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I just test fitted Boxter turbo twists 17 x 8.5 x 55mm offset on the rear using early 944 trailing arms that are 25mm per side wider than a Bug.
Tyres are 245/40

Has about an inch of clearance to the outside of the fender, but note the offset is all to the inside.

My front end is not VW so the wheel size data is not applicable.
In any case they are 17 x 7
OK, here you go:

16" X 7" Fuchs Forged wheel

Rear Dish from mating flanges to rim lip = 4-9/16"

Front dish from mating flanges to rim lip = 2-9/16"

Tire "pooch" from rim to outer surface of tire = 24/32"

The tread starts at about half that distance (12/32") - In other words, the sidewall sticks out a bit farther than the edge of the tread (called the "pooch", in dune buggy jargon)

I have wheel adapters that are 1" +-.000, so the stack-up is:

drum flange= 0
adapter = 1"
outer lip = 2-9/16
pooch = 12/16
fender gap = 12/16
-------------------
Total from drum flange to fender = 5-1/16"

and since we all know that there's ALWAYS side-to-side centering variation on CMC bodies, I would give it at least 1/4"+ less to be safe. Like a max of 4-3/4" or so (to allow squirrel road kill to slip by)

gn
Gordon,
Proper point about lack of side to side body symmetry. For a "fine tune", alluminum wheel spacers of 1/4 and 1/8 are readily available. Just keep a good eye on full engagement of the nuts to stud. Rule of thumb, you MUST HAVE a minimum engagement equal to one full stud diameter. If not, get longer studs - also available for not much money, and in many incremental lengths. More engagement is better.

IMHO you can carry no spacers on one side and 1/4 spacers on the other, and you'll never know the difference. I'm even doing that on an open IRS rear with no evident ill effect.
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