Wheelbase dilemna - Resolved

Well, many of you weighed-in on how to solve a short wheelbase problem, and at the end of the day, I had to make a custom part to space the wheels out 1.5".
Here it is: The file attached, "Spacer" is made from a 1" thick piece of steel. The "cups" fit the torsion tubes, while the "protrusions" fit the frame head. The three holes are for 1" long separators. 4 Spacers and 6 Separators are required; two Spacers and 3 separators per side. I also re-installed 2 caster shim sets on the lower torsion tube. I also had a set of 12mm X 150mm studs made to replace the suspention bolts. Careful on these, the thread pitch is 1.5mm - medium pitch. I also put some extra length on these to engage the frame head threads better than they were. All totaled: ~$125.
Wheels came out great; right on center. The steering column moved ~1" forward, and the steering damper required a 3/4" spacer on the torsion tube mount to keep it off the frame head. By and large, a success.
If you're interested, let me know, and the detailed drawings can be provided for fabrication. I'm prepared to discuss the innevitable wheel/frame/bolt load comments you might have, so please ask...I'm out of space!!
-Tim

Really elegant solution and execution!!

TC

Tim
Great job! Now let's see what you can do for a better mouse trap!

Alan,
. . .I have solutions in a variety of gauges...

I just bought a CMC wided that was started and never finished...It looks to me that my wheelbase is not long enough due to front wheels are not centered in wheelwell..Is this your solution for such a problem?

wide body not wided...sorry

Bill,
Yes, this was basically my problem. There was a bit of an issue years ago with how much to shorten the wheelbase, and I'm sure some folks were caught on the wrong side of the fence. I have heard that there were some FiberFab manuals with the wrong spec. in them, so I'm sure there are more of "us" out there. You can look at a few of my posts to see my pictures, and the thread entitled, "Wheelbase Dilemna", for the questions I posted. Another guy (?) also showed his, which had the same problem, but he liked the look.
As with all modifications there were a few concessions. The Steering radius is now larger due to the arm hitting the head sooner in its arc than before. Not unmanagable though. My steering column and shaft were long enough, so I had no problem there. Several things will have to move around, like the vertical body support that sits on the upper torsion bar. I had to cut the bottom piece and drill some new holes, but no biggie. The front bumper supports may have to shorten as well depending on where they currently sit.
If you would like, I can post a set drawings for fabrication for whatever offset you need; mine was 1.5". I can also do a bit better maybe with the list of changes...just let me know.
-Tim

Drawings would be great...Mine also is almost exactly 1 1/2 inch back from center. Do you have pics of before and after and of finished install of piece? How much time did it take to do the mods?

Bill,
Sorry, I haven't been on in a while. The install took about 2-1/2 hrs., over two days. I didn't have to remove anything but the wheels, and the front bumper brackets. My fiberglass front end supports (the vertical fiberglass webs that bolt to the bumper brackets and support the front end) were not glassed in place at the time. They have to be narrowed up to accomodate the new position of the torsion bars. You also should disconnect the steering shaft from the coupling.
To begin, I removed the front suspension bolts one at a time and replaced them with the studs. The extra length allowed the suspension to move around enough for the spacer installation. I put the separaters on the two 'outer-most' spacers before installing them, which required less rotation to get in place than the inner spacers. Bolting the inner spacers to the separaters completed the assemblies. If you use caster shims, they should be placed next, and then the nuts were tightened onto the studs. Rotating the tightening sequence was required as the studs would 'un-load' when the others were snugged up.
That's basically it. That being said, you may run into some troubles along the way; every project has its own story to tell in the end. It went better than I thought it would. Now, my problem is that the 2-1/2 in. drop spindles lower the front too much, and allow the body scrape the driveway lip every time...One more thing to do!!
I'll post some "after shots", and a drawing to look at. Let me know of any specific questions you might have. You can e-mail me at my link address.
-Tim

Tim
I still could use the spec drawings you have of the spacer if you get a chance...Thanks

Tim,

I could use a set of drawings as well, if you could email them to me or maybe even post them here for us all?

Thanks a lot!

TC