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First thing, don't use spacers. Send the wheels to a shop and have them cut and re-welded. You can also just have the centers cut and welded closer to the hub and that will give you a wider track but you're better off having a piece of metal welded into the center of the wheel and make the width of the rim wider. I wouldn't go beyond 6" rim width as you will probably have issues with tire rub.

Do some measuring before you do anything
I have 1/2" or 3/8" on my front 2L Fuchs to clear the calipers and for the center caps to clear the wheel bearing caps. The 914 has very long lug bolts so still have enough treads in the disc rotors. It fills out the front wheel wells better to. Don't use spacers without going to longer bolts or use stud with lug nuts. I suspect it does put extra stain on the wheel bearings but so does spirited driving.

Oh, dropped spindles will also increase front track by about 1/2" per side too.
While I agree that no spacers and properly dished wheels is the best way to go, I've been running 1 1/8" spacers on all four wheels for years with no problems, even with occasional track days of moderately hard driving. I had to adapt Porsche (Fuchs) wheels to VW hubs AND space them out to look proper with flared fenders.

The set I'm running adapt from 4-130 VW bolt pattern to 5-130 Porsche pattern. I got them from Pelican Parts for about $125 per adapter and they are machined, billet aluminum, hub-centric and no measurable run-out in any direction on my run-out gauges. They're so pretty, they look like jewelry, (honest!) but you can't see them on the car.

So, yes, they work OK, but you have to ask if you couldn't just get custom-dished wheels made for the $500 cost adder over a set of stock wheels. So if custom dished wheels are about $125 more per wheel than stock, go that route.

gn
I was running a pair of 2 1/8 inch front wheel spacers on my flared speedy for many years. They were needed due to the offset on the Fuchs wheels. Driving was OK, but bumps can cause a severe kick back and parking got to be a real PITA.

This condition is called "scrub radius". It is the distance, measured at ground level, between the exact center of the tire tread and the imaginary point where a vertical line thru BOTH ball joints hits the ground. Ideally this dimension is something between zero and 1 inch inboard. I was running at least 3 inches!

Problem solved by fabricatting a custom front beam about 5 inches wider than stock (I got flares, remember). WAL-AHH - power steering! Better road fell and easier driving. Admittedly, not a solution for everybody, but I love it.

Anybody need some 2 1/8 wheel spacers, complete with pressed in studs, 5.x 130 by 5 x 130?

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