What kind of oil?

Just use whatever oil you want(think cheaper!) and a bottle of this:

http://www.zddplus.com/

Very similar to GM's discontinued stuff, and then you don't have to special order or pay a lot for the oil.

So if I switch to Brad Penn, what is needed to flush out the synthetic? Given all of the auxiliary plumbing, getting every drop of the old oil out has been nearly impossible.

I disagree with having to flush the engine.
Different people say different things. If Dyno oil and Synthetic oil don't work together then why do they make blended synthetic/dyno oil.

I've read reports from oil companies that say no probles exist if you swith back and forth between synthetic and dyno oil..

I've never read a comprehensive scientific report that says anything to the contrary. It's usually opinion that the 2 don't mix.


It's like Global Warming. Some are convinced the earths is warming while others know that the earth is moving towards a cooling trend.

Synthetics don't contain chemicals that will cause sludge. When you drain your oil, make sure it's hot and let it drain overnight before refilling with a different compound oil.

Well this topic's pretty much been flogged to death, but I hadda add an extra penny or two of my own.

Seems I've been hearin' just about everywhere that Jake Raby did some sort of oil study a while back and HIS top two recommendations were Brad Penn and Royal Purple, in that order . . .

Good luck to all.... I'll just keep with my own way of doing things.

I will say I've seen the inside of engines that have switched from syn to regular oil and they seem to have an exsessive amount of sludge. One engine that need a total rebuild to flush everything out was a 65,000 mile BMW X5 with a 4.0 V8 engine. This engine came with full synthetic oil from the factory, the customer (original owner) was like a couple of you guys thinking nothing of switching off the synthetic after the first couple of oil changes and started useing regular oil. He came into my dealership after having problems with oil presure (especialy in the morning). After checking oil presure we started looking closer for the oil presure issue (we did not know of the oil switch at this time). We pulled the oil pan and found a 3/4 thich layer of sludge (the sludge was clogging the oil pump). We cleaned the oil pan and recommended pulling the valve covers to check how far this sludge had made it thru the engine. When we pulled the valve covers we found they were full of sludge and carbon (burnt oil due to head temps). We then recommended pulling the intake/valley pan and cleaning all the areas as best as we could, then flushing the engine with additives and oil a few times over the next 3000 miles before going back to a regular oil change pattern. The customer gave us the go ahead. We performed the work but it was too late for the engine, we were able to restore oil presure however after about 500 miles the engine started ticking badly. Some sludge or carbon probably got into the wrong place or the bearing was already bad and was kept from ticking due to a sludge depossit.

You guys beleave what you wan't all I can you is what I've seen first hand. Not read from some report. Sythetic blend is a diffrent moster entirely. Also one of my customers was a engineer for a large oil company and he even warned me of some of the pit falls of mixxing the oils.

I live by the simple fact that what ever you want the out come to be if you read stuff long enjough you'll find "written" facts to support your view....

Good luck......

I too have seen sludge in some of the 200+ VW engines I have built.

In just about every case of sludge, the reason was an overheating engine and or extended oil changes.


Not to say that the brand of type of oil wasn't the culprit but more than likely not.