Whitecloud rides again

Glad to hear it, Will! It should rev to 55-5700 (or so) rpm with power, have tons of bottom end/lower midrange, be very efficient at cruising rpms and just generally be a lot of fun! Which front deflector tins were missing before?  And thank you. _{(see how Will listed all the engine particulars in a new thread without even being asked? Really, it's not that hard!)}

these front deflectors (that's what they're called), this view is the back (toward front of car) of them

here's another shot of them installed (not my engine)

Will......What did Pat have to say about those sled tins ?

Your carb specs are close to mine which are 32mm venturi, 47.5 Idle, 145 main, and 200 AC. My mpg is 29 with a medium dark grey exhaust residue. Plugs are chocolate brown.  It's lean on warm-up but once the temp. is up, the bottom end acceleration is "bracing" and driveability is wonderful. I have the A-1 sidewinder exhaust but I think it's too loud and is annoying after about an hour of stop n go.  My guess is that you will feel a mid to high range power increase by going to the A-1 from the Vintage exhaust system...........Your engine really looks SMART and CRISP ! ......Bruce

Well, once again, congrats, Will.

This time, it's as purty on the inside as the outside.

Curious about the dizzy, though. Is this from your old engine? Where was it sourced? Who did the reconditioning? Points or electronic?

See, ALB isn't the only one who can ask questions.

Mitch, you like the shop-rag dizzy in the photo?

Seriously, it's the same from engine #2 which was rebuilt by Glenn Ring and still uses points.

That engine looks beautiful and ought to make about 130-140 horses at like 5000 rpm and something like 140 ft-lbs at 3200. Very stout. 

Will, thanks.

When you get a chance, some video of the engine running would be cool.

Woohoo! Glad you are back on the road!

@Will Hesch

Will,

The car has been sitting a while so I'd drop in a can of Sea Foam to clean out the fuel tank and system. I would also change the fuel filter to one that filters really small microns. Since my carburetor fire I've been considering getting a fuel filter similar to this: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/...wBlUQ3_JoaAkHQ8P8HAQ

And for a while I'd make it a habit to clean the idle jets every now and then to insure hassle free driving.

Thank Goodness you posted all of those specs, Will.......All Hell would-a broken out, otherwise, right?  Awesome specs, too!   The 019 dizzy is a really good choice - nice curve.

Actually, though, I was wondering more about the seat color and whether you might be considering sheepskin seat covers for those Hot, California days..... 

Will- if one doesn't stop to really look carefully over the motor PIC, one could easily mistaken if for an authentic 356 motor. The internal parts sounds like a great list of long lasting components. Have a great time listening to that motor purr cruising the country roads.  

I had a feeling the lower rear (rear of the car) deflectors was what you meant, Will, but just wanted to be sure. They keep the back sides of the rear cylinders from developing hot spots (and the cylinders wearing out of round faster) so, as are all the sheetmetal pieces, they're important for long life.  Looking good! Al

PS- the only thing it could use now is an svda distributor...

Robert, thanks for the tips, I know all about plugged idle-jets, got schooled this week!

check these filters out:

I built an aluminum tube manifold for the engine so adding another inline filter would be difficult without the above-mentioned AN filters (-6) from Setrab which I'm ordering as soon as I finish typing this.

Ironically, the engine started first tic and idled perfectly when we first started it, but after a couple miles, started running like poop (and you know how that runs)

It was junk in the idle jets. I left the car at Jim's, he took the carbs out, cleaned everything and put it back together. I picked up the car two days later and drove it home 23 miles. Ran in the door ranting about how awesome the engine was and had my wife come outside to hear it...when I tried to start it...it wouldn't. I stomped on the gas pedal, kept running the starter...and finally it started but it was farting, puking, missing...all of the things engine #2 did...

yep, clogged idle jet...again, after 23 miles!

CB Jet Doctors, the allen-head jet-holders are coming this way next week, what a PITA removing and replacing those buggers!

Gordon, the sheepskin seat covers are what most guys in Sacramento run, for that reason, I'm leaving it to Mitch and Terry, Teby and I'll stick with red & white tuck-n-roll.

Al, I'd love to run an SVDA distributor if they could hide the vacuum canister and fit inside a cast-iron Bosch body but the .019 works pretty darn well as is.

Will Hesch posted:

Robert, thanks for the tips, I know all about plugged idle-jets, got schooled this week!

check these filters out:

I built an aluminum tube manifold for the engine so adding another inline filter would be difficult without the above-mentioned AN filters (-6) from Setrab which I'm ordering as soon as I finish typing this.

Ironically, the engine started first tic and idled perfectly when we first started it, but after a couple miles, started running like poop (and you know how that runs)

It was junk in the idle jets. I left the car at Jim's, he took the carbs out, cleaned everything and put it back together. I picked up the car two days later and drove it home 23 miles. Ran in the door ranting about how awesome the engine was and had my wife come outside to hear it...when I tried to start it...it wouldn't. I stomped on the gas pedal, kept running the starter...and finally it started but it was farting, puking, missing...all of the things engine #2 did...

yep, clogged idle jet...again, after 23 miles!

CB Jet Doctors, the allen-head jet-holders are coming this way next week, what a PITA removing and replacing those buggers!

Gordon, the sheepskin seat covers are what most guys in Sacramento run, for that reason, I'm leaving it to Mitch and Terry, Teby and I'll stick with red & white tuck-n-roll.

Al, I'd love to run an SVDA distributor if they could hide the vacuum canister and fit inside a cast-iron Bosch body but the .019 works pretty darn well as is.

 

Very nice Will. Same result, just a different method. Any idea to what microns they will filter? The lowest I've seen is 35 microns which is pretty dang small.

Will, as fashion forward as I am, I just couldn't mar the Speedster's clean interior with sheepskins, so I do what Teby does and dress right for the weather.

This practical solution from the old country protects sensitive areas from the hottest upholstery and is period correct as well.

Mitch, du bist ein Stilmonster

Robert, they claim 250u-thingy's, I can't find out what that is in thousandths so I'll call Setrab in the morning, you'll be the first to know...after me...unless you call first...then I'll be the second to know...

Great to finally hear!

The u-thingy is the symbol for micron - a millionth of a meter, or a thousandth of a millimeter. I think 250 microns is about 10 thousandths of an inch, which, I'm guessing, would catch the kind of crud that ends up blocking idle jets.

So, trying to figure how this would work out, some junk ends up in your gas and gets caught in this filter instead of in your jet. It's either big enough to block the filter, or it's not. If not, more junk will inevitably happen along until eventually the filter is clogged and you get the same kind of symptoms a plugged jet causes.

So, you end up just as stopped by the side of the road, but having to clean this filter instead of the jets - which is probably easier, especially if you mount the filter in a reachable spot and have the wrench with you for undoing the fitting and the carb cleaner for blowing out the filter.

Of course, this assumes that all jet-clogging dirt originates in the fuel. I think Pat Downs claims that most of it gets into the carb through the air jets.

I still think the best approach is to live a clean life and have kind thoughts so that you earn the good Karma that makes @MusbJim 's motor run trouble free.

well...I have all kinds of thoughts regarding clogged jets...

...none of them good...

Idle jets can get clogged by particles in the air or particles in the fuel. On my Dells the idle and main jets are on the top of the carburetor and are flush or just below the plate that the air filter sits on.  Dirt can accumulate on that plate and then make its way into the idle jet. The Jet Doctor, which I have on my Dells, raises the air intake port up about a half inch or so and significantly reduces the chances of getting dirt particles in the idle jet. Solid particulate matter can still be found in the fuel as a result of the car sitting, rust in the tank, bad fuel, etc and so that foreign matter, if not filtered out by the fuel filter, can also end up in the idle jet. Airborne particles happen more often than dirty fuel but reducing the risk all around can't hurt.

Use a fuel filter that captures the smallest microns possible, properly oil your air filters,  use Jet Doctors, keep the area near the idle jets as clean as possible, and make cleaning your idle jets a regular part of your service routine.

@Sacto Mitch

The surface area of a fuel filter is massive in relation to the minuscule size hole in the idle jet so I imagine it'd be a very long time before you clogged your fuel filter to the point your car wouldn't run. IMHO

Driving along the 99 I often see farm equipment kicking up large amounts of dirt in the air and it comes across the freeway. I typically speed up, throw the car in neutral, then turn off the engine and coast through it. Then again I'm a little OCD about stuff like that.

And if I had this engine I would probably be too scared to run it and I would leave it in my living room on display...

I was just thinking....Another way to look at filters is : The dirtier they get, the better they filter out debris until they even filter out the fuel ! Same way with engine air cleaners !......Bruce

Rusty S posted:

Driving along the 99 I often see farm equipment kicking up large amounts of dirt in the air and it comes across the freeway. I typically speed up, throw the car in neutral, then turn off the engine and coast through it. Then again I'm a little OCD about stuff like that.

And if I had this engine I would probably be too scared to run it and I would leave it in my living room on display...

That's one mighty fine looking machine!

Great to hear you're close to getting your ride back on the road, Will! 

Will,

It's always something.

Uhmmmmm :

I just woke up from my nap..   Did I miss something here? 

Tebs

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:

Will,

It's always something.

Stan,  are you ok?  ..................one sentence? 

Teby S posted:

Uhmmmmm :

I just woke up from my nap..   Did I miss something here? 

Tebs

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:

Will,

It's always something.

Stan,  are you ok?  ..................one sentence? 

Well... since you asked: allow me to relate a relevant(ish) tale from back in the day.

It was about 1990 or so, and I was working at the Clinton Nuclear power plant, when blah blah blah blah, and so on, and so forth...

Up above, someone wrote: "Use a fuel filter that captures the smallest microns possible, properly oil your air filters, use Jet Doctors, keep the area near the idle jets as clean as possible, and make cleaning your idle jets a regular part of your service routine."

All good stuff, and you should also include, especially if you have a K&N or similar paper filter with a rubber top and bottom:  

Apply a small (1/8") bead of automotive grease on the mating surfaces of the top and bottom of the filter element, then press it firmly in place so that the grease completes the seal.  That will do a LOT towards keeping the dirt out.  I use an old BBQ marinade injector with the end of the needle cut off and use that to run a nice, neat bead.  

K&N also say that their filters become more effective as they collect dirt, and recommend cleaning them every 50,000 miles - That's once at the end of ownership for a lot of us, or every five years for MUSBJIM......  

OK, Mitch dresses weird, Teby sleeps too much, Stan's tongue-tied and I'm a monkey's uncle!

I purchased an Airtex E8016S electric fuel pump when I was getting engine #2 ready a year ago. It has a fuel filter on the tank-side of the pump which I thought was great. I called Airtex today and found out the micron-count is 300! It will probably keep gravel and small children from passing through the pump but...seriously? The fellow at Airtex said it was stainless steel brillo-pad material, yipes! No wonder Whitecloud's all plugged-up.

The pump works great, it's quiet and according to my fuel-rail gauge, puts out exactly 3 1/4 pounds of pressure, exactly what Weber recommends.

But for filtering, 300 microns is ridiculous (300 microns is .0118, about as thick as a credit card, twice as large as the idle jets I'm running.

So I found this K&N filter, an 81-1000 (cleanable) with -6AN fittings and it's capable of filtering out 25 micron sized pieces of crud (as Mitch so succinctly calls it). 25 microns is the thickness of my (or Troy's) hair, approximately .001. Whatever gets through this filter, will have plenty of shoulder-room to get through my idle jets.

Ordering one today.

@Will Hesch

I didn't see that the part you initially talked about was 250 microns. Yeah, that's not very much. Micron ratings are like golf scores. The lower the number, the better.

The K&N thing looks pretty good. How goes the "cleanable" part?? I'll have to look that up.

Robert M posted:

@Will Hesch

Micron ratings are like golf scores. The lower the number, the better.

... assuming you can still flow enough fuel. 

Here's one for $34 that flows 95 gph that filters to 40 microns Performance Dynamics

These folks are cool, they ship AN fittings, hose, good stuff for cheap!

AFAIK the filter on fuel pumps is designed to be just good enough so that nothing that gets past it will hurt the pump. It's not meant to substitute for your real fuel filter.

Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:

Robert M posted:

@Will Hesch

Micron ratings are like golf scores. The lower the number, the better.

... assuming you can still flow enough fuel. 

Kinda what I was getting at. That filter within the AN- fitting looks really tiny. It doesn't look like it would take much to clog the whole thing up. This is basically the problem with idle jets themselves.

Any standalone inline fuel filter has a much larger surface area, so could absorb a lot more crud before impeding flow. Maybe that's why the AN- fitting filter allows a relatively coarse 250 microns.

And Will, another thought. If your just-cleared idle jets are clogged again after just a few miles, maybe the carb float bowls need to be checked for dirt? And if they are dirty on a new engine, maybe the dirt's coming from somewhere else - tank, suspect fuel lines, etc?

Got one of these old school sediment bowl filters with my Spyder stash. I think it's period-correct (or anyway I've seen a picture of a legit Spyder with one of these hanging on the firewall. Looks kewl. 

No idea what the micron filtration rating is but figure it couldn't hurt to run one. Any other opinions?

(what's that just left of the voltage regulator?)

I've always liked that look...can't hurt, just put another under the tank and keep an eye on it.

@edsnova

No, no, no- if you put that glass globe in your car, you're inviting it to burn to the ground just out of spite. Commies put those globes on their Ladas. The interweb ninnies will never abide it. Think of the children. 

If for some reason you DO decide that you hate your car and America both, go ahead and put it in. We'll know who's side you're really on.

Oh, I can feel the hot hate.