Which Brad Penn oil?

I'm trying to decided which weight of Brad Penn oil I should use. I plan on breaking in the engine with Brad Penn Break-in SAE 30 (easy choice), but once the engine is broken in I'm unsure what weight of oil I should use.
Here are my choices:
10/30
10/40
20/50

I've done some reading on SAMBA, but couldn't find a definitive answer.
When I originally owned the car (5 years ago) I used 20/50.

for our climate: 10w30

i just bought $120 worth of BP oil. mostly break in 30w

have you talked to Jeff at pacific western performance? he'll say 20w 50 since all the 200-300hp 911's run it. unless you have a fire-breather that you'll be ripping around in, then a lighter oil will not make you run super hot.

Jake Raby's recommendatuion for my engine:

Winter, Brad Pitt, 10 w 30

Summer, Brad Pitt, 20 w 40

I just made the changeover this past weekend gearing up for the Morro Bay trip.

My car has been sitting without being driven---just started weekly
since January, and there was not a single drop of oil on the garage floor.

"Brad Pitt"? Why Jack, what in the world is on your mind, anyway? ;-)

I USE 40 IN THE SUMMER
30 IN THE WINTER

We're takin Kanada here; as in 1 month of summer
Dont they make 5-30 ??

Lane---that is funny---Of course I meant Brad Penn. Jeez I can't even stand Brad Pitt! I shudda re read and fixed my post before the edit feature went away. I believe everyone knew what I meant though.

a point worth mentioning is your local climate.

Ron and I are above the 49th, and don't experience a ton of smoking hot days. The 20w40 would be good for a looser engine in our climate.

An I am in the near-tropics and use 20w-50. Heck, we've already been well into the 80s and it's only the first week of April.

I bought a case of BP 10/30 from Jeff last year for my Miata and Ford Ranger. I may stick with 10/30. That way I can run the same oil in all three vehicles.

You might want to consider Valvoline Racing Oil. Cheaper than Brad Penn and has all the zinc you will ever need right off the shelf at your friendly local auto parts store. I have always used Valvoline Racing Oil in hot rods and have NEVER had an oil related wear issue.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/high-performance-motor-oil/

Builder sent the engine to me new w/ Valvoline, and then reading all here and then some, went w/ the Brad-Pitt/Penn 10/30. Anybody know why its green??

No, but don't you feel better about yourself because it is? ;-)

Well, I think I know why 'cause the guy that sold it to me told me why HE used it, w/ the green color figuring prominently on his list. I'm just not tellin'' -- not yet. Want to see what anybody else knows.

CAUSE IT COSTS SO MUCH

Irish oil is always green

Swepco transaxle oil is blue

Mixed together the oil will be Teal

Pennsylvania crude comes out of the ground green, but it's not that color after refining these days. Gets that color from the additives they use. Their motorcycle oil is green too, but that's actually green dye. Pennsylvania oil has higher levels of paraffin too.

Ron, I changed from Castrol 20w-50 to B. Penn 10w-30 . I get easier starting , faster warm-up and a smoother idle. I haven't run it at high ambient temps yet but so far my oil temps have come down 10-15 degs. on an 1835 cc motor. I'm in upstate N.Y.
You can try it and if you don't like it you can switch it to one of your other vehicles.
The 20w-50 Castrol leaked slightly , the B. Penn leaks slightly more but not excessively.

I guess I am lucky because since I got my car home last January, not a single drop of the Brad Penn oil has hit my garage floor! The engine is totally dry everywhere except the inside!

On some of my other VWs, when the engine stopped leaking oil, that meant to add more!

Yeah Jack, if I were you I'd check to make sure there's some in there! ;-)

well. the guy I got mine from said he liked the B-P green oil because he could always tell when/where the oil leak was. Differntiated from other possible bodily fluids a race car might exude. I guess when you're racing, that info could be important.

This is the first air cooled engine that I actually have to use the dipstick to see if there's oil in there cuz it sure ain't on the floor
any more.

What's the scoupe with the synthetics and our engines? What are the pros and cons? Should it not be used at all?

"Common knowledge" is that they will leak profusely. I ran Royal Purple for a while and it did its job well, but I had such a leak in the internal cooler pedestal that I couldn't tell you if new leaks cropped up. It DID seem to leak a bit worse with the RP.

Lane, I am pretty sure that is what my german mechanic is using on my engine. I dont have any leaks to my knowledge. I found a source in Villa Park, IL that can get Brad Pitt oops, I ment Penn. So I will use that for my spring oil change. Is fourty weight ok for spring/summer? Or should I say from 60 to 80 degrees outside.

i put synthetic grar oil in tranny and the axle seals started to leak so i changed it back to dino.

I'm not an expert, Marty, but I would think 10w-40 or 20w-50 would be good for summer. I run 20-50 all year round, but it doesn't get that cold here in the winter. As hot as it gets in Chicago in the summer, I doubt that you'd want to go lower than 10w-40.

Grazie!

Marty