Well one of my studs won;t torque down how do you fix this? Is it safe to travel with only 4 of them torqued?
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@Alan Merklin any ideas?
Assume they are thread in studs and not pressed in? Are threads in rotor still intact and not stripped? If so use Loctite red threadlock on all the screw in studs. Let it sit for 24 hours and you'll have to heat them to remove them in the future. If threads are gone - Probably too big a hole to go to pressed in studs so only safe choice is remove rotor and have holes partially welded up and retapped for a new stud. You mihgt find oversided base studs - I've seen them for VW stud sizes. I wouldn't try to use any of the thread inserts like helicoil for a wheel stud.
Is it stripped in the hub or is the stud itself stripped?
If the stud itself is stripped, those are not pressed in studs. There's a socket head on the end of each of them, in which will fit the appropriate sized allen wrench. If it doesn't back right out, you'll need to apply some heat. Lots and lots of VW places sell the studs.
If it's stripped in the hub, you have two choices, both of which involve removing the caliper and then the hub. We can get into that once we know what you're talking about.
A Stan said let us know which is stripped , there's a fix for both.
Well I tightened the bolt, or rather the nut, and the whole thing just keeps on turning so I take it the stud is stripped within the hub as the whole kit and caboudle is turning.
Should I try to remove the whole thing, or untighten it to see what happens.
Well I went back and tried to remove the wheel but and it spins into nothingness both ways either trying to loosen or thighten so it will be no fun trying to get this nut off
If wheel is on like first photo - it will be hard to remove cliper and the center rotor nut to get the rotor assembly off. If it is open nut vs an acorn closed nut - you can use an allen wrench in the center hole. You'll most likely have to use center punch and drill thru center of alloy nut with increasingly sized titanium drill bits (and oil to prevent over heating). Ya might be able to expose the allen wrench hole - or keep drilling to larger size. Have a six pack handy.
Sometimes, if you use an (air) impact, and rock on the nut, you can spin it off. Otherwise-- get out the drill.
The lugnut is toast, no matter what.
I wonder if I removed all the 4 others and then pulled on the wheel as I spin the nut if I could pull the wheel and hence the stud out?
It's certainly worth a try.
If I have to remove the hub itself I might as well order a new set with the screw in studs that way I don't have to have it welded retapped let alone find a VW 14 mm stud where I live. Next to impossible I have to order everything I wonder if @David Stroud IM Roadster D knows where to get these parts.
I don't know whether you have pressed in studs (American style) or threaded in studs as I have on my hubs, but it sounds like you have a press-in stud that has become stripped in the hole - that's why it's spinning in either direction but not coming out.
You're not going to be able to pull the stud out because it is flanged on the inside of the hub.
So, remove the other four nuts, then put the bad nut at the bottom (6 o'clock) position and, while pulling the top (12 o'clock) of the wheel towards you to use as a lever to hold the stud fast against the hub, use an impact wrench to spin the lug nut off. A bat handle won't do this, it must be an impact wrench (set on "high) and you'll need to apply lots of torque to the wheel as a lever to crimp the stud fast against the hub to hold it.
The only other alternative I can think of is to remove the center cap from the wheel and you should be able to get some needle-nose pliers in there to remove the cotter pin from the hub nut, then use a 36mm socket on an impact wrench (with e-brake applied hard) to remove the hub. You'll need to remove the caliper or caliper mount (with caliper attached ) to allow the hub to be removed with the wheel still attached. Then use an angle grinder to gently remove the stud head enough to let the stud pull through the hub flange. You may be able to get some heavy duty vice grips on the stud flange to hold it so an impact wrench can remove the nut, but that's a long shot.
That was one of the two options I was alluding to above. They're cheap. CIP1 will have something, but you'll need to call. EMPI rotors, you want the 5 x 130 rotors, with the 14 mm studs installed.
Gordon I believe they are screwed in studs so I will give it a shot but it will be a pain to do that for sure.
Thanks you guys for all the help.
I'm pretty sure it's not a pressed in stud.
Well, if it is a screwed in stud and the stud is stripped, then using the same leverage technique should pull the exposed inner end of the stud (which I assume still has threads on the exposed 1/4" of stud and holding it in) into the stripped hole and the impact driver should either spin it out or proceed to strip the remaining threads off of the end of the stud. Either way, it should come out with enough leverage or impact torque, right?
Or maybe the wheel will get loose enough to allow the nut to spin off of the stud (while holding the wheel as a lever against the hub).
That's all I've got.
Try removing the other lug nuts then rotate the wheel so that the remaining lug is at the 6 o'clock position. Jack under the center of the tire until you have the car's weight securely on the jack. Hopefully the hole in the rim will have enough tension against the threaded stud to remove the lug nut.
Once you get it off, CIP1 will have the rotor you need.
At that point, it's only money.
Which method ? How bad are the rotor threads?
So the unit is stripped for sure emailed cip1
Alan Merklin posted:Which method?
Well I lifted the car on my quick jack
after loosening the nuts then stud at 6pm and all others off and with weight off pull by hand on inner wheel spoke and spin with battery impact and off it came
no damage to anything and especially the fuch
Pop a top on one of those Molson's!
There must be something wrong with me, because that was a fascinating exchange.
Call a couple of machine shops and see if they'll weld up the hole drill and tap it , a lot cheaper than buying a new rotor.
Good idea. Too bad, I still will have to take the hub off and have them do it and getting a 14 mm screw in stud might be the issue getting it done here. No VW dealer stuff here,
Tomorrows Saturday, so we will see what I can do with all the places essentially closed.
If I've got your story right, you have a stripped out rotor stud hole. Oversized studs are available in Ottawa at your local VW dealer. I had a stripped out situation in my Speedster brake drums and had to buy a very nice tap from an outfit in Kanata recommended quietly by and not available from the tool and equipment joint in Bells Corners. I'll let you use my tap for a six pack and a good dirty joke. 
I think your cure is right here in Ottawa. I redid about four of twenty on the brake drums of my Speedster.
I should introduce you sometime to Ken Baird at Main Street Auto in North Gower. He's a very versatile fellow, works for a very fair rate and has many contacts in various import specialty applications in the area.
I will check out Myers I think they are the only VW dealer parts dept open on Saturdays as of June.
But I think Alan's idea makes the process more precise as you could be off by tapping the hole and it may or may not affect the wheel balance. Just saying...
IaM-Ray posted:I will check out Myers I think they are the only VW dealer parts dept open on Saturdays as of June.
But I think Alan's idea makes the process more precise as you could be off by tapping the hole and it may or may not affect the wheel balance. Just saying...
Myers Kanata VW knows my Speedster. They'd love to see your car. Make sure Nancy comes out to see it. Keep your shades on. 
Drill and tap will be concentric not affecting balance. Not sure if welding, then drill and tap would not cause more imbalance. Certainly more $$$.
I guess I can get around on 4 lugs instead of 5 until I get it sorted. Actually, on second thought NOT...
IaM-Ray posted:Alan Merklin posted:Which method?
Well I lifted the car on my quick jack
What model quick jack do you have? Would you recommend it?
after loosening the nuts then stud at 6pm and all others off and with weight off pull by hand on inner wheel spoke and spin with battery impact and off it came
no damage to anything and especially the fuch
What model quick jack do you have? Would you recommend it?
Glad you are on moving in a positive direction - sorry you are having the issue.
Nice Fuchs. I'm running Fuchs too. Sometimes I wonder about changing 'shoes'. I have a set of 5.5 x 15 Flat Fuchs (on my 912) and a set of steelies, all OEM 5x130's bolt pattern. Love the stepped 16" Fuchs.
A new rotor will be less than $50. A machine shop welding and tapping would be a lot more than that in a union town.
Glad you removed it, Ray. I also think that the oversized stud approach is the best way to go, too. Helluva lot cheaper than a whole new hub for want of just a bigger bolt. You'll need to remove the hub to get the hole sized and tap straight, but that's no biggie for you. You might want to decide whether to do the other four holes in that hub so they'll be the same in the future, but you and Dave can decide what's best there.
Plus you get to visit with Dave and BS about cars!
New rotor, places that stock them are few and far between eBay has then for $64 bucks but probably are Chinese crap. NAPA might be able to get you a decent rotor though. Adding to the cost is a new wheel bearing and race, the right way to do things. With that in mind that's why I suggested calling couple machine shops if would take under an hour to do the job and have it back on the car same day. Both shops that I use would do it on bartering terms for a $24 case of Coors Light
Understood.
Just keeping in mind that he's got "multi-drilled" EMPI rotors (both early-VW 4 and late-Porsche 5), and everybody else is using the same rotors, just drilled for 4-lug.
NAPA will only have the 4-lug drilling, and the stuff on eBay is the same stuff CIP1 (and everybody else) is selling. What he's got is the same EMPI stuff, so welding/tapping it will give him repaired Chinese EMPI rotors. Most of us can't (or won't) walk into a place looking to barter beer for machine work. In my part of the world-- it'd take a week and cost $150, assuming one could even find a shop to do it.
ZFNHSN posted:IaM-Ray posted:Alan Merklin posted:Which method?
Well I lifted the car on my quick jack
What model quick jack do you have? Would you recommend it?
after loosening the nuts then stud at 6pm and all others off and with weight off pull by hand on inner wheel spoke and spin with battery impact and off it came
no damage to anything and especially the fuch
What model quick jack do you have? Would you recommend it?
Glad you are on moving in a positive direction - sorry you are having the issue.
Nice Fuchs. I'm running Fuchs too. Sometimes I wonder about changing 'shoes'. I have a set of 5.5 x 15 Flat Fuchs (on my 912) and a set of steelies, all OEM 5x130's bolt pattern. Love the stepped 16" Fuchs.
Thanks I love the quick jack original 3500lb unit it fits exactly at the right spots
The only issue is that the Jack must fit the jacking points so it will not work with my 2019 Jetta
I’m thinking of having an extension made that will fit into the jack holes. quick Jack sells them for other units I would have to make my own to fit in and be lock-in and be removable
But they work really well for my roadster the car is up in two minutes