Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

For some reason, the one with the short non-supported drive is preferred.  Assume the internal starter bearing is stronger.  Its from the semi-auto trans Type 1.  The longer shaft relies on a good lubricated bushing in the transaxle.

 

There are kits and online instructions for inexpensively rebuilding your old OEM starter too.

 

Recall reading that the 914/411/412 starter (unsupported type) fits perfectly and is more powerful but haven't checked the part numbers or specs.

Last edited by WOLFGANG
Originally Posted by WOLFGANG - '13 CMC FWB, FL:

For some reason, the one with the short non-supported drive is preferred.  Assume the internal starter bearing is stronger.  Its from the semi-auto trans Type 1.  The longer shaft relies on a good lubricated bushing in the transaxle.

 

There are kits and online instructions for inexpensively rebuilding your old OEM starter too.

 

Recall reading that the 914/411/412 starter (unsupported type) fits perfectly and is more powerful but haven't checked the part numbers or specs.

Your terminology is a bit confusing. The VW semi-auto starter (Bosch SR17) is self supporting, not unsupported. Parts and forum searches probably won't get you very far if you call it unsupported. I think the vw semi-auto starter is the same one they use in the 914, so no need to go searching out the porsche parts.

 

There's also those higher torque, self supported IMI starters you can find at many of the vw parts suppliers. Pricy, but can be nice if you've got a large displacement, high compression engine. But certainly not a necessity considering the semi-auto starter is already higher torque than the stock style. Another benefit of the self supporting starters, besides the higher torque, is you don't have to mess with removing and replacing the bushing in the trans or getting the wrong year bushing for the parts combo.

Last edited by justinh

I was doing an oil change on "Son of Mighty Powerstroke", my diesel pickup, today, (no, I don't use that "Brad Penn" stuff in my truck - I get the cheapest Rotella oil I can find at Walmart for the 20 quarts it takes to fill it) and I peeked up at the starter in amongst all that plumbing and exhaust stuff.

 

HOLY CARP!!!!!!

 

That damn thing is bigger than my older Jack Russell!.....And he's ten!!

 

If I ever have to change it, it'll take two men, a Boy and several Mexicans to get that thing out of there!! Not to mention costing close to a Grand.  At Pep Boys.

 

You guys should be happy all you're dealing with are VW's and Suby's.....

When I originally installed my 2,110 engine, the starter had to really work hard to turn it over enough to start it (it was an original 1969 starter with a bazillion miles on it).  I pulled it and took it to an automotive electrical shop and they rebuilt it for me.  I told them what it was and what it was going into and when I got it back it whipped that 2,110 over, no problem.  Been fine for 14 years, now.  It was the version that has a shaft going into the tranny case with a bushing in the case.  The rebuild shop even gave me a new tranny case bushing and told me to use an EZ-Out to get the old bushing out.

I use the IMI 101 on my car, works great,paid 155 from one of the samba venders,I still see it for around that price smetimes. be ware of the knock offs that look like the IMI 101,that sell for $120 or around that.there pure junk, as in came straight out of a junk yard and painted, new bendix&adaptor that says high performance usa on the end with the gear(io the new vw addaptor) they dont rebuild the starter just clean,paint,sell. I have no exp with the auto stick starter.most car starters dont have a bearing out on the end like vw does, they dont need it, but vw cheeped out and used a small bushing out there.

Hey guys, I am an IMI guy myslef, HOWEVER I had to send 7 of them back a few weeks ago because ALL of them skipped intermittently (different cars, swapped car for car AND also tested off of a brand new battery wired directly to the starter just to eliminate possible wiring issues).

There are a few other reports of this on Rennlist recenly.

At this time IMI does not have an answer but is looking at possible causes.

Finally, and just to make sure I am not crazy, I pulled the IMI off of my own trans (2-3 year old IMI unit) and it worked flawlessly on several of the cars that had skipping issues.

Again, I LOVE their starter and to this point I have had little to no issues with them so I hope it is something simple and corrected quickly and I'll be happy to report back when I hear more.

what is it you call skipping? most of the time when I hear somebody referr to it skipping it's a week cylinder(low comp,or valves tighter than others.or 1 cylinder firing  befor the others but it cant pull the entire motor till the others have fuel&fire on thier, so it sounds like skiping a cylinder)

  or are you refering to the starte gear not engauging the flywheel, or bendix sliping?

Originally Posted by ALB:
Originally Posted by Ron O:

I found that the stock starter on my 2276 just wasn't cutting it, so I bought one of these.  I bought it when they had their 15% off sale a while back.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...uctCode=ACC-C10-5767

Those are also significantly lighter than a VW starter, are they not, Ron?

I don't know.  I'm having my mechanic, who is changing my 3.88 for a 3.44, also change the starter.

 I dont know how good or how strong the compufire starter is over the IMI strter. the compufire looks to be a planatary grear reduction based off the newer gm style starters, where as the imi is based off a nippondenso, used on oh somany cars these days from tiodie to dodge and many inbetween.Ive seen more wadded up gm planatary type startres than nipon gear reduction units in the oe world. I did take a few dead gm planatary starters and build one for my 454 high comp chevy truck about15 years ago, it might still be on there. as far as weight of the starter what diff does it make?eat your wheeties.

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×