches, no faux spoiler!
I don't want the word on the street that my "clown car" belongs to some poser Subaru-boy-racer.
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@chines1 posted:The original spyder had very little for door sealing. It had a thick piece of windlace attached to the front of the door with an aluminum hold down bolted through the door, and the pictured triangle "wind deflector". The3 door seal lip on most replicas gets in the way ope using this piece, and although I have deleted the seal lip on a few cars now, in order to do more period correct trim like pictured, the down side is that you introduce a LOT more wind noise and now the door rattles without the modern seal.
The same goes for things like the functional key latches. they are "neat" but a pain in the a$$ to use and they are a metal on metal hold down that makes a lot of noise.
A lot of people don't realize how much some of these little changes can change all sorts of things...
Amen.
FWIW, I did make these parts. The stuff Fibersteel gets $225 for was too easy to document. I used aluminum sheet; took me an hour or two start to finish. I believe the originals were sheet steel.
The little "Nabisco corner" along the lower front door edge was way harder. I did that part about five or six times and it's still not quite right.
