Who builds and tunes the JPS Subaru motors?

G-man,

You may need to contact JPS to find out which type of Subi engine you have (2.0, 2.5, WRX, Sti) as well as the source, i.e., US or JDM.  Regarding a tuner in your area, Google "Georgia Subaru tuners" or something similar to find a shop in your area.

Be aware that you will need a shop that knows/works on Subarus AND conversions.  You may find a shop that repairs Subarus, but won't work on your car, since it's not a Subaru platform.  Don't be discouraged.  Subi tuners are used to alternative platforms, such as ours.  Another valuable source is local car/hot rod clubs.  Best of luck and please keep the group informed.  Shared knowledge is a valuable commodity.

Outfront Motorsports in Buena park california

owner is john

Outfront built my 230 hp EJ25.  Its a JDM with new shortblock (so it actually has a legal serial number to license in USA if your state checks on those things).  Great engine.  I've got a custom ECU for the ported heads, nicer cams etc.  Needs a little more warm up time but starts every time and once its up to about 150 F its perfect.  John is a super nice guy.  Very professional.

All of the break in info is on the Outfront web site.  But I tend to cheat every once in a while.

Very cool, Phil. What brand ECU is it again? They had tried a new one, but ended up going back to the previous brand as I recall.

My car WAS the first to have the Engine Management Systems EM140.  But after months of trying and multiple trips back to Outfront I told John to use the old Stinger 4 unit.  I told myself before this build I wasn't going to be the guinea pig.  The Stinger takes a while to warm up but after 150 degrees its fine.  Never cuts out while its warming up but does cut out sometimes if I drive it when its cold.  The Stinger 4 has been discontinued for John's applications so I guess he'll have to figure out the EM140.  Just not on my time or dime anymore.  He's a really smart guy.  I'm confident he'll make it work.

Outfront recommendations

 Recommended break in should be 3000 miles driven under normal conditions, do not use synthetic oils during break-in, use good quality multigrade oils such as Motul 10/40 break-in oil,  Valvoline or Castrol. We recommend an oil change with filter at 100, 500 and 1000, 2000, and 3000 miles. At 3000 miles you can switch to synthetic oils if you choose to. For the first 500 – 1000 miles try to avoid long periods of time at the same RPM such as freeway driving at 3500 RPM for 30 minutes. You should vary through the RPM range. Stock boost is fine but you should stay away from high boost/high load situations. 

Good info, 

Thanks  

Whoa. FIVE oil changes in the first 3000 miles? Is that normal for a rebuilt engine?

Seems a bit much to me as well.  Maybe that is their race engine specs.  

I would think at 500miles, then 3000miles would be fine.  my 2¢

I have ALWAYS used their 100-500-1000-2000-3000 process on my engines.

Lots of gook (that's an old mechanic's term for microscopic metal particles) gets sloughed off inside the engine in the first 3,000 miles, contaminating the oil, so it's best to keep changing it and the filter.

After 3K miles, everything should be worked in and, even though they say you can then go to a full synthetic, I personally would stay with single visc oil, like 30 or 40 weight for the remainder of the season to make sure the rings are nicely seated in the bore, going to synthetic (if you wish) the next season.  That insures that everything is seated in nicely.  A full synthetic oil will actually prevent or greatly slow the wear-in process of rings to cylinder and sometimes even glaze the cylinder walls.  When they don't wear in properly they tend to eat a lot of oil until you get in there to deglaze them.

Besides, oil is cheap.  A burnt-out engine is not.

As with many automotive subjects, the literature contains mutually contradictory information.  The posts above reflect the diversity of opinion by knowledgeable gear heads.  Subaru recommends that you change the oil in a new engine at 1000 miles, period.  They even fill new engines with synthetic oil, a fact that makes most of us shake their heads.  After that first 1000 miles, 6000 mile oil changes are recommended.

Many of us learned about oil change intervals, dino oil, varying engine load, only 4000 rpm for the first 2-3000 miles, etc., etc., prior to the modern metallurgy on piston rings, cylinder wall finish, cross hatching, honing, etc.

Some talented engine builders go so far as to insist you can break in a new/rebuilt Subi engine on the dyno by honking on it right after the build.  At the end of the 1-hour dyno, the engine is broken in. 

Each owner should do his own research and proceed with the method that makes them comfortable.  No matter what method you choose for break in and oil changes, you'll be able to support your position by information posted somewhere online. 

Exactly, Jim. I just got lined up with a couple of good Soob tuner shops in Ottawa and they both like my homebuilt engine. On their recommendation I now run Motul 10-60 full synthetic in my well broken in 25/22 engine. I've had many "experts" give advice on what oil to use and these guys seem to have a good reputation among the local competitive Soob crowd. The Motul is expensive but I drink cheap beer. It works for me. 

Interesting, Lachute Performance who build race engines use a full synthetic 5w40 in their race engines they build like700hp STI's full turbos etc. 

You might want to talk to those guys they solved a lot of my issues and can custom make any header system etc. etc.  It might be worth a shot.   BTW they race all the time, build and ship engines all over north america so they know what they are doing. 

IaM-Ray posted:

Interesting, Lachute Performance who build race engines use a full synthetic 5w40 in their race engines they build like700hp STI's full turbos etc. 

You might want to talk to those guys they solved a lot of my issues and can custom make any header system etc. etc.  It might be worth a shot.   BTW they race all the time, build and ship engines all over north america so they know what they are doing. 

Yup, and I could Ray but I won't. Your car and my car are in different leagues altogether and I just won't take time to mess with it. This could be debated for years and no conclusion come of it. I know of Lachute Performance and they know their stuff guaranteed. You' ve probably got more invested in your headers than I've got in my engine and I'm ok with that. Thanks anyway. 

My point was not that you should go, rather, maybe you should or wanted to consider what or why they recommend 5w40, calling might give you the answer.   Or If you desire I could ask for you.

We have different cars yes, but it's all good.

I don't plan on changing my oil as much as Outfront recommends.  My car ran good old non-synthetic  oil for first 150 miles which included extensive time on the dyno trying to figure out the first ECU installed before going back to the Stinger ECU.  At 150 miles it was changed to synthetic Rotella T6.  I'm going to change it again at 1000 and again at 3000.  Then at 3000 mile intervals.  Just my own plan.  But sounds reasonable.