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Leaving John Steel's shop I coulda used those babies...I did some serious scuff-em-up to Chris' work of automotive art...and that was trying to be careful with the unusual lay of the land, traffic and doing a wheelstand while making a left turn... I need to work on that one.

I did sneak in one indiscression in the hotel parking lot a little later that day...no that wasn't fan belt squeel that awakened a dozing speedster couple...Man! Effortless, no wheel-hop (thank gawd) and the tires just blazed!
GB...
I learned a lot about retro-fitting, probably learned more about the value of keeping my ego (and wallet) in check and the importance of using reliable 'subs/suppliers' to bring my car to its present reality.

One thing that you might provide to those that are about to undertake a build would be an unbiased, if possible, series on the why's and wherefores of certain related components, particularly focusing on the why to do what and at what stage;whether it is a CMC,etc,etc.

Citing specs and components for the sheer joy of one-ups-manship has its place but is like so much regurgitating after a night of drinking, sort of smelly and laced with acidic bile.

*For a GB643nose cone dealie & a torque bar, I am out $400.00
*My transmission is bulletproof at $1100+/-
*My axles & joints are up to the task although I surley could have upgraded them if anyone on my build team felt they were inadequate.
*Same,same for my brakes
*I quit doing LSD in the mid to late 60's and IMHO it has no place in recreational engine building!

So short of the drugs and potential jail time associated with drug use,my suspension mods & tranny costs were what, $1500-1600.00
You probably spend that much to get your wheels polished.

I will say this, having seen a few Intermeccannicas up close and seeing them without your overriding prejuidices,were I in the market today, I too would consider spending the extra money for one. I am afterall committed to the sport (or possibly should be committed because of this sport)but truly, a build scenario of what and why and what sequence could save some of the mechanically inclined a bit of heartburn while they are either building or listing out their mechanical priorities.

No, the things I learned about hot-rodding my car or what my car could really use are of a more intrinsic nature. There is a subtle significance to having big engine output, and were the engine truly broken in, I'd have tossed the keys to a few of my new friends and let them experience the big engine from the driver's seat...

But as it is, there is a perfectly satisfactory Vintage pan-based speedster out here on the left coast that may not hold a candle to Henry's fit and finish, but is providing its owner with a lot of smiles...and I don't think I pissed anybody off or gave anyone a case of the green-eye in the process!
Paul,

Well said and I'll add my 2 cents. Having you blow by me on I-5 in the early morning hours Thursday was mighty impressive to this guy. The sound alone was a joy but the smile on your face was a better statement. Us old guys need their kicks don't we. There is a long list of things to do that with and Paul has found one that I agree with and gives him BIG grins. I was thrilled to see how well your car moved and the obvious pleasure you were having. Says it all.

That aside, Just heard from John Steele and my toasted motor has been pulled apart at the engine guys and a new one will soon be built. New case, pistons,crank, cam, etc, etc. Can use the old carbs,tin, altenator, etc but will be a new engine. Decided to stick with the 1776 with the Gene Berg full circle crank. Car was really storming well when it let go, due to no fault of the engine builder or myself but to a V W shop here that replaced the lines to the oil filter and had them leaning on the exhaust pipe, burned a hole in the line and lunched the engine! Had a talk with that guy today and got no satisfaction except maybe a couple years worth of oil and filter changes and valve adjustments, yikes.

Bruce
Oil light viewing, When the engine blew I was topdown, sun in my eyes, traffic was 3 maybe 4 lanes wide and it was taking my total concentration to avoid the other nut cases out there. After the engine grenaded the lights were ON! Before that, probably but with all the distractions I never noticed them. Talking to John Steele he mention putting a 145 amp red warning light on the dash, probably not all in jest. The time and place were bad for doing an constant obsevation of the guages and light. I do know I had been watching the heat guage going up the Grapevine and everything was cool with that! I'm sure I'd have seen the oil light come on when I was watching the heat guage. Happened between glances! Murphy's law. Anyway, the new heart is being built and hopefully I'll be on my way. One other note about this, I called Haggerty and they arranged for a flatbed pickup but they only picked up $50 of it. It was $185 from pickup to JPS and it wasn't all that far. When I got home the Haggerty renewal was here and they are adding a $100 tow package for an additional $15. I'll take it!

Bruce
I can see Bruces point. Being out in the in the sun can wash out the light and make it hard to see especially when busy driving. This prodded me to install my 914 console with the big 3 1/8" gauges. I keep an eye on them and the pressure gauge really saved my butt when a cooler line blew.
I caught it immediately and stopped. Although I have an "outlaw", I know it wouldn't look right in a traditional car, but If I did have a traditional car, I'd have a 904 cluster gauge like GB has that shows oil pressure, for sure.

BD
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