I have CB discs and dropped spindles. Front axle height is off by two inches from stock, the beam has been narrowed by three inches on each side and the calipers have to be removed to be bled. The Hoopty pulls to the left on hard braking.
Rears are also discs, offering me an e-brake on both sides of the car -- I needed that at the time and I'm still glad I have them, but there's this little problem brewing. See the pictures.
Carey (thank the gods that guy was born) turned me on to a guy -- whose name and number I wrote down somewhere and now can't find, but I think it was Steve something -- who makes an entirely steel rear set of disc brakes. Mine are steel centers and what look like press-fitted aluminum skins, beginning to show a stress separation around the steel center. They're on the ends of some Erco stub axles.
I added the orange paint to keep the steel from oxidizing when they were new. Now I'm using the paint as a reference mark. Note, if you're considering purchasing the CB set, that there's also a small crack forming on the driver's side skin. It hasn't grown any since I first noticed it, and there are five bolts holding firmly from the back side of the rotor into that same skin.
I don't think they're going to fall off, but I think I'll go ahead and replace them sooner or later anyway.
(Hope that wasn't a too-me-specific answer to the original Wide-5 question, but I don't know who else might be having this problem with their CB parts.)
The common advice here is to go with front discs and rear drums, anyway. Four-wheel disc is probably overkill for a normal engine, but there are drumskins out there for the Wide-5 application on the rears.
Carey, if you're reading this, please refresh my memory on that guy's info? I'm still at a loss as to why this is happening:
