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My body has flares, but the process would be the same:

Are you using a 3/4 inch adapter (adapter bolts to rotor/drum using existing studs, then the wheel bolts to adapter using second set of studs pressed into adapter, two seperate sets of wheel nuts required for each wheel) or a 3/4 inch spacer (one piece of aluminum with holes in it, uses one set of longer wheel studs)?

I had a set of 1.5 inch adapters machined down to 1.3 inches, while still maintaining stud integrity. Had to hog out the chamfer on the inside also. These worked just fine.

If you have spacers, you may need thinner spacers, and similarily shorter wheel studs, to maintain your existing wheels.

Front spacer/adapter does NOT have to be same thickness as rear spacer/adapter. Slight differences in tread width will not be noticeable or affect vehicle handling. Hope this helps.
OK the rest of the story. I have 24" diam. 15X8" wheels and tires with a 5X4.75 bolt pattern. The have been adapted by a 3/4" plate so they can be pounted on a 4X130 VW hub on a dropped spindle. Stockton Wheel said they could reweld the centers of the wheels so that they got moved inboard 2" for $65 per wheel. This means I would keep the smoothies that are on the car now if I got them altered. Another option is that I have a set of undrilled hubs that I can have drilled to whatever I want. This might be my better option since I could then get the wheels that I really prefer ( alloy spokes). I haven't figured out how to know for sure that they would work in my application. The cars I've seen on this site are beautiful, so someone has figured it out. Maybe they would share what they did for wheels. Thanks, Mike
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