OK, let's tackle the easier leak first;
DE-LEAKING THE TOP:
Release the tensioners at the bottom of the bows and remove the windshield header and simply fold it back onto the top between the bows.
Remove the weatherstripping from the "U" channel that fits over the windshield frame and replace it with a new piece. I used "Frost King" rubber weatherstrip from the Home Depot. Get a piece that's 3/4" wide and 7/16" thick. Cut a length an inch or two longer than what you'll need, and remove the paper backing. One side has adhesive and the other side doesn't. Carefully place the adhesive side down into the bottom of the "U" channel, starting at one end and centering it into the channel. Continue to gently push it down into the channel all the way across, and then cut it to match the end of the channel. Go back over it a couple of times, pushing it down into the channel to make sure it sticks all the way across.
I found that, on my CMC, I needed just a bit more weatherstrip from the latches to the outside ends of the "U" channel to completely seal that area. I ran a piece of 3/4" by 5/16" Frost King weatherstrip on top of what you just installed from the outside edge of the latch to the end of the "U" channel on both sides, and that made everything "sit" right onto the windshield frame AND it completely sealed out both water and air.
On to the widshield bottom:
First, determine if the leak is between the rubber gasket and the glass, or between the lower frame and the body:
If it's between the frame and body, then you've two options to choose from: (1.) run a small, 3/16" bead of clear silicon caulk along the outside of the bottom windshield frame where it intersects with the body. Unfortunately, if you have a darker body color, this may not look as good as you may want it, so you may choose to move on to option (2):
Completely remove the windshield and frame. Run a 3/8" bead of clear silicon caulk all the way along the middle of the bottom frame, between the frame and the rubber weatherstrip.
Allow the caulk to set up for 5 minutes or so, such that it's just starting to firm up, but is still pliable.
Replace the gasket and windshield and tighten the corner hold-down nuts finger tight plus 1/4 turn, NO MORE.
If you determine that the leak is between the glass and the rubber gasket, you may opt to add a bead of clear caulk inside the lower rubber gasket and then press the windshield back into the rubber, but look closely to make sure that the rubber gasket is leaking between it and the glass before you do this. 9 times out of 10 it'll be leaking underneath the rubber gasket instead.
Good luck!
Gordon
