Which engine is this

Type 1

Thank you! All I know it is a 2332cc aircooled engine with 145hp

c

84 mm stroker cam and 94 mm pistons and cylinders.  Good size engine and 145 hp is probably right.

@Carlos P posted:

All I know it is a 2332cc aircooled engine with 145hp

@WOLFGANG posted:

84 mm stroker cam and 94 mm pistons and cylinders.  Good size engine and 145 hp is probably right.

As @edsnova said, it's a type 1 engine.  With the dual Kadrons (with bigger venturis), I'm guessing a camshaft/rocker combo that goes to 5,000 (or a touch more) rpm with power and lifts the valves to over .450", Los Panchitos cnc'd heads, 8½:1 cr and 1½" exhaust.  It'd be a stump puller from about 1500 rpm and up.  I think the Kadrons would be just about at their limit, and I'd also guess that even with the longer 3.88 r&p it would be surprisingly quick off the line...  Al

Opps cam = crank shaft

@WOLFGANG posted:

Opps cam = crank shaft

We all knew what you meant Greg...

Same engine as mine. It's an upgraded base engine but not the bigger Type IV.

Dumb question: How do you tell a T1 and T-IV apart from pictures? I understand a T-IV is flat in its normal environment, but in a Speedster/Spyder they’d have the upright fan kit.

Is it the fuel pump block off? Oil filler?

T4's used in US 914's and 411/412 were fuel injected so electric pump.  Early T2 Bus  ('72 up to about '75?) were dual Solex carbs so manual fuel pump.  All T4 has place for the spin on oild filter near the horizontal larger than T1 air filter.  Oil filler and dip stick are different on T4 than on T1 but varied even on T4 applications.  A flat OEM T4 can fit in a speedster and I suspect a Spyder.  I think in flat form it is easier to work on than with upright cooling.  Upright conversion generally means loosing the thermostat too.  Heat exchanges - and the mounting to the engine is very different - being on the bottom vs at either end.  Near all T4 have an aluminum cases (a very few are early ones were magnesium) -- all OEM T1 were magnesium (but aftermarket one are aluminum now). On t4 you can remove/replace pushrod tubes with heads on - on T1 you need to remove heads (or use adjustable tubes).

T4:

I understand the difference between a T1 and a T-IV. I was asking how you tell the difference from the above photo.

It is hard to tell with an upright conversion, Dave. But yeah, the fuel pump block-off is a dead giveaway in an upright conversion.

@dlearl476 asked “I was asking how you tell the difference from the above photo.”

Well, basically, you can’t.

If you can look up under the back end of the car, you can look for the spin-on oil filter, but the BIG give-away is that the T1 exhaust exits horizontally, while a T4 exits vertically, down.  (But you could never discern that from the photo).  

This was kind-of an issue when I got my Massachusetts replica registration, because the engine supposedly has to be what was in a ‘57 Porsche Speedster, a 1,600cc.  Unless you tear down and measure the engine internals, how you evah gonnah know what it is from the outside??

Most all upright T4 conversions don't use the T1 shroud - except Joe Cali DIY version --- with that one the alt stand is home made and the oil filler is not in engine center but to rear (near pulley).

@DannyP posted:

It is hard to tell with an upright conversion, Dave. But yeah, the fuel pump block-off is a dead giveaway in an upright conversion.

@dlearl476 This is the answer you're looking for, even though Gordon and Greg are doubtful. Just ignore, you CAN tell from the OP picture.

The type1 fuel pump mounted on top of the case between the distributor and the alternator right by the pulley. This we all know and have seen a zillion times with either a pump or block-off plate.

The type4 fuel pump was on the pulley end of the engine case but over by the number 4 cylinder, on the OTHER side of the distributor.

You are looking up, as type4 exhaust exits the bottom of the head. You can just see the #4 pushrod tube at the bottom of the picture.

I have that same engine from Greg. I is a stump puller, and quick off the line.

@dlearl476 posted:

Dumb question: How do you tell a T1 and T-IV apart from pictures? I understand a T-IV is flat in its normal environment, but in a Speedster/Spyder they’d have the upright fan kit.

Is it the fuel pump block off? Oil filler?

You can tell by the intake manifolds and alternator stand.

@Gordon Nichols posted:

This was kind-of an issue when I got my Massachusetts replica registration, because the engine supposedly has to be what was in a ‘57 Porsche Speedster, a 1,600cc.  Unless you tear down and measure the engine internals, how you evah gonnah know what it is from the outside??

Yeah, Gordon, I have the same issue. The CA registration plate lists “1600cc” but the PO told me it has a “CB Perf 2.0L”. I haven’t waded into it past the rockers (which definitely are aftermarket) so I have no way of knowing. I tried to contact CB but they don’t keep records, or at least they didn’t.

Well, the good news on that is that the CHP or inspection station guys can’t tell, either, so AFA they know......  It’s a 1,600cc!

So true. Not that it matters to me. As a “40+ year old vehicle” it’s emissions/dot exempt.

is it true that each your I will  need to get the engine tuned?

I’m getting the same setup as Carlos. Can you replace the carbs with fuel injection?

