wheelbase

Seriously, Live with it.  It would be a major big deal to fix it.

Yeah, re-arching the wheelwells is being done but not by many. 

I guess i can live with it, it just bothers me everytime i walk by them lol

Well if you ever paint the car it can be another area to work on in your goal to achieve perfection  

Thanks guys, it is a new cmc body never been painted still in white gelcoat, so rearching may be in the plan,

FYI, I only know of one car who has done it on this list and it quite a body work change.

Add 2 caster shims per side with a longer bottom bolt and it will help move wheels forward a bit. Using beam adjusters will also help - dropped spindles probably will not.

I've seen photos of OEM Speedsters and I don't think their wheels were centered.

The silver car on my profile use to be a widebody, i bodyworked it into a classic, so re-arching shouldnt be a problem

Im just looking for ways around all the itching bodywork,

The one IaM-RAY posted is actually an IM with the Porsche 914 front suspension.  VS models show the non-centered wheel too.

Isn't this a function of how much or little caster that is set into the VW  H beam axle.  My FF widebody has the suggested amount of caster set in with shims and the wheels appear centered in the wheel wells. Could this also be a factor of the car builder not cutting the pan down to the correct dimension?

 On My Speedster the rear passenger side wheel has a different spacing than the drivers side which I have rectified with an additional 1/8" wheel spacer on one side. I have heard all the CMC/FF widebody cars are like this. Others may know more.

Well if you want you can sculp the front and rear fender arches to your hearts content and even hide the rear wheels with aprons.  Just saying. 

Aprons on a black classic 356 would look pretty rad. But that might be the Hispanic in me talking.

Low and slow dude.

Jimmy:  Yes, all CMC and FF cars seem to sit a little to one side unless the builder noticed the difference as the body was being mated to the pan and compensated for it.  This (centering the rear) and adjusting the front wheels versus the opening are best done when the body is being mated, but most people never checked and just put them together.

John:  If you want to move the front wheels forward (only) in the wheel wells AND you don't need to move them more than an inch, you could consider having a pair of spacers made for where the beam bolts attach the beam to the pan headset.  They would have to be made from harder aluminum billet (or steel) and could simplify the process a bit but they would have to fit the curved spaces where the beam and headset come together.  You would then have to slightly reposition the steering column to accommodate the beam moving forward (easy), but that's all I can think of to do.

That would seem to make the least amount of work.

On the CMC if the VW pan is cut wrong then the 2 bolts either side up front and the one to shock tower in back won't line up to the steel sub-frame.  You could make spacers out of pipe half's as Gordon said and use the longer bolts for the H beam and move it forward maybe 1/2 an inch.

You can also bump the body to the rear a bit that will " move the front wheels " closer to center in the wheel well.  Also you can bump the rear of the body a bit L & R to get your best even measurment tire to wheel well lip but you'll have to open the hole in the flat rear mounting plates to align that with the factory threaded holes . You can also omit the factory pan gasket on the rear arch and that will allow for increased " adjustment too.  Caulk the arch later.

I noticed where the rear frame rail goes up, the torsion cover is right against it, the four front body mount holes in the front the bolts dropped right in without a problem. everything else lines up correctly.

Another OEM car -