Where is the brake light switch in the Vintage Speedster?

Brake lights not working for some reason.

Behind the left front wheel in the bulkhead.

...and screwed into the master cylinder, has either 2 or 3 wires.

If lights are not working, just start swapping leads on the switch(s) that are screwed into the master cylinder (I have two). That got my lights working again - until the next faillure. Then I will have to actually replace a switch.

For proper wiring of the stop light switches mounted on the dual circuit master cylinder, click on the "Library" tab, then on the "Speedster wiring diagram, then on sheet "2" of the diagram. Look at the bottom/center to find the pair of brake (pressure) switches.

If both of the switches are functional, the brake lights work. If only one of the switches are functional the brake lights still work, but a dash mounted warning light informs you that one of the two switches are bad.

My 2007 Vintage only has one brake light switch. They cost about $6.00 and take about 5 minutes to replace, so it's hardly even worth crawling under there to look at it without a new one in your hand.
Troy

For future reference - do you have to bleed the brakes when you change a brake light switch?

Good question. I didn't.

The OEM ones actually had a rubber boot over each screwin switch to heep road stuff off the. I doubt few replace or use the boots now so alot of the problems are corrosion of the spade wire connectors. The new aftermarket switches (China/MX) are really bad quality compared to those from Das Fatherland.

should you? yes, you are opening the sealed system to air.

I've done it both ways and know it can be done without bleeding the brakes.

If i were you, in there already, i'd do the front drivers wheel. you already are under the car. it's another 3 minutes with a helper to push the brake peddle.

If you choose to by lazy, as I used to on my MG Midget (it actually used a VW brake light switch), you can fill the switch up with fluid before you put it in. Be sure to CAREFULLY pop the bubble that will inevitably form in the small reservoir in the switch (use a wooden toothpick). You can also load up where it came from with a little extra fluid, being aware that it will be messy when you put the switch in. Tighten, hook up, and clean up. The major difference is that the MG's switch was located away from the master cylinder at a junction point for the brake lines. I never had to bleed the Midget's brakes afterward. But it went through three switches in 10 years. Coincidence? I dunno.

Thanks, I'll check it out.