That depends:  If you have a contact points ignition, then yes, a tune-up every year is prudent, checking points gap (re-burnishing the point contacts if you have a points file) and new spark plugs every 12,000 miles or so.

If you have an electronic ignition then you skip the points part forever and just replace the plugs every 12,000 miles

In addition, you should change the oil and check the pushrod to rocker arm clearance every 3,000 miles.

Much of this is spelled out in a Bentley's VW Service Manual for around 1970 or so.  If you don't have one, you can find them on Amazon or eBay and well worth the money.

Any weird things in your engine (like steel pushrods causing a change in adjustment) we can certainly coach you through adjusting, just ask.

And @MikeM you can certainly upgrade from carburetors to fuel injection, but doing some research on here will show that only two or three people on here have done that.  There is an EFI kit from CB Performance out there to install on your engine and "Bingo!", you've got fuel injection, but I don't know anyone running one.  Two people on here (Danny P and Michael Pickett) have gone the EFI route on air cooled engines and that's it for now.  Search around on the site and you'll see what they did.

In addition to the above, I include removing and cleaning (blowing out the passages) of my Dellortos and cleaning my fuel filters as part of my annual tuneup.

For those of us clinging to air cooled technology, this ritual is part of the joy of ownership. If you’re not mechanically inclined, this service is ~$200 where I live.

i am in to a lot of learning and paying for the it ahhah

@dlearl476 posted:

I understand the difference between a T1 and a T-IV. I was asking how you tell the difference from the above photo.

The intake manifolds on a T4 are more H shaped, rather than the V shape you see on a T1: the ports into the heads are spread apart more.

So:

Instead of:

Also the exhaust comes out on the bottom instead of the sides so that's a tell if you can see the pipes.

If your car is well-tuned, with good ignition and carbs running well with good filtration, you shouldn't have any problems. Put Stabil in the tank in the fall. Put the car on a battery maintainer. Adjust the valves once a year and change the oil. That's about it.

I never had to touch my carbs, no taking the tops off needed.

I see that whomever made those T-4 intake manifolds has been to the Al Blanchett "School of Automotive Parts Lightening and Exotic Peruvian Pan Pipes".  

You, too, can turn your car into rolling art and be the envy of your friends.....

There are two different bolt patterns(4 bolt and 3 bolt), so the manifolds fit either style of type4 head. The three holes are always cast in-between the runners on every manifold I've ever seen.

For an oil change -> what is the best oil to use for this engine?

For the fuel ->what is the best Gasoline octane grade for this? 87 89 91?

im gonna get me a cold one

@Carlos P posted:

For an oil change -> what is the best oil to use for this engine?

For the fuel ->what is the best Gasoline octane grade for this? 87 89 91?

Carlos, if you truly want to understand the madness, ask a question like "what is the best oil..." EVERYBODY has an opinion and it's slightly different than anyone else. Hundreds, nay thousands of posts have been made on this topic.

I'm willing to give you a short answer and a couple of links to a more complete discussion of the factors to consider. Just remember we're talking religion here.

My opinion if you aren't a super wrench and don't have an oil pressure gauge or oil filter added to the car:

- Use a known brand of 20-50 weight multigrade oil

- Change it every 3000 miles

- Buy regular oil or synthetic. Either one works well but regular is cheaper

- If you are feeling particularly over cautious, add a little bit of zinc oil additive at every oil change

There, simple isn't it.

By the way, the best gasoline grade depends on whether your car knocks or pings under acceleration or going up a hill. If you hear that pinging, knocking, chatter while the engine is under load, go up a grade in gas. 

As promised, here's the tip of the iceberg should you want to understand the oil question in more detail:

http://vw-resource.com/engine_oil.html

http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

Excuse me while I go find my asbestos leisure suit...

I’ll start the discussion with my old adage:

”Clean oil is better than dirty oil, dirty oil is better than no oil.”

Holy Wars!

Before I retired, I spent 40 years working in universities and the last 30 years in the IT side of business. I ran across many, many obstreperous faculty members who had OPINIONS on how we should provide service.

In frustration at one point, I asked a tenured Professor of Biostatistics why every little point had to be argued until the cows came home (not in so many words). He replied "Michael, it is because the stakes are so small."

Yes, sometimes I feel like I'm right back at home at the university

thank you all for the responses. I am just a newbie starting to learn this all.

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W50 contains needed Zinc and is readily available at Walmart.  Brad Penn is another good oil available from performance shop or online.

If you don't drive a lot and your car sits with gas in it, look around for non-ethanol gas.  It has a long sitting life (ethanol gas go bad in as short as 30 days!)  Often available near farm or marinas.

@Carlos P posted:

thank you all for the responses. I am just a newbie starting to learn this all.

All of us have been there. There are no dumb questions.

@WOLFGANG posted:

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W50 contains needed Zinc and is readily available at Walmart.  Brad Penn is another good oil available from performance shop or online.

If you don't drive a lot and your car sits with gas in it, look around for non-ethanol gas.  It has a long sitting life (ethanol gas go bad in as short as 30 days!)  Often available near farm or marinas.

Great advice. I've been running the Valvoline VR1 20W50 for the last couple of years and it works well where I live.

Me too