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Will Hesch posted:

Robert, what in beer are you allergic to?

My wife's gluten-intolerant so we drink gluten-free beer and have found some great ones, Omission by Widmer Brothers is one which seems to be readily available.

Keep up Will.

VLAD's (real name?) is allergic to beer. I'm a limited beer drinking German/Scott but I love me some ice cold cider.

Anyone ever drank Barley Pop or Road Sodas while driving their Corvair and had the fan belt flip over, start to vibrate the whole car, produce a sound like whistling Dixie thru the high lift dip stick tag and the four speed horn button wouldn't correct the problem with the emergency reverse idler doing it's job on the dork pedal under the inch about ??.....Bruce  (With too much Cranberry juice, vodka, lime, and war movies all day today) Later I'll get my murds wixed up too !!!

bt posted:

Vlad if you wish to get rid of the Covair engine, LMK.

 

Bryan

The engine seems to run really good, and I have the build receipts for it, so I think I'm going to keep it with the car for now.  I am going to order the 12.5 gal tank since the corvair engine will most likely drink a little more fuel.  It's only a single barrel car though...

WOLFGANG posted:

Instead of an Angry Orchard cider bottle - Detroit Iron calls for one of the new Budweiser red aluminum can "bottles" to encase a fuel filter (I know they are now a Dutch company that wants to ditch the Clydesdales!).  If gas tank is kaput,  go for a new larger capacity tank (12.5 gal) to increase range and weight in nose.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...uctCode=ACC-C10-2510

 A Corvair engine weighs about 320# so a good 100# more than a T1 (about 220#).

Wolfgang,  Thank you for the suggestion.  I went a head and ordered the 12.5 gal tank.  CPI had a sale for May, so it was about $25 cheaper than ebay

Anyone know where I can get the rear view mirror that attaches to the windshield tension rod.  Everywhere I looked it was about $40-45 with shipping.  Also, the one I have on the windshield now has the little metal square piece glued to the windshield.  Any recommended way to remove it (I don't want to risk cracking the glass).

Getting back to the SPCN thing... I went through this whole process. Your car needs to have at least 7500 miles on it if you are bringing it in out of state. If your car does not have the white SPCN sticker in the door panel then you will need to reapply for one. This is really no big deal just a lot of leg work. Here is a link to DMV instructions:

https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/vr/spcnsreg

Last edited by Rusty S
Tom Blankinship posted:
Contact Carey @ Special Edition www.beckspeedster.com

His new ones are FAR superior to any others.

Are you talking about gas tanks (I didn't see it on his website) or the rear view mirror?  

Also, can anyone comment on the large capacity (12.5gal) tank fitment from CPI?  I was looking in the for sale section and there was a comment about the trimmed down neck.  Do the factory VW tank necks need to be trimmed down.  My leaky one didn't look trimmed down, but who know?

Rusty S posted:

Getting back to the SPCN thing... I went through this whole process. Your car needs to have at least 7500 miles on it if you are bringing it in out of state. If your car does not have the white SPCN sticker in the door panel then you will need to reapply for one. This is really no big deal just a lot of leg work. Here is a link to DMV instructions:

https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/vr/spcnsreg

Thanks Rusty, the car is titled in California, and I live in California, so no plans in registering it out of state.  It had a recorded 12k miles, but all the gauges have since been swapped out by the previous owner (he totally Jerry rigged it, and left the wires (all unlabled) hanging underneath the dash).  The new, electric speedometer shows 0 miles.  I think I will try the SB100 route first

The filler neck on the large capacity tank is already cut down - BUT you need their cap for it to seal.  I have CMC and did NOT have to clearance the inner hood liner - it clears just fine.  I need to figure out a solution for the T125 spare tire which now will not fit (may lower battery 3" or move battery to in front of passengers front tire).  OEM VW tanks (post '67) need to have the filler moved, filled in and cut down - lots of welding on a possibly gas fume filled tank.

WOLFGANG posted:

The filler neck on the large capacity tank is already cut down - BUT you need their cap for it to seal.  I have CMC and did NOT have to clearance the inner hood liner - it clears just fine.  I need to figure out a solution for the T125 spare tire which now will not fit (may lower battery 3" or move battery to in front of passengers front tire).  OEM VW tanks (post '67) need to have the filler moved, filled in and cut down - lots of welding on a possibly gas fume filled tank.

Thanks, I just ordered it and the cap for $156 delivered.  The radiator shop wanted to charge around the same amount to boil and re-seal my old crappy one

Who's first? I need mine braised too. Going to wait till my fuel level drops to a 1/4 tank, hook up the exhaust and lite her up...thanks Bruce, be right back

aircooled posted:

Welding on gas tanks........Hook up a hose to the exhaust pipe of another car idling and feed it into the tank you're about to weld on. The carbon monoxide won't allow any combustion and preheats the tank if you're just going to solder on it. Nice trick, simple, and cheap.....Bruce

 

Last edited by Bill Prout
aircooled posted:

Welding on gas tanks........Hook up a hose to the exhaust pipe of another car idling and feed it into the tank you're about to weld on. The carbon monoxide won't allow any combustion and preheats the tank if you're just going to solder on it. Nice trick, simple, and cheap.....Bruce

Wha... What? I think that is a nice trick for someone who has done it without consequences but I wouldn't recommend that method to anyone.

Remove the tank, completely empty and dry it out first is the safest route.

I can hear Donna now... it may be the only time I would ever hear her use a bad word if I tried a stunt like that!

OK...My suggestion was too succinct. In the interest of safety I will expand this.

Yes, definitely remove the tank and gas and clean it inside thoroughly ! Hot soapy water works pretty well. Steam cleaning is better. Even after that I would never just start welding on that tank...Never. If it can be soldered with an electric soldering iron that reduces the risk of an explosion. An open flame or spark is all it takes to have a disaster. Gas tanks have residue that sticks to the inside and even after thoroughly cleaning them, gas fumes will still be present in that residue and in the seams of the tank. If there is air in there, all that is needed is an ignition source and boom.  So, as an added and necessary safety measure, something has to replace that air in the tank to prevent an explosion. Some mention CO2 and other things. They will all work, including exhaust fumes. Even water. Yup, even water if the repair is around the filler neck. Years ago during my apprenticeship I repaired lots of tanks and I'm still here due to religiously following safety procedures.  Rusty and Bill...thanks for calling me on this. I forgot that all who reads this may not know just how dangerous and meticulous gas tank repairs are. It's better to take it to someone who does repairs like this all the time.

Gas Fumes....A fireman once demonstrated this to a room full of people. He took an eyedropper and put one drop of Gas on a dinner plate. Within five minutes everyone in the room could smell it...............Bruce

 

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