Windshield install. questions

The stainless strip across the cowl was previously installed. The holes for the screws thru the stainless channel were previously drilled, but they were not tapped for 10-24 thread as suggested in the CMC instructions; instead they are clearanced for this size.

Any reason I can't ream the two holes in each support for #12-24 and tap the stainless chanel for this size screw? I guess only a couple of the screw threads actually penatrate the channel before putting pressure on the rubber channel and edge of the glass.

Should the heavy black rubber strip for the bottom of the glass be glued to the glass before or after it is placed over the stainless cowl strip?

Anyone in northern NJ do this before and care to lend a hand for an hour or so?

Brian, If there is enough space in the crossection for 12-24 fasteners, I would say go for it. HOWEVER do not let the edge or surface of the glass come in contact with ANYTHING other than the rubber gasket! I would soap the gasket well prior to putting it on the glass and driving it into the metal molding. When assy. is finished rinse away soap , let dry for a couple of daya then caulk with "DAP ALEX PLUS" "CLEAR". Home Depot carrys it. It's water soluable and v v easy to clean up. Once dry however it is very elastic and nearly invis. Caulk all seams, joints and fisures.
The glass will take a lot of abuse as long as you don't try to bend it or try to force it around a foreign or sharp or hard object.

The #12 screws are going to be too large.
I had a windshield frame that had stripped screw holes from a previous owner. I decided to re-use the 10-24's and used a super thin nut on the back side of the frame.
When the screws are tightened, it pulls the windshield frame away for the glass a bit and creates enough space there for the nut.
To do this, you'll need to assemble the frame and the posts as a unit with the screw flush with the nut. Do not use Loc Tite etc. in case the windshield needs to be replaced at a later time, I use a dab of silicone on the screw threads.
The upper rubber needs to be already on the glass then slide the frame and posts dow over the glass as an assembled unit. I know this sounds off the wall but it can be done. ~Alan

Tom, Alan; thank you. Actually, yesterday I spent some time shaving down (4) 10-24 nuts to about 1/16" thickness. I think when I initially screw the post pieces to the channel, I may carefully epoxy or silicone the nuts to the inside of the channel so that the I can do the get the assembled windshield in place without the post pieces attached.

The two post pieces were made of some kind of white metal and originally flash chromed. They were pitted, and I couldn't see rechroming, so I'm having them powder coated to match the car color. I hope to pick them up late today or tomorrow.

Brian, for what's it's worth ; the lower windshield moulding on my IM was riveted to the cowl with 3/16 in pop rivets from the top side. Been on there twenty two years , no problems.