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Here, if you're engine's like mine. The first photo has an orange doohickey right in the middle. There's a screen inside of that, so not there. There's a bolt in that shot, too. Not there. That's the oil-drain plug.
The second picture has a second orange plate in the upper, right corner of the photo. It has a nipple right in the middle of it. I got rid of that, and welded the sending end of the temperature gauge in its place.
If your engine's not like mine, then check right directly under the point where your dipstick ends for something similar.
You can see the hollow tube coming off of it and heading forward in the third shot.

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Cory has a TIV (Type 4 VW 411/412 - Porsche 914 engine) which has a second sump plate. If yours is a T1 (std bug) engine then it doesn't have that plate. Easiest is to use a dip stick temperature sender - which replaces the normal dip stick. Alternative is to tap the case or add one inline to an external oil cooler. Some bug sump plates do have a drain plug threaded in the center - guess that would be another possibility - but it will stick down quite low and the oil flow isn't great there so it will read lower that oil actually is. If its for a VDO gauge - try this part:

https://secure.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=837
On a Type-1 (VW) engine, the temp gauge sending unit goes into the same threaded hole that the oil pressure switch sending unit goes into.

Find your distributor. Just to the right of the distributor there is a threaded hole in the engine case (it is horizontal, whereas the Distributor is (more or less) vertical. That hole is used for the oil pressure switch (that makes the light in your dash gauge light up when your oil pressure drops too low).

Lots of after-market companies (CB Performance, SOCal Imports, CIP1, etc.) sell an adapter that you thread into that hole (once the oil pressure switch is removed) that has threaded holes for BOTH an oil pressure switch AND a temp sending unit.

BTW: DO NOT use teflon tape to seal the threads on either the adapter or either of the sending units. Instead, use a good quality, high temp, thread sealant and don't over-thighten the adapter or the sending units.

I have my sender fitted into the oil drain plate, just screwed it into the drain hole in the center. Is that a better or worse place than the oil pressure switch galley? I thought of splicing a couple of "T's" before and after the cooler, screw in some gauges, just to see if the temp was radically different before and after, but that week the driver's floor finally rotted out and the seat fell through and I had other issues to attend to.

The car hasn't moved since September . . .
blake,
The sender can go several places. It depends somewhat on what size threads your sender has.
You can drill and tap a hole in the case (during assembly) and put it anywhere in the sump portion of the case thats convenient and puts the sender in the oil.
OR.
Check this page out. VDO makes a sender that replaces your oil pressure relief valve plug. That's a good spot also.
OR
you can use the set-up suggested by Gordon. That works too. If you have a sender already, determine the threads and size of it. That'll dictate where you install it.

If you don't have one,
Take a look here for some examples of different size senders.
http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1758
Greg
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