I have a question for you guys on a windshield I bought from Vintage Speedster Parts, it appears to be an inch or so shorter (lengthwise) then the old cracked one is that going to be a problem when I go to install it? I also think I got the wrong upper rubber seal, which I ordered a new upper and lower rubber from Stoddert, it appears to be different. The car I purchased is a 1956 Porsche Speedster Replica made by Classic Motor Carriages (picture attached) and I've never done one of these before. I'm finding that doing the complete windshield install including the base that rivets to the car and the big rubber bottom piece is a big pain in the a**. Is there some trick to it or a video or something that can help me? I'm very good at figuring stuff out but this ones got me stumped, I'm at a loss and could really use some help, does anyone have any ideas for me? I would really appreciate any help you can offer, thank you.
Replies sorted oldest to newest
I have never seen a shorter length speedster windshield... all are the same . When obtaining windshield assembly parts they should all be purchased from the same Vendor as there a can be variables. i.e. a couple of times I have had windshield posts that the inner opening was not wide enough to accept a windshield frame diameter and I had to mill it open .
"lengthwise" is width - pillar to pillar? Or do you mean height - top to bottom? The 2nd photo looks like it's correct width (unless far side is off). There are speedster windshields (short) and the taller cabriolet (windup window) windshields. The windup windows were a rare CMC option. Do you have a car with side curtains or the windup windows?
The Stoddard rubber pieces are for a real Speedster (OEM) so I would suspect they could be an issue.
PIA - yeah and then the pucker factor threat of tightening one turn too many and ordering another windshield.
Attachments
If you become a premium member there is a great article (in the resources section) written by Gordon Nichols that explains how he installed windshields using Alan Merklin's method. That's what I followed when installing mine.
"Welcome To The Madness" known as replica ownership!
I'm digging on your color combo; grey body and blacked-out trim, windshield posts, and those Mini-Lite wheels are a great compliment to them both.
On my CMC I put the bottom rubber behind the aluminum angle instead of putting the angle in the slot on the bottom of the rubber.
Yes, welcome and nice colour choices.
@Butch McNay, I just noticed the hatch in the back. What do you have behind it? Is the edge framed with something? How do you latch the top?
I have been thinking of doing something like this if I put a gas heater above the transmission.
"Hatch" storage, Easy tool storage etc. can be done using a shallow rectangular cake pan, cut an opening under the rear seat cushion to size, tap the rolled edges of the pan flat, spray bed liner on the underside of the bad to deaden noise. Run a bead of caulk or seam sealer around the underside edge of the pan and fasten that to the fiberglass with a few pop rivets. Line the bottom of the pan with felt or thin rubber matting etc. Lastly fasten the seat base cushion in place with Velcro.