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I've finally had a chance to come up for air and get y'all an update on my Suby motor Vintage Pre-A Coupe project.

On the face of it putting a Suby motor in a coupe shouldn't be any harder than putting one in a speedster: same chassis, same transaxle, similar body. The key word there is similar. There is one difference that seems small, but turns out to be a big deal. Below is a picture of the interior of an unfinished speedster. Note the back of the rear seat area. It's well in front of the engine compartment firewall. You speedster owners now that gives you an area of empty space over the transmission in between those two walls.

Now take look at the picture of the interior of an unfinished coupe below.

The back of the rear seat area is much farther back and it IS the firewall of the engine compartment! More interior space is nice, but it turns out Greg uses that empty area on a speedster to run an air intake hose to the subaru intake manifold. Like this:

When you put the motor in a coupe engine compartment it looks like this:

So now what.  Well there's some good news. The intake manifold is symmetrical. It can be unbolted and turned around. But that means the alternator needs to find a new home. The alternator is front and center on all subarus. With much futzing around (and I imagine a certain amount of cursing) the alternator was moved to what is the normal AC location to the viewers right. Then the manifold reversed, and its plumbing redone so that a reasonable air cleaner and intake could be installed. But we're not done yet...

I was planning on having AC in the coupe. But now the alternator is taking up the compressor's spot. So what do we do about that? The compressor can't be moved to the other side, because part of the air intake and the cooling system fill pipe are there. There's no room for it.

That means it's time for another first! Electric AC!

At first that seemed like a bridge to far, but after a little thought it turns out that the plumbing is actually easier. Short hose runs are possible (not 22 feet long) with everything right close together in the frunk. Even the wiring will be slightly shorter. It should even be more efficient at cooling if I understand what Stan was saying about constant compressor speeds. I wouldn't be surpised if at some point that's what winds up in any replica that needs AC. It'll be cost dependent, but mechanically it makes a lot of sense.

In other news Greg tells me they've abandoned using electric window lifts for the side windows. They've gone back to good old crank windows. This actually makes me really happy. Interesting side note; they source old VW bug units and rebuild them. Turns out the new ones are junk. Surprise!

The coupe I posted pics of last week is done and I'm next in line for completion. The headliner is in, all the engine mods are done. I think the interior is done and just waiting on the windows going in. That makes it sound like it's really close, but there's a lot still to do. I've given Greg enough to make him really hate me, but he's been great about taking each challenge as it comes and finding a way to do it. Some of you are really gonna like this thing, some are gonna like parts of it, some are already rolling their eyes! Greg has let me do me and it's pretty exciting to be getting this close to driving it!

This will be the first, and according to Greg the LAST, Subaru Pre-A coupe.

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It’s going to be epic but a nice T4 would have been much easier. I guess the compromise with the T4 is that AC is easy but heat is a problem. Custom heat exchangers would be challenging. That’s what I’m doing. AC with no heat. I rarely use heat and even in the winter I tend to use the AC to defrost. I’ll also have role up Conv D windows. But don’t get me wrong that coupe is going to be amazing.

@JMM (Michael) do a search for STi rotated intake.  Although you are not an STi, fitment of the NA intake is similar.  I've helped some local kids do this on their STi's (years ago) and based on that experience I don't see why it could not be done on an NA motor.  Due to our rear shelf and extra room, we do not need to do this on a Beck, so I haven't done it to an NA motor personally, but again I can't see why it couldn't be done.  The adjuster bracket gets milled to allow it to drop lower.  The bottom of the alternator casting gets milled by about 1/2" to allow it to utilize the extra adjustment, and then you need a shorter belt.  All of this allows the alternator to sit under the TB and retain the factory AC compressor.

OR just make a false wall in the back of the coupe, or a "bubble" by extending the upper angle forward allowing enough space for the intake.

As you mention, electric AC is another route you can take and I'll be watching for feedback on that.  I've had a dozen clients request it in a 904 and ALL of them have backed out of it before the build, based on reviews they've read or speaking with Vintage Air about their tests on the electric AC units available.  

Yes, Carey, the intake reversal was pretty straight forward. Even though the alternator could be kept in the middle with a bit of machining, it was also pretty easy to move to the right. We actually had John at OutFront do all of that because he's done it a lot. I preferred going this route because I didn't want to mess with the interior even though that's not technically difficult either.

I'll be happy to report back on my experience with the AC once I have some. Electric AC is what my commuter toaster Prius runs (along with every BEV and my house). It works amazingly well (though in the case of the Prius it was engineered by Toyota 15 years ago). I also don't think it'll be stressed too much on the coupe. It's a pretty snug interior, so we're not talking about a large area to cool or heat. I have high hopes, but that's my natural approach to most things in life, so take it with a grain of salt!

I'll be happy to report back on my experience with the AC once I have some. Electric AC is what my commuter toaster Prius runs (along with every BEV and my house). It works amazingly well (though in the case of the Prius it was engineered by Toyota 15 years ago). I also don't think it'll be stressed too much on the coupe. It's a pretty snug interior, so we're not talking about a large area to cool or heat. I have high hopes, but that's my natural approach to most things in life, so take it with a grain of salt!

I really do look forward to the report as well as some real world experience living with it.  Like I mentioned, it has been a requested items for years now, and then for whatever reason it's never gone the full distance...  I've done a lot of research on them, spoken with several manufacturers, but never had the chance to "play" with it first hand.

I've only recently found the WOSP 175A alternator that is supposed to fit Subaru, I assume that is what you used to combat the added "tax" of the electric AC to the system, or is there another way?  Any upgrade to the wiring because of that?  

I know the 911 based electric AC systems show a minimum output requirement (for just the AC) of 70A at idle, and the biggest stock 911 alternator is quite shy of that around 40A at idle.  The Subaru stock alternator was even a little less than that at idle, and didn't have great enough output until over 2500 RPM, meaning the smart ECU simply shuts down the electric AC under 2500 RPM.  When I first started researching these systems I figured it would be somewhat "simple" because so many EV's and aircraft use similar, but it was anything but simple.  ECU's that need tuned, and huge power demand increases seemed like the tip of the iceberg...  Looks like the WOSP addresses a LOT of that.

